Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Implement Alley Discussion Forum

OK , another plow question

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Randy-IA

10-16-2005 19:06:37




Report to Moderator

Hi , Awright , everyone here convinced me I paid too much ( maybe ) for this 560 Oliver plow :-( , but on my behalf , around here , at most of the auction's I've been to the larger the plow the less it goes for , ie; 6x? $300 , 2x? $700 .
Now I'd like you to tell me some things about it if you have some experience in the past or present with one if you would . I've alway's been under the impression that Oliver plows were very good plows and pulled easy . Is this one an auto reset or manual ? It has two spring's under the beam and over each bottom to help bring it back down after it trip's but you need to back up to reset it . I guess that the ones with the big overhead spring's will pull the bottom back down without backing up ?

Now I need to find out how to set one up to use with my tractor . Am I going to have to move the wheels ? And how do you start the first furrow , towards the field or the fence ? Since the first furrow is on land do you have to reset the plow and tractor after you get the tire in the furrow ? Back and forth accross the field or around it ? Really , I don't know ! I've never seen any plowing done in person . Any other wisdom is greatly appreciated to at least get me to where I can start to figure it out on my own . On this subject I have exactly zero first-hand knowledge . I haven't even found any book's to read about it . So thank's for any and all bit's of info ! ...Randy

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Leroy

10-19-2005 16:43:31




Report to Moderator
 Re: OK , another plow question in reply to Randy-IA, 10-16-2005 19:06:37  
I was going to include this but forgot when I posted that, I had tried earlier and had it all written out but lost it before it got posted. On a moldboard plow the center of draft is 3" to left of center of plow so for a 4-16" that would be 2 X 16" = 32" = 3" for 35" to edge of previous furrow and you should add 2" to that so the tire does not runn against the furrow edge all the time so it should be 37" from center of tractor to inside of your right tire. If you want to run a dual on land side you do not have to move that wheel out as the center between the duals will approximate the setting of the right tire. Now the plow should have an adjustable cross bar on it in the hitch to adjust for the correct wheel tread: wheel tread is measured from center to center of tire; and set up corectly it will pull easier and not want to push the front of tractor sideways. I think you sound fairly young so if you are and have a limber body you would not notice the tilt of the tractor with the wheel in the furrow as someone that is old and with arthritis would but the wider wheel tread will make that tilt less and make it easier on the back than a narrower tread as well as pulling easier, you can do it buy adjusting that hitch for a narrower tread but the wider will pull beter and you will feal beter at the end of the day as well. Anymore questions just ask. Leroy

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
RickL

10-19-2005 03:50:49




Report to Moderator
 Re: OK , another plow question in reply to Randy-IA, 10-16-2005 19:06:37  
Would you like a harow to mount on that plow,gotr one that should bolt up off of 4 bottom unit. You can have it if come get it and I have anothetr Oliver plow cheap if you need parts. Plowed all my life in the early days now never have. To much time and fuel to do it nowdays and the yields don't make it pay. Give me call some time.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Leroy

10-19-2005 16:48:39




Report to Moderator
 Re: OK , another plow question in reply to RickL, 10-19-2005 03:50:49  
That harrow you would not want to use on fall plowing to leave to spring as to lay over winter you want it rough BUT now for plowing you are going to be working right away that would be a great thing to have as it would be smothing out the field as you are plowing so it would not be as rough the next time over on sore bones. would also help on moisture. Leroy



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Randy-IA

10-17-2005 17:15:35




Report to Moderator
 Re: OK , another plow question in reply to Randy-IA, 10-16-2005 19:06:37  
Hey all ! Thanks for the info ! I am going to get a manual . It's usually the first thing I get even before I buy the equipment . That way I know if it will do what I want of it . But this one was different . It just popped up and was more or less an impulse buy . I just like Oliver stuff for some reason . Besides , It's a LOT cheaper in most cases than Deere , just not this time . I really only wanted a 2 or 3 bottom plow but they have proven to be more expensive at auction's than the larger 5 or 6 bottom White's and IH's . I haven't yet tryed moving the wheel's on my 1755 but I do have the spinner wheel's ( ? ) , Can't remember right now what they are called .

By the way what are " Land's " . I understand the term as applied to the top and bottom of a furrow , the outer edge of a field and the rifling in a muzzleloader . Also what is a dead furrow as opposed to a back furrow ? Like I said I'm a complete novice when it comes to this type of farming terminology so be gentle with me ;+) . Thanks ...Randy

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Leroy

10-18-2005 17:14:50




Report to Moderator
 Re: OK , another plow question in reply to Randy-IA, 10-17-2005 17:15:35  
Land is anouther name for a section wether plowed together and the backfurrow is where you start the first 2 furrows together or apart and when plowing apart the dead furrow is what you have left when you are done with the land or section, depending upon your field you may start with any number of lands; sections; in any combination of together or apart, one side of field may be thrown to fence while opposide of field will be away from fence, no set way to do it as everyfield is different, you just do not want to put a backfurrow on top of the previous one for years or you will have a big hump and reverce for dead furrows you would have a big ditch. I hope the questions I gave you to answer helped when you bought it. Did you buy a disk yet? all the same questions will also work to find a disk. Leroy

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Randy-IA

10-18-2005 19:43:16




Report to Moderator
 Re: OK , another plow question in reply to Leroy, 10-18-2005 17:14:50  
Hi Leroy , Yes , I got a disc . It's a little 12' Krause model #4 tandem . It's adjustable for angle . I'm going to fix a couple bearing's on it and sell it . I want to get a 18' .

So , a land is basicly just any area that is worked as a unit ? And the dead furrow is the one left open and the back furrow is the ones thrown toward each other ? That makes sense .

I guess I live in the wrong part of the country , I was looking at plow prices again in the farm bureau ad's and the prices you guy's quote don't compare at all with what they sell for around here . I know I didn't get a bargain price but I think it was a good deal . Then again I may not be comparing apples to apples . ....Randy

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
James2

10-19-2005 08:12:51




Report to Moderator
 Re: OK , another plow question in reply to Randy-IA, 10-18-2005 19:43:16  
Leroy did a fine job explaining. If you searched "Google" using "dead furrow", a lot more stuff you can read will come up. I was a little surprised when one of the articles mentioned both a double and single dead furrow. We called a single dead furrow just an open furrow, and reserved the term dead furrow to only the "double" dead furrow. I have heard Dad mention the term "striking" when starting a new land, but the phrase "starting a new land" was the familiar term. I wouldn't give a second thought to paying a little more for that plow. What is a few hundred dollars spread over a life time, a few extra pennies a day? I'm sure the slight displeasure you might feel from having possibly paid a little too much, will quickly recede when faced with the pleasure you get from using it.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
evielboweviel

10-17-2005 16:27:00




Report to Moderator
 Re: OK , another plow question in reply to Randy-IA, 10-16-2005 19:06:37  
the book for my semimounted White 4-16 says 62"-64" between rear tires. Since this is a used plow that you feel is in good shape then it should plow if tractor is set right. You control the plowing depth with the three point hitch, let the rear all the way down there is a bolt that sets the depth on the rear unless you have a depth wheel on the side.
After sliding wheels out to 62-64" then hook up the plow, set both left wheels on 8"blocks or left rear and front tricyle on 8" blocks. Now adjust the three point depth stop until the plow is just touching the ground. You will adjust the indiviual arms only if needed to level plow from side to side. This should get you close then finalise the settings in the field. Once again the book is an invaulable trouble shooting/adjustment guide.
Good luck
Ron

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
James2

10-17-2005 13:22:28




Report to Moderator
 Re: OK , another plow question in reply to Randy-IA, 10-16-2005 19:06:37  
You really need a manual, but with trial and error you could eventually set it up, although it would be a lot more difficult if you don't have any plowing experience. I would purchase a manual. How you start the plowing lands, depends a lot on the field width. Is it narrow enough to only make a single land? If it is relatively narrow and doesn't show evidence of either back or dead furrows, I would go the center of the field and plow down each side making a back furrow in the middle. This would cause a slightly higher ridge in the middle, but would avoid a dead furrow in the center of the field which would be the result if you plowed outward and worked towards the center. Otherwise if you plow it in several separate lands to avoid excessive travel, both dead and back furrows within the field confines are unavoidable. However, remember when you plow again, your goal should be plow it in the opposite manner, ie, have a dead furrow where you last had a back furrow, and if your last pass at the "fence line" was away from the fence, be sure to "throw it" towards the fence the subsequent time. When you are on-land starting the first pass, let the tractor's right lift arm down approx 10 turns from the normal plowing position for better 'bite" and for proper 1st bottom furrow sizing. Return the lift arm to the normal position for the next pass when the tractor wheel is in the open furrow. No, you do not have an automatic reset plow, but the backup and reset is a lot better than a shear pin.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
JMS/MN

10-17-2005 11:06:20




Report to Moderator
 Re: OK , another plow question in reply to Randy-IA, 10-16-2005 19:06:37  
You have a trip bottom plow if you need to stop and back up to reset it. Auto reset will trip and reset without stopping forward tractor motion.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
JMS/MN

10-17-2005 11:04:33




Report to Moderator
 Re: OK , another plow question in reply to Randy-IA, 10-16-2005 19:06:37  
As far as your pattern in plowing the field, it depends on the size and shape of the field, as well as how many bottoms you're pulling. For me it was comfortable to make about 10 rounds CW, then move over 1 1/2 times that, make another 10 rounds CW, then do the middle portion CCW. Repeat. One year make the first rounds next to the fence, the next year do it opposite. Dead furrows used to be an issue with Dad's generation with pull-type plows- could always find them each year because they weren't filled in. Now with semi-mount plows, you can leave a pretty level field by closing in the deadfurrows by dropping the 3ph, lower and feather the rear plow cylinder. For starting a land, just drop the 3ph a bit more than normal to make that first botton cut deep enough. After that, make sure the plow runs level. Don't know of anyone who actually sets the semi-mount plow deeper with the adjusting links to start lands. Extreme waste of time. Very little plowing now-we use disc chisels.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
evilboweviel

10-17-2005 09:42:03




Report to Moderator
 Re: OK , another plow question in reply to Randy-IA, 10-16-2005 19:06:37  
get a manual for your plow will tell you how to set it up what to set the rear wheels at and has a trouble shooting guide to explain if doing this then adjust/change this
Floyd County Museum has the manuals for sale go to the Oliver forum and search the archives.
I have plow manuals for my plows and they explain very well what you are asking.
Good luck
Ron



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Don-Wi

10-16-2005 20:29:40




Report to Moderator
 Re: OK , another plow question in reply to Randy-IA, 10-16-2005 19:06:37  
third party image

To set up your plow, a manual always comes in handy. There are different ways for different models, but the end result has to be the same. When the plow is straight behind the tractor, the first plaow share has to be taking a full width of cut, either 14, 16, or 18", which ever size bottom is on it. It's easiest to tell if you have some loose soil around that your tires leave and imprint, then set the plow down and get out the tape measure. I got lucky w/ our 546 I bought, it was already set where I needed it for the 1855. On our 565 plow, there is a long threaded rod you're supposed to turn to adjust the plow to where it's taking a proper size cut. Ours is rusted right tight, so when we got the 1755 which was narrowed up for cultivating and to fit behind the bucket, we took the hitch bar and moved it over to work. That plow had major issues staying in the ground, but it got better after replacing all of the wear parts. Still has some issues, but the steering needs to be taken apart and bushed up.

As far as ajusting it in the feild after taking your first pass on-land, I've never worried about it. I set it up once I take the first round just to make sure it's level, but after that I just go, doing one feild after the other, and splitting them up as I go. As far as what way you need to go, ussually you alternate going clockwise around the middle, and going CCW on the outside, other wise you'll end up with very deep and large dead furrows if you put them in the same spot every year. Basically making a ditch. By alternating, it gives you a low spot to start out in, so it's not completly on land as you are in last years furrow. Clear as mud?
Donoavn from Wisconsin

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy