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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Hauling a B

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Dave H (MI)

09-19-2005 09:45:36




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Well, I went and bought another tractor! Found a nice little B and need to haul it home. In the past I usually paid to have tractors moved but I have an F-150 now and can move smaller tractors and implements for a tiny bit less myself plus it will make it a bit more of an adventure. I am renting a two axle trailer with surge brakes as it is all they had. I need to get some chain and binders. I would sure appreciate some advice on hauling and securing. What size chain for smaller loads like this? Where does a person go to buy chain binders? Any other advice you care to share I'd like to hear.

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Randy-IA

09-19-2005 18:09:28




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 Re: Hauling a B in reply to Dave H (MI), 09-19-2005 09:45:36  
Hi , Hauling heavy equipment is part of my job as an equipment operator . As everyone here suggest's go with 3/8 graded load binding chain and make sure the hooks on the end are graded also . Look in the yellow pages for a construction supply store . They'll sell you what you need if you aren't sure that the people at the farm store know what they are talking about . A screw type binder is harder to use and easier to use - an oxymoron I know . It's harder because you have to have all the slack out of the chain and start with the binder out as far as it will go without coming apart , you have to keep the chain from twisting as you ratchet it down tight and you need to have a chain and/or a chain and binder on the other end of the load that's already tight or you will slide the load right to you ! What I like doing on the heavy stuff is putting the rear chain on with out a binder , just pull all the slack out and hook the chain back to itself as tight as you can . Then drive the load forward to tighten it , GENTLY , you don't want to spin the tires ! If you have help have them put the front chain on with the binder/s and make sure it's TIGHT . If you don't have help skip the driving forward part unless it has parking brakes that work or get it tight and shut the engine down while in low gear and leave it there . The way I see it you probably won't accellerate ( SP ) out from under the load but with all those brakes working at once you don't want to take the chance of that tractor visiting with you in the cab of your pickup . You should be able to stand on a chain with very little deflection . Remember that the binder is alway's the weak link in the system . 3/8's graded chain is rated at 5500 lbs working load but the best binders I've come across ( The ones we use at work anyway :) ) are rated at 5400 lbs . That's why I don't like using binders on the rear end of a load . Besides most of the time you can't see them in the rearview mirrors to make sure they are still tight . Anyway that's the way I've been doing it for over 17 years hauling loads from D9 cats and 50,000 lb cranes down to little farm implements . By the way , buy 20' chain's and DON'T try using the slip chain method ( hooking the binder to the chain near the load and the other end to the hook end of the chain coming back from the tie down point and try " slipping " the chain to get it tight - it won't stay tight ) . Loop one chain from one side of the trailer to the other and hook the chain back to it's self close to the tiedown point , about 8-10 links away will do , put the binder on the chain with ALL the slack of the chain between the hook's of the binder . After it's all tight ( you might have to do it more than once ) loop the excess chain around the binder and wire it all together so the binder can't back off .

Sorry for getting so long winded but when safety is involved there can't be too many words . I did have one a$$ puckering experience . I tried the " legal " way of binding down a JD 450 dozer ( about 23,000 lbs ) a few years ago on a icy day to take it to get it fixed at the dealer . As I went around the cloverleaf interchange I felt something was going on ( going wrong ) back on the trailer , the way it felt changed on the turn . When I staightened out to merge I checked the left mirror to see if it was clear and saw the dozer was about 2" away from ( about 2/3 of the track was off the side of the trailer ) falling off the left side of the trailer . Instead of hooking on the tracks the way I alway's did ( except this one time ) and crossing chain's over the center of the trailer , I threw the chain's over the track's like an inverted U . And that was the result . BUT that's the way the law ( Iowa DOT ) said it was supposed to be done ( A DOT officer lives next door to my supervisor ) . I don't alway's abide by what the DOT say's anymore . Good luck and take care ...Randy

PS - I got the dozer to the dealer without repositioning it . When I got there we used a large loader to push it over a little so I could get the chains loose .

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Dave H (MI)

09-19-2005 19:08:18




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 Re: Hauling a B in reply to Randy-IA, 09-19-2005 18:09:28  
I want to thank you, Randy, for taking the time to explain all of that. I went ahead and copied into my archive in MSWord where I keep all the advice I get on various forum items I post. I'll take all your advice and post a picture in the IH forum when I get her home. Thanks also to old and coloken for your input.....much appreciated all!

Dave



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old

09-19-2005 10:20:38




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 Re: Hauling a B in reply to Dave H (MI), 09-19-2005 09:45:36  
Boomers can be had at any good farm supply place. Get the racket type sorry about the spelling, not the flip type. The flip type can brake your hand if you have it in the wrong place. What brand of B an allis or JD is easy to load but a Farmall can be a bear because of how wide they are. 5/16 chain is big enough but I use 3/8 high tension on all my loads. $ binders are the best way to go and from what I have heard its now the law. One binder on each corner of the tractor/trailor.

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Dave H (MI)

09-19-2005 11:40:04




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 Re: Hauling a B in reply to old, 09-19-2005 10:20:38  
Is it possible to become senile in your 40's? I meant to put this on the IH board so that everyone would know it is a Farmall B. I took the measurements on the outside of the tires and found 80" at the current setting. Looks like the rental trailer will just let her squeek between the fenders. Do you think TSC should have those binders? Am I good to run a chain from one front corner, thru the tractor, and bind it to the other front corner and then repeat in the back or am I likely to have some pivot movement from the tractor? Second alternative would be a "V" like above on one end and two chains and binders on the other end or....third possibility, four chains and four binders going to the tractor. I want to be safe not cheap, but I also don't want to do my usual "overkill" when I could do just as well with less (if you follow me). I'd appreciate any thoughts anybody has on these ideas.

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old

09-19-2005 13:07:38




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 Re: Hauling a B in reply to Dave H (MI), 09-19-2005 11:40:04  
The last B I hauled we ran the chain in/around the front up and under the wheels and also a chain through the draw bar. Then you just put your binders on the 4 corners and tighten them up. If you go with the flip type binders becareful and keep your fingers clear of the handle when it flips closed seen to many broken fingers. Also if you go with the flip type always tie them closed or they will pop open on you.

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Coloken

09-19-2005 09:54:41




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 Re: Hauling a B in reply to Dave H (MI), 09-19-2005 09:45:36  
The experts here will tell you, or check past messages. V chain to the front corners of the trailer, and V to the back. I am yelling fast so you will not buy the "toggel over" chain tighteners/binders...If you do use them, safty wire them shut. Drive a couple of miles and stop and check every thing.



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