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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Hay rack -again

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Randy-IA

08-12-2005 18:03:00




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Hi , I'm picking up the wood for my hay rack tomorrow . On Kelly C's site ( Hi Kelly ! ) he used deck screws to hold his top deck on , I'm doing my rack with the top boards across the stringers 8' wide . I have a ridge at the field access which will twist the rack at a diagonal pretty bad . No way to level it as it's not mine and it is also there to direct runoff . I thought I'd use 1/4" X 3" lag screws , washer'd and countersunk till the heads are flush . Would this be overkill ? The wood is white oak 1-1/2" thick . My gear has the rocker bolster on the front , so the next question is which end to bolt down , or is that a personal preferance ? With the rocker , if I bolt down the rear should the front still be chained ? Got to get this together this weekend so as soon as the forecast improves I can do the last cutting ( hopefully Sunday ) , got over an inch of rain last night :-) Thanks ....Randy

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John In Iowa

08-14-2005 08:48:50




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 Re: Hay rack -again in reply to Randy-IA, 08-12-2005 18:03:00  
I rebuild one three years ago. It has 2 4x8 18� sills. I have it on an 8-ton running gear. I spread the axles out to about 11� and added 2 4x8 12� sills between the axles and bolted them together �� carriage bolts. I position the 18 footers so that 2 foot stuck out in the front to build a little platform to stand on when loading the front. I then used 4x4 cross sills except on the front and back and were I anchor the standard. I used 4x8 there and bolted down all of them using �� cartridge bolts. I used standard 16� green treated decking running length wise with a �� spacing used decking screws, then went around the edges with 2x4s and bolted them down to the cross sills using 9/16� cartridge bolts. I then bolted the standard to the back 4x8 sill and brace them using 2� angle iron and bolt them to the 4x8 cross sill. I painted the whole thing with oil base barn paint. It�s a little over kill, but it is one nice rack to load and the load doesn�t loosin up in a rough field or going down the road and it still looks like new.

John In Iowa

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Randy-IA

08-13-2005 23:21:28




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 Re: Hay rack -again in reply to Randy-IA, 08-12-2005 18:03:00  
Hi , Thanks for the responses . I started the rack this afternoon after I got the the lag screws from the farm and fleet in town . Big boo-boo ! I didn't check the grade of the lags before I settled on 5/16" . Turns out they were ungraded . Broke the first one I tried to put in . And that was in a pre-drilled hole ! Used a 3/16" bit for pre-drilling . Frizzle frazzle!~*&@@$#%!! So tomorrow when the store opens at 11 I'm returning the lags and going with kyhayman's advice on the nails if I can find them . But what is the benefit of the twisted nails over the others such as concrete coated , ring shank , galvanized , etc. ? All these types have a healthy pull out force .

I didn't read this good advice before I started so I lag'd ( 1/2" X 4" ) the front of the stringers to the rocker which I think I'll change to grade 5 bolts also . I put in 4X4 cross bracing which I had ordered before they suggested I go with 8" tall stringers instead of the 5" ones I originally ordered . The stringers are 4" X 8" so I staggered 3 braces ; one on bottom over front axle , one on top over rear axle and third one also on top at very rear under the last deck board which will be screwed to it all the way across . I have 31" of overhang in front and 44" in the rear because they cut me stringers 16'+ long so I made the rack deck 15'1-5/8" long instead of 14' . That way I can get an even number of bales on it with no room to stand on the front to get those last ones on :) . Since the wood is fresh cut white oak I'm putting the ( 1-1/2" X 8-1/8" ) deck boards on tight to one another hoping that as they dry they will shrink 5 to 8 % leaving me with 1/4" to 1/2" gaps . I'm considering only fastening them down in one place toward the front of each board till they have had a chance to dry for a couple months and then finish fastening them . Does my plan sound like it will outlast me ? I like the idea of two boards along the sides to keep warping to a minimum but only ordered one per side so maybe I'll put it vertical and get two more boards for the top edge later this week . OK , Thanks ...Randy

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kyhayman

08-13-2005 12:38:28




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 Re: Hay rack -again in reply to Randy-IA, 08-12-2005 18:03:00  
I always anchor both runners solid on the front axle with 1/2" dia machine bolts. Back I use 2 pc of 2x2 angle iron, 1 on each side of the axle, on both sides. This stops any forward or rearward slide, then put a 1/2" bolt 2" below the axle through the angle to prevent more than 2" of vertical motion. For attaching the flooring to the runners I prefer 4" long case hardened twisted nails. So far never had any problems, my 1000th wagon is getting ready to roll out of the shop at work in about a month.

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Iowa Jim

08-13-2005 09:01:47




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 Re: Hay rack -again in reply to Randy-IA, 08-12-2005 18:03:00  
Bolt done both sills in the back, leave the front float, but secure it with a chain around the front bolster and the wagon bed to keep it from flipping over. I learned that the hard way!! HE HE HE



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Nebraska Cowman

08-13-2005 05:09:21




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 Re: Hay rack -again in reply to Randy-IA, 08-12-2005 18:03:00  
No, 1/4 inch lag screws are not overkill. if you use your wagon much deck screws will not hold up. Also use bracing on your stringers so the cant tip sideways. I like to box both ends with the same size lumber and use angle iron and bolts to hold it.



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Errin OH

08-12-2005 20:15:14




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 Re: Hay rack -again in reply to Randy-IA, 08-12-2005 18:03:00  
I am sure the are several ways to do it and be correct. Not knowing the demintions or load requirements, I give ya what I would do given your description.

I would bolt down the oppsite corners (one in front one in back).
Attach each board to the rail with 3"deck screws (pre drill) 2 for 6" cross boards 3 for any thing bigger.
Run two boards down each side forming an angel on the edges (laid on top pointing down over the edge).
About every two foot install a pice of angel iron from the edge to the bottom of the main rail forming a triangle for edge support.

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RAW in IA

08-13-2005 09:46:16




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 Re: Hay rack -again in reply to Errin OH, 08-12-2005 20:15:14  
If you bolt down opposite corners it will twist the rack all the time. No give at all. I'm not sure that dad's ahy racks were bolted down at all, probably just a chain in front to keep it from flipping and moving for and aft.



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Rexalot

08-14-2005 10:39:44




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 Re: Hay rack -again in reply to RAW in IA, 08-13-2005 09:46:16  
My rack is not bolted at either end EXCEPT for where the drawbar comes off the back for another wagon. That is bolted to the frame and through the wood at the back that supports the bed. The bed is prevented from moving fore and aft by using u-shaped angle iron bolted to the running gear, in which the wood supporting the rails then slides into. It also can"t go side to side. I suppose the bed could come off the running gear if one could manage to get the bed hung up on something while the running gear dropped out (maybe in a ditch?) but otherwise the bed is to heavy to hop out of the supports on the running gear. The bed is tongue and groove 1" x 3""s running accross 16" 4 x 6 beams. It then has 1" x 3""s tongue n grooved nailed the length. It was meant to be a corn hauler with side boards. I just removed the sides and added a rack. I can get approx 120 bales on going 5 across, 5 high, with an additional row on top of that going 4 across to tie it off. (I"d go more but I don"t care to stack much higher)

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