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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

JD #5 knife broke

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over myhead

08-03-2005 07:51:06




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It is bound to happen when you run it into a piece of metal. I am a rooky. I rammed my JD #5 mower into something that broke on knife so I need to replace it. Just the one but I am not done cutting so timing is of the essence. They are rivetted with heavy duty rivets. I thought to myself that I could remove a guide, grind off the back of the rivets to get it free and remove the knife, place in a new one and then... I got to there in my mentla plan and got lost. I bet I can buy rivets at the agg store today. Are they something I can pound on in place with a hammer and a backing piece of steel, right on the tractor? My operators manual does not reference how to re/re blades very well, and it does not tell me how to remove the cutting bar. I actually do have a spare knife so I am set there.

I would like to get this done while on the machine. But I would love some directions on how to completely remove the cutter bar in case I ever need to in the future. Also so I can look for worn parts an dmaybe sharpen things up when I am done this mess.

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msb

08-03-2005 14:17:39




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 Re: JD #5 knife broke in reply to over myhead, 08-03-2005 07:51:06  
Aw Gee! Just do it right.Takes about 30 seconds to completely remove the sickle and then you can do the job right.If you don't have a sickle servicer then put the sickle in a vice with the bad section in the jaws and smack the back edge of the section with a hammer.That will shear the old rivets off.Now take a punch and remove the rivet bottoms from the sickle.Replace the section and hammer the rivets flat.Don't hit the rivets too hard or you can stretch the sickle,seriously shortening its life.Its a lot ceasier and better than trying to save a little time which I seriously doubt you will.Chances nare you will bend the sickle if you go pounding on it while its still in the machine.

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Dave H (MI)

08-03-2005 10:57:34




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 Re: JD #5 knife broke in reply to over myhead, 08-03-2005 07:51:06  
Paul has it pretty much correct below, although if I were "over my head" I wouldn't be able to make heads or tails of what was said. There are two straps, one on either side of the pitman arm, that clamp over a ball on the end of the knife assembly. There is a yoke that slides over these straps and holds them against the ball. The yoke is spring loaded. There is a strap on TOP of the pitman with a slot in it that you stick your punch into. Force the yoke back and the top strap sort of holds the side straps open. That is my memory. If you MUST remove the entire knife from the bar then take a strong punch long enough so you have good leverage and (keeping fingers off the bar) you stick this in the slot.

But all of that is moot because you don't have to remove the knife to replace a few teeth. Go to the ag store and get a sickle tool. Don't argue a few bucks with me...get the fool thing. One side removes the rivet and the other side puts a new one on. Do it once and you will be an expert and can replace a tooth in minutes with the knife on the bar. It will be FASTER than old rusted bolts and will hold better. Removing the knife may cause more problems than it fixes as those straps can be difficult on some mowers and I have seen them break.

Don't forget to buy the rivets.

Dave

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paul

08-03-2005 22:00:52




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 Re: JD #5 knife broke in reply to Dave H (MI), 08-03-2005 10:57:34  
That"s why I always like to see several responses to my questions too - the first couple are usually clear as mud. :) :)

--->Paul



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James2

08-03-2005 11:26:54




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 Re: JD #5 knife broke in reply to Dave H (MI), 08-03-2005 10:57:34  
I agree his posting was not an easy read. I bought and now use one of the sickle tools, and it works great. Still give it a few wacks with a rivet set and hammer after using the tool for good measure. Thought about using the new bolts, but it doesn't take much longer. Also have one of the old JD sickle tools, which I may try sometime.



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Dick Kline

08-03-2005 10:44:29




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 Re: JD #5 knife broke in reply to over myhead, 08-03-2005 07:51:06  
I wouldn't mess with a grinder, just use a good sharp chisel and big hammer and knock the preformed head off. Then take a punch and drive the rest out. Easier to do in the field anyway.

Take a little time and strike the rivet with the flat end of a ball pein to bulge it out a little and make it tight. Then try to form a head like the preformed one with the rounded end. You don't want to get the head too flat or the knife will just just pull through it.

Did dozens out in the field this way. Just remember to keep a chisel, punch and 2# hammer in you tool box

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paul

08-03-2005 08:39:08




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 Re: JD #5 knife broke in reply to over myhead, 08-03-2005 07:51:06  
A #5 sounds really popular here, but I've never worked with one.

Changed a few 100 sickle sections tho.... ;)

Take the gaurd off. Grind the top of the rivet off. Pound the section down & off. Put the new section on. Put a shaft (or other solid metal - dad had a 2-3 foot long shaft that he ground a small flat point on one end, stick the shaft on the ground, lput the rivot head on the top of this small flat spot & keep the rivot very tight) below the rivet head, and pound the top of the rivot silly. Replace the guard. Very important to keep the rivot up tight on the bottom.

Or, when you go to the ag store to get the box of rivots, right next to the rivots you will see a box of small bolts. You can use these bolts to clamp the sickle section on. Easier to do so 'in the field' with the bolts than with the rivots. I'd look for the bolts. Couple different styles/ lengths, match up what you need.

--->Paul

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Steve (Magnolia, TX)

08-03-2005 08:37:56




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 Re: JD #5 knife broke in reply to over myhead, 08-03-2005 07:51:06  
I just (recently) replaced ALL of the sections on my knife bar. I bought the 'new' bolts w/nuts that are available. Works like a dream... and no more pounding rivets!!

As to removing the entire knife bar... it's pretty easy. Disconnect the pitman arm and it will slide out, under the mower. It may require the use of a "persuader" (aka BFH, see the ball pein hammer discussion on the tool forum :-) )

HTH

Steve

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Bob

08-03-2005 08:40:30




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 Re: JD #5 knife broke in reply to Steve (Magnolia, TX), 08-03-2005 08:37:56  
If you decide to remove the sickle, drizzle a little oil along the full length of the cutterbar, then run it a minute or two, shut it down, and repeat. It's amazing how much easier it is to pull the knife out when it's well lubed.



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paul

08-03-2005 08:53:30




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 Re: JD #5 knife broke in reply to Bob, 08-03-2005 08:40:30  
On the ball of the sickle bar there is a clamp deal from the pitman stick. A punch or strong screw driver in the lever of this clamp deal will turn the clamp and open it. Then you pull the sickle out toward the tractor, under the mower frame. Often times a sickle edge will catch on a gaurd or 2 as you pull, need to convince them to slide by. Keep fingers _out_ of contact with any sickle or gaurds here, or you will be known as nine-fingers. Seriously.

You want the sickle bar to be level & flat so the sickle slides out more easily, no bow to the bar.

--->Paul

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not overmy head

08-04-2005 05:09:00




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 Re: JD #5 knife broke in reply to paul, 08-03-2005 08:53:30  
I got er done. I tried to unbolt the guard to see about doing it on the machine nd that will be a bigger project than doing a knife. Worn down and would not budge, not a chance. Probably need the blue wrench for that. And more time to think.

Popped the clamp, slid the sickle out and knocked the rivets on the vice, put new knife and rivets in, hit with hammer, coated with some light oil and slide back in.

Good as 1950 but with a few miles under its belt. Thanks guys

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Sam#3

08-04-2005 10:17:15




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 Re: JD #5 knife broke in reply to not overmy head, 08-04-2005 05:09:00  
Now get a couple spare sickles so when you break one or it needs sharping slip it out put in the spare and keep on cutting. Repair and sharpen when it rains. (If ever.)



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