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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

MF 124 needle replacement

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Kraig

07-22-2005 09:41:25




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Has anyone ever replaced the needles on a 124 baler, I started to go about it today and I am having a hard time getting the right adjustment, should it be thishard or am I just doing something incorrectly?




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Kraig

07-22-2005 15:28:25




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 Re: MF 124 needle replacement in reply to Kraig, 07-22-2005 09:41:25  
I am actually bolting the needles to the "U" arm that carries them, I am having trouble lining them up side to side



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KEH

07-23-2005 05:00:04




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 Re: MF 124 needle replacement in reply to Kraig, 07-22-2005 15:28:25  
Kraig, According to Operators manual: Disconnect connecting rod from swing frame bracket(on left side of baler) After needles are looseley installed, rotate swing frame bracket by hand until needles are adjacent to knotter frame. at this point needles should be rubbing with slight pressure on frame. Tighten nuts on bolts when needles ar in position. Continue to rotate swing frame and check clearance of fixed roller of needle to twine disc and twine retainer(stiff wire attached to bale chamber) clearance should be 1/16" to 1/8" inch. Return swing frame to home position and reconnect connecting rod.

Hope this helps.

KEH

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KEH

07-23-2005 04:59:06




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 Re: MF 124 needle replacement in reply to Kraig, 07-22-2005 15:28:25  
Kraig, According to Operators manual: Disconnect connecting rod from swing frame bracket(on left side of baler) After needles are looseley installed, rotate swing frame bracket by hand until needles are adjacent to knotter frame. at this point needles should be rubbing with slight pressure on frame. Tighten nuts on bolts when needles ar in position. Continue to rotate swing frame and check clearance of fixed roller of needle to twine disc and twine retainer(stiff wire attached to bale chamber) clearance should be 1/16" to 1/8" inch. Return swing frame to home position and reconnect connecting rod.

Hope this helps.

KEH

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KEH

07-23-2005 04:57:54




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 Re: MF 124 needle replacement in reply to Kraig, 07-22-2005 15:28:25  
Kraig, According to Operators manual: Disconnect connecting rod from swing frame bracket(on left side of baler) After needles are looseley installed, rotate swing frame bracket by hand until needles are adjacent to knotter frame. at this point needles should be rubbing with slight pressure on frame. Tighten nuts on bolts when needles ar in position. Continue to rotate swing frame and check clearance of fixed roller of needle to twine disc and twine retainer(stiff wire attached to bale chamber) clearance should be 1/16" to 1/8" inch. Return swing frame to home position and reconnect connecting rod.

Hope this helps.

KEH

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KEH

07-22-2005 13:58:22




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 Re: MF 124 needle replacement in reply to Kraig, 07-22-2005 09:41:25  
Kraig, I just went through this and I'm not sure everything is right yet. I've never used a mf baler before. When I got the baler it had new needles but was not in time. Got a manual and timed it by the book. Tried it out and it bent both needles. Took it to a dealer and bought a shop manual for $16. Dealer had not worked on one before so he learned at my expense. He found out the knotter drive chain was badly born, and that the knotter drive idler was a flat pulley that was too wide for the baler instead of the original sprocket. Replaced chain and put a narrow pulley on that the chain fits in so that it has no side to side motion. Reccommend you check condition of chain, also that you get a shop manual and time it by that. I tried the baler out yesterday and it would not tie. Decided it was not pulling the knots off the bill hooks. Spent this A.M. cleaning the excess twine off the bill hooks. It seems to tie now. As you can see, I'm not a good source of advice, but I hope you can learn from my problems. In addition, you have to time the cross feed forks. There is a shear bolt for the forks as well as a different bolt with bushing for the flywheel.

KEH

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Steve (Magnolia, TX)

07-22-2005 14:20:06




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 Re: MF 124 needle replacement in reply to KEH, 07-22-2005 13:58:22  
We just went through timing our 124 (had to replace a bearing and a sprocket in/on the packer arm drive).

We got the manual out and set everything JUST like it said in the book and advanced the flywheel by hand.... got about 1/8 of a turn and started hollerin' STOP!!!

I ain't sure who wrote those instructions, but they weren't worth the paper they were written on.
Ended up just using some logic. Got the plunger timed to the needles, first, then timed the packer arms to the plunger.

Works better than ever...

HTH
Steve

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