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As already mentioned, the tightness of the ball joint is controlled by the eccentric slots in the plate that joins the two arms of the socket. I generally just adjust it close after putting it on the ball, but before attaching to the pitman. I never is quite right as the plate has indents so that it holds at fixed points, and naturally, best fit is between two detents - probably due to wear. Do either of you happen to have a manual? I have a NI sickle mower that I haven't found a model number on, but would like to find a manual so I can try to restore the lift. If you have a manual, I'd be happy to post a picture of mine to see if it matches yours, then if so, would be happy to reimburse a reasonable cost of copying at least some pages. A past owner converted it from towed to 3-pt, did it badly, and I have had to rebuild the 3-pt frame structure. It works about as well as I might expect, but with a manual I could improve it. I also find that in the 3-pt form, it drags cut hay that catches on the projections on the bottom, so I'm in the process of making a skid plate to replace the barn metal I currently have baling wired to the bottom as a temporary fix. I imagine you restorers are choking as you read, but I need a working mower and this is the best I could afford at the time, and now I've gotten used to its quirks and actually like it. :)
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