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The key is to change the direction of bales every 2nd or 3rd level. Do not stack them like cement blocks one on top of the other, but do the stagger thing. Makes a solid load. On my 8x - um, I don't know how long my raks are???? Anyhow, I stack 3 wide across the bottom. Yes you get a good 1/3 of a bale overhang on each side. I do this 3 high. Then the 4th & 5th row I put one bale lengthwise down the middle, and put a bale on each side like the bottom rows, across the rack. The 6th row is 2 bales wide, across the rack. This ends up with a load of bales shaped like a loaf of bread, gets narrower at the top. It is very stable. The couple of bales running length-wise really stablize the load fore & aft. While many people will run some rows across, and other rows lengthwise to make a sturdy load, I find thos emiserable to unload by myself. I have a drive-in hay mow, and it is really rough to pull those bales off the rack while standing on the floor. My plan allows one to pull the bales down & off the rack with a bale hook, no climbing up to get bales down, then come down to stack, etc. I use a rear rack to start the bales. Sure makes it a _lot_ easier. You can manage without, but an empty bale rack bounces a lot, very hard to start your rows & keep bales from falling off. I stack all 6 high on the back row or 2, and work my way forward. I would not want to do one whole layer, then the 2nd layer, etc. Would not work well that way. --->Paul
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