Problems with Vermeer 504G Round Baler

1. This baler has electric tie, but the twine tube seems to be so long that when I put it to the right to start tieing, it hits the starter roll. The first time I tried this I though it was going to stall the baler, so I stopped immediately. Is this correct ? As a quick fix I cut off about 3 inches of the inner tube, then adjusted the twine stop so that the arm wouldn't go as far to the left so that it wouldn't fall out. I still have to do something so that the twine is pinched off again, as the angle at the stop isn't right. I am wondering if some of these parts are wrong.

2. When the first bale got to just over 4 feet, the chamber latch popped open. I had replaced the latch springs with stiffer ones before this. I am assuming that there is a hydraulic leak somewhere. For the rest of the day I used the hydraulic safety shut-off, which seemed to stop this problem, but this meant I had to stop and switch this before I could eject the bale.

3. I had alot of trouble getting one bale out of the chamber. The old trick of turning the PTO on and off doesn't seem to work with this baler. It finally came out after driving half-way down the field ! Would slip-coat help this ?

The bales were extremely dense, and my tractor (an Oliver 1600) was working hard once the bale got bigger than 4 feet. This baler has a modification with 2 extra tension springs with cables running through them on top of the baler. I am assuming this is to make tighter bales. This mod is labelled "Dameco Products, Darrel A. McNutt Engineering Co., Sopor OK". Should I leave this on, or disconnect it ?

Thanks in advance !

1. I would not have cut the tie tube. The stop at only holds the twine so the blade on the othe end can cut the twine. The feed tube should pass between the belts and the roller with the rubber flaps. If it doesn't it is bent. The baler does have to be turning or it will hang on the flaps.

2. The latches probably are not completly latching. The latch indicator rod should tell is they are latched. It should stay latched even if the cylinders leak off. The linkage may be messed up or the lift gate twisted. Check the latch rollers too. Turning the baler with with closing pressure on the gate cylinder helps to make it latch

3. The bales are pretty tight but should come out. The optinal "pie plates", Alan refered to as ejector plates, inside should help. The side plates on the baler may be bent due to extra tension springs. Check the frame tubes for breaks, especialy where the gate cylinders mount. Mine broke there.

4. Those extra springs must make it bale a very dense bale. Mine does a good job with the standard 4 spring setup.

1. From what i can remeber, the whole twine tying mechanisinm can be adjusted for height, by bolts on either side of the baler, the tubes need to be about an inch below the starter roller.

2. unlaching of the back door is caused by pressure loss in the cylinders, switching the locking device on cures the problem, it would indicate a leeky connection at the tractor end, maybe adjustment needed on spool block?

3. are the ovel ejector plates installed? these are fitted over the bottom roller. We baled 15,000 bales a year with the old and we never switched the pto off when ejecting the bales, yeh, yeh, yeh, i know the book says to stop p t o when ejecting but, it actually worked better by leaving the pto going.

4. I cant really help with the last bit, we had hydraulic tensioning and one spring each side, the was the option of extra springs but bale density was never a problem!
Hope this helps
Alan