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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

NH 268 bale shape

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djhmo

05-12-2005 07:57:27




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We cannot get a uniform bale shape, right side (closest to twine holder) is always longer. Have tried adjusting plunger travel, feeder fingers, tension, etc. Help




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onefarmer

05-16-2005 07:58:51




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 Re: NH 268 bale shape in reply to djhmo, 05-12-2005 07:57:27  
Had the same problem on my 570 it was a few years old and started to rainbow the bales. Tried every thing from windrow to feed fingers to bale tension with no luck. Turned out it was broken springs on the hay dogs. They wouldn't hold the bale back so the next stoke wouldn't feed even making the bad bales.



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Hurst

05-13-2005 16:11:56




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 Re: NH 268 bale shape in reply to djhmo, 05-12-2005 07:57:27  
Our 311 hayliner has the tension springs on both side with the handles to tighten/losen the springs that are at the end of the bale chute. Last year we had the same problem as you describe and it ended up being that the springs were not tightened the same amount. The best way to do this is to unscrew it all the way and then count the turns and do the same turns on the other side. If it still does it, could be windrows, if that fails then I would think that one of these springs could be stretched or something with them broking, maybe the hing back in the baler. If you don't know what springs I am talking about, e-mail me. Good luck

Hurst

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Joe(TX)

05-13-2005 05:20:15




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 Re: NH 268 bale shape in reply to djhmo, 05-12-2005 07:57:27  
I agree with Bob. Read the manual. More than likly its the feeder fork adjustment. After I properly adjusted them on my S69 NH, my bale shape and density problems went away. I had previously adjusted them to my own interpretation instead of following the manuals advise.



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BobMo

05-12-2005 21:37:50




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 Re: NH 268 bale shape in reply to djhmo, 05-12-2005 07:57:27  
This baler wasn't designed to banana bales on its own. I think you will have to go back to basics. Get out your manual and go through all settings to see that they are correct and only then can you make a determination that something is wrong with your input.
I can tell you this afer running a NH315 for years, it doesn't care where you put the hay in at and it doesn't care how small or large your winrow is, if your operating speed and travel speeds are correct as recommended it will make uniform bales consistantly. Now none of this means anything if you've got a bunch worn parts that won't allow the unit to operate properly. Good Luck....

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Coloken

05-12-2005 16:22:15




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 Re: NH 268 bale shape in reply to djhmo, 05-12-2005 07:57:27  
Like the others say. All so the knives must be kind of sharp and adjusted close.



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Bob H nw Oh

05-12-2005 16:05:55




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 Re: NH 268 bale shape in reply to djhmo, 05-12-2005 07:57:27  
djhmo,first of all read the manual about 10 times,there is much info in it,move feeder carriage pin forward as far as it will go,this will push hay further into the bale chamber!!HTH,Bob.



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Greg C

05-12-2005 12:23:01




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 Re: NH 268 bale shape in reply to djhmo, 05-12-2005 07:57:27  
Try putting the windrow closer to the plunger side of the baler pickup. Also might try looking in the archives, I recall that problem being discussed alot last year.



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JMS/MN

05-12-2005 21:39:27




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 Re: NH 268 bale shape in reply to Greg C , 05-12-2005 12:23:01  
Don't mean to burst your bubble, but that will not influence the shape of the bale. Same amount of hay entering the chamber per stroke, just gets there a split second sooner, and the previous storke left that much sooner as well. You need enough volume of hay into the chamber at any given time to make a decent slice across the entire width and height of the chamber. Sharp kni9ves are fine, but you still need to punch enough hayin on each stroke to make that solid rectangle of slice.

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JMS/MN

05-12-2005 08:30:47




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 Re: NH 268 bale shape in reply to djhmo, 05-12-2005 07:57:27  
Windrow size and ground speed also influence bale shape. Try a heavier windrow or faster ground speed. Not enough hay entering the baler per stroke.



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Tom in TN

05-12-2005 20:33:27




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 Re: NH 268 bale shape in reply to JMS/MN, 05-12-2005 08:30:47  

I have a NH 271 baler that used to make terrible bales. Just like JMS/MN says, windrow size makes all the difference in the world. I always rake two mower swaths into each windrow, and if the hay is short or sparse, I rake three swaths into a windrow. My bales now consistently come out tight and even.

Good luck,

Tom in TN



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Rexalot

05-15-2005 07:56:24




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 Re: NH 268 bale shape in reply to Tom in TN, 05-12-2005 20:33:27  
I just bought a NH68. I was suprised when I did a few test bales and it actually made nice tight squares (straw) with only two pair of feeding forks on the tine bar (Fixed set and an adjustable set on the plunger side). I pitch fork fed the straw. Forks are at extreme ends of the tine bar. I really expected poor results...

I have my other baler (NHS67) set with the feeding forks equally spaced on the tine bar. Bales come out square but a few will banna when picked up (loose) but I attribute that to my help handling the bales and a couple of broken haydog springs.

Now, I usually roll 2 swaths from my HN469 into one windrow - approx 20 - 30 inch diameter(grass mix) and run about 4 - 6 mph trying the keep the material in the pickup on the plunger side. I've done it this way not because someone said to, it just worked for me and I knew no better. I see that it seems to be what others have suggested works. I would think that putting the material right down the middle of the pick up would be most ideal, as windrows never seem to be of uniform size anyway. Take baling straw for example, I bale it right off the stubble, run it right up the middle of the pick up. I've made no changes to the baler (other than bale tension). I set my tension springs using a ruler as opposed to counting turns once I decide that the weight is what I want.

I suggest you experiment more. Try placing one set of forks about 4-6 inches off the end of the tine bar on the plunger side and splitting the distance to the fixed set on the opposite end with the remaining pair. If that doesn't work out try only adjusting the middle pair in the direction that manual suggest's will solve the problem. Maybe you've already tried this?

Nobody ever said haying was easy... too many variables from weather to machines.

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