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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

using a plow

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TnT

04-09-2005 15:16:49




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I just bought a two bottom plow at an auction. I have an 850 Ford tractor. I'm under the mistaken inpression that all I have to do is hook the plow up to the Ford, drop it down and start pulling. What do I really need to do to make a plow work properly? Oh yes, my Ford Tractor has "draft Control" what ever that is.




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Hugh MacKay

04-10-2005 05:15:06




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 Re: using a plow in reply to TnT, 04-09-2005 15:16:49  
TnT: Some good advice from Dan, just one other item. The wheel tread of your tractor should be somewhere between 52" and 60" center to center on the rear tires. Go with the smaller figure if plow is 12" and larger figure for 16". Tire width affects this also. This helps in making the right furrow same size as left. You have some adjustment for this on plow, rotating the shaft the lower links hook to. There is a proper chart for this, I don't have a copy at hand. The chart actually gives you the distance from center of tractor to inside of right rear tire for various sizes of plows. example 2x12, 3x14, 2x16, 5x16, etc.

Play with a bit, you probably wont get it right first time. I once bought a new plow. knew it wouldn't be set right. Got the dealer to set plow just across fence from a retired neighbor who did tractor work for me. The neighbor was an experienced plowman that could do champion ship plowing. I knew he couldn't resist as the tractor was new and he loved that tractor. He said it took first day to get it adjusted properly. New plows can be worse than used ones. Just be patient, you will soon find out what is right or wrong. If you encounter further question, come back, the combination of guys on here will have you competeing at a plowing match within two years.

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Roy in UK

04-10-2005 23:07:21




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 Re: using a plow in reply to Hugh MacKay, 04-10-2005 05:15:06  
"New plows can be worse than used ones."
Yeah I know what you mean, you can"t do much till you get that bit of paint off can you?
I remember buying a new Kverneland Model L 3 furrow reversible, a wonderful tool once I got it all shined up and set right, but the first few rounds looked as if I had turned a herd of pigs out on the field!



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Hugh MacKay

04-11-2005 05:10:59




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 Re: using a plow in reply to Roy in UK, 04-10-2005 23:07:21  
Roy: You must have one of those charts I suggested re distance from inside of tire to center of tractor for various sizes of plows. I have a copy somewhere just can't seem to find it.

Yes that new plow senario was bad. Don't know which is worse paint or rust. I don't plow much other than a garden anymore so always spray my plow bottoms with with graphite after use. Graphite keeps the rust off, plus soil will slide over it well until worn off. On a new plow, first you had to adjust so plow would plow, then adjust items to match tractor. At least with old plow if it came from a good plowman, all you needed do was adjust it to match tractor.

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Dan B

04-09-2005 17:11:50




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 Re: using a plow in reply to TnT, 04-09-2005 15:16:49  
First with the plough hitched on the three point linkage adjust the top link so that the two plough bodies will plough at the same depth, if the plough wont enter the soil the top link needs shortening or if this doesnt work the soil is either too hard or the points need replacing. while ploughing check that the plough is following the tractor in a straight line and not dragging it to one side. If this happens then you will have to adjust the angle of the plough, on a conventional plough this is usually done by winding a handle to alter the position of the cranked headstock (lower link pins) on a reversible this involves moving the entire headstock one way or another. The skimmers should be set to just skim off the top inch or so of surface soil. When ploughing, the tractor wheel on one side usually runs in the furrow bottom created by the previous pass and the plough turns the soil to fill in this furrow. it is obviously necessary to make sure the plough is level while the tractor is not. On a conventional plough adjust the length of the tractors link arm rod, meanwhile a reversible plough requires that the link arms are at the same height relative to the tractor, and how perpendicular the plough is depends on the adjustable stops on the plough head stock.

Ploughing with a reversible simply requires you to turn the plough over every time you turn round so that the plough turns the soil to the left or right as required, slightly quicker and rather boring. Conventional ploughing requires the field to be split into Lands, a shallow furrow is cut down the centre and then you plough down one side and up the other turning the soil towards the centre, a bit of an art form in getting the centre opening split done properly and finishing the lands.

Position control - the link arms and therefore plough depth depends on the relative position of the lever.

Draft Control - The tractor senses the amount of pull on the plough (through the top Link being compressed). The lever sets the level of sensitivity at which the tractor will respond. Lever right down - no response and the plough will sink to max depth. Lever right up - the plough will be lifted right up. - Some where in between and the tractor will automatically raise the plough slightly in tough going and thereby transfer weight of plough onto rear wheels increasing traction, and will lower plough in lighter going, the plough will also follow undulating terrain better. Adjust lever to keep the plough in the ground while allowing sufficient sensitivity to maintain traction.
More recent tractors will have two levers on the quadrant, the smaller one is the draft control, Fordsons however will require you to flick a lever beneath the quadrant to switch the quadrant lever between modes.

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