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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

hay wagon body rebuild??

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Scottr

03-12-2005 16:39:28




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I just bought an old hay wagon running gear )no body). I"ve noticed bodies being built two ways. The first way has two 2X12"s set on edge running the length of the wagon, and 2X6"s, 8"s, 10"s, or whatever laying flat running across the wagon, with 2X band laying flat on the sides. The second way is running two 5X8 or so beams on edge the length of the wagon, then 4X6"s every few feet on center cross ways, then on top of those, 2X6, 8, 10"s, or whatever laying flat the length of the body. Does it make a hill of beans difference which way it"s built? This is about a 5 ton wagon and will be used on a hobby farm.

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scottr

03-13-2005 05:54:30




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 Re: hay wagon body rebuild?? in reply to Scottr, 03-12-2005 16:39:28  
Thanks folks. You've given me what I need. I especially appreciate Dick's reply, about traction. Since I also have a woodlot and sawmill, I think I'm going with the top being crossways out of 2X material. Although I think I should use white oak for decay resistance, I'm a bit tempted to use poplar, because my white oak is precious to me as a cabinetmaker, and poplar is just secondary wood.



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Ibby

03-14-2005 02:53:23




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 Re: hay wagon body rebuild?? in reply to scottr, 03-13-2005 05:54:30  
Poplar is what I use. They last 8-10 years with no treatment or shelter, but be SURE to sweep ALL the chaff off each year. Chaff holding the moisture to the wood is what kills them. The solid 4X whatever is a lot better for main beams than 2-2X spiked together. Water gets between them and rots them faster. Since it's the main beams that give way first, I'm gonna try sawing some out of some creosoted light poles I got hold of. Also - put a 2x4 lengthways on each side, BOLTED down with 1/4 inch bolts to keep the individual planks from flexing. If you never-seize the bolts, you can use them over and over.

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Ibby

03-13-2005 04:45:41




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 Re: hay wagon body rebuild?? in reply to Scottr, 03-12-2005 16:39:28  
I have a sawmill and woodlot, so cost isn't a consideration. I found running 2x crossways to last longer on untreated wood than 1x running lengthwise. Less likely for a flaw in the board to give way when stepped on, too. This method also lowers the deck an extra inch or 2, making it easier if you're throwing bales up on it manually. I saw my main beams 4 x whatever it takes to get it above the tires when I put the cross planks on.

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Kelly C

03-12-2005 22:31:33




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 Re: hay wagon body rebuild?? in reply to Scottr, 03-12-2005 16:39:28  
third party image

The only real difference is price. I priced both way. Using 4x4s with 1x deck boards and just using 2x going across the stringers. Price came out about $70 cheaper to go with the 4x4 and deck boards.



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JMS/MN

03-13-2005 16:15:43




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 Re: hay wagon body rebuild?? in reply to Kelly C, 03-12-2005 22:31:33  
Your wagon is stronger than those who run 2x crosswise. They will sag a lot sooner than the one you made with the 4x4s underneath. Regarding traction, a 15/16 board is available, rough on one side, plus it's a bit stronger than one planed down to 3/4 inch. I would also recommend going to a triple stringer. I had a couple 140 bale throw racks that bowed over and needed extra 2x8 spacers put between.

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Kelly C

03-13-2005 21:17:08




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 Re: hay wagon body rebuild?? in reply to JMS/MN, 03-13-2005 16:15:43  
Sure hope I dont come back as a hay rack in my next life. They got a hard job.



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ChrisL

03-12-2005 19:12:15




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 Re: hay wagon body rebuild?? in reply to Scottr, 03-12-2005 16:39:28  
when you do the 4x6's every few feet then you can get by using only 1" lumber for the top and it does run the other direction - so it depends on what you jhave or can get cheaper - 1" boards for the top with the 4X4's (Usually what is used)
or no 4x4's and all 2" boards - I think if I make one it will use the deck boards 5/4" x 6" running across - simpler and makes a little closer to the ground

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Dick Davis

03-13-2005 04:40:04




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 Re: hay wagon body rebuild?? in reply to ChrisL, 03-12-2005 19:12:15  
When I was younger (and a lot lighter) fore and aft boards, when they got polished by sliding hay bales, provided insuficent tracton to load the rack especially on hilly ground. We preferred boards and spaces cross ways for foot traction. We built racks with 6"x6" stringers, 2" deck lumber cross ways to running gear and then bolted a 2"x6" fore and aft at the outside top edge of the deck to add strength / durability / retaining ledge to keep bales from sliding over the edge. My nickel Dick Davis

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