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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions)

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mikeinWA

01-28-2005 19:15:30




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Sounds like you obviously like the 71s, okay. Now i am wondering how you farm with them. My real question is this: We grow literally over 50 different crops, not including different varieties of each vegetable. Some we do from transplant but we still do alot of direct seeding. I know you have been following my other posts and know I want to reduce labor costs eg. thinning. Heres the issue, on a given day I might plant three varieties of lettuce, two of radishes, different greens etc. Each different variety requires either a plate change or at least dumping the hoppers to refill with a different variety of the same crop. You will have to trust me that I am not crazy to farm like this. It seems like the JD planters you recommend might be difficult to adjust in this manner. Advice? The deeper I get into this the more affordable vacuum seeders or continuing to thin becomes. Belt and plate prices would really add up in the system we use. Thanks for the help. I left my email open and would really like to hear about how you farm. I often feel like I am reinventing the wheel, and feel awkward at times seeking the advice of competiters in the area.

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greenbeanman in Kansas

01-31-2005 10:15:07




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 Flex 71/Yetter, Stanhay, Acra-plant openers in reply to mikeinWA, 01-28-2005 19:15:30  
I also have Stanhay planters. Mine are the model 740 units. They take very little seed to work properly, i.e. you don't need to over buy just to prime the hopper.

I have found them to be very accurate, but I still have a little problem with them working properly when there is much trash. The sugar beet growers have used them in the past, so I'm sure I'm just not on to properly adjusting them.

One thing I like about the Stanhay planter is that you can plant several lines side by side within each row. That is to say if you want three lines of lettuce or radishes within a three inch wide row, they can plant it that way with a 3 line opener.

This site will show the openers. Stanhay planters
Link

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hhf

01-29-2005 16:40:31




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 Re: Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions) in reply to mikeinWA, 01-28-2005 19:15:30  
Hi Mike. I"ve been reading your posts. We too grow veggies... 35-40 acre each year, all fresh market. I use planet jr. for green beans and red beets. We plat 4 kinds of leaf lettuce, all started in our greenhouse in 50 cell trays and then transplant. Like others have said, it produces great quality. We only row 1/8 acre of it each year for sale at a farmers mkt. The rest that we plant , we use a jd494 for sw. corn and a one row old Cole planter for squash, cukes and pumpkins. Hopefully we can all keep in touch. I know what you mean about being afraid to talk with others in your area, because sadly, there isn"t enough cooperation between us farmers like there used to be in the last generation. One of the reasons I read this board is due to the occasional veggie questions. Have a good day.

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riverbend

01-28-2005 21:18:28




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 Re: Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions) in reply to mikeinWA, 01-28-2005 19:15:30  
Yeah, I know, I feel bad giving you advice since I see your stuff in the stores in Minneapolis all the time. Actually, I think that we need more farmers not fewer.

After the Planet Jrs, the 70s were a revolution. Every other week I plant 24 rows of greens and radishes. On the in between weeks I plant 8 rows.

Changing the seed does require pulling the hopper off and dumping out the seed. One thumb screw holds the hopper on. Going from radishes to mustard requires changing the plate. The hopper is already off and there is just a spring clip that holds the floor plate shut. I have three different sized, 72 hole, seed plates to cover everything from radishes to turnips. The planter drives are all 1:1. I am thinking about picking up a set of 36 hole plates this year to double the spacing for turnips and rutabagas.

In my set up there are four planters on a toolbar. The first two are for arugula, next is one row of french breakfast and then one row of cherriette. Every week I do two passes of those. Every other week it is eight rows planted and back to the shed.

On the off weeks I do the 8 radishes and arugula, and then two varieties of broccoli raab, a red and a green mustard - one pass each way. Then I'll do a couple passes of pak choy, kale, turnip greens, or something else. In 24 rows, I'll stop to change seeds 3 times.

Peas and beans only get planted a couple of times during the season. Sweet corn all gets planted the same day.

Have you tried transplanting lettuce ? It works great. No thinning and the plants are two weeks ahead of the weeds.

I don't know if all that made sense, but I hope so. If not, send me an email. When I opened this message I did not see the 'reply' 'email' buttons in the top corner. I left mine open.

Crazy is being short handed and grading tomatoes all night.

Greg

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mikeinWA

01-29-2005 11:42:50




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 Re: Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions) in reply to riverbend, 01-28-2005 21:18:28  
How long are your rows? Most of our greens rows at three rows per bed are only 200ft. You say the planter drives are 1:1, I thought the 71s had adjustable rate by changing sprockets or pullys or something. But you are using 70s right, do you know if they are that different? Last conversation with eq. dealer led me to believe on the JD style planters I would have to unbolt hopper and remove drive chain each time I wanted to change seed or plates but we were talking model 71. Also have the chance to purchase a set of 33s but current owner says the same thing-hard to change the set up, that and seed plates run 100/ea.(yeah I know)

We do alot of transplanting in spring to get a jump on the season, at present we subcontract our starts to a local college @ about 10.00/flat, this year I think we ordered just under 300 flats. At that price I am not quite willing to put up a green house and quite fishing steelhead so I can spend February babysitting plant starts. We figure in two years the farm should pay for winter help but right now we don't put a crew together until May.

To compare what I have found:
-used three row Stanhay 800 series= $2250.00 (+ shoes and belts)
-used three row Planet Jr.= $1480.00 (+ shoes and brushes)
-new 1 row Matermacc Vacuum= $2400
-used 2 row JD 33s= $200.00 (+plates, toolbar etc)

Frankly the vacuum unit is starting to seem affordable when you take into consideration the accuracy and versatility. If I jump up to a two row vacuum the price almost triples because it requires a pto drive, the single row is a shop vac powered by alternater (75 amp. min.)Any thoughts?

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riverbend

01-29-2005 19:10:00




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 Re: Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions) in reply to mikeinWA, 01-29-2005 11:42:50  
Our rows are 300' long. Last year I sold about $20,000 worth of greens and radishes.

The drives are adjustable, but 1:1 lets me put any seed in any hopper without having to change the sprockets. Lazy, but there always seems to be more to do than time to do it. If anything, I might slow them all down a little to space the seeds out a little farther - I am leaving a little of each row unharvested each week. As it is, I am planting half the number of rows compared to using the Plantet Jrs, and selling as much (arugula)or more (radishes).

It looks like the major difference between the 70s and the 71s is that the 70s had more cast iron and a more primative way to set the depth. Which turns out to be moot point if you cough up the money for depth bands. David says that using the draft control on his IH 504 works very well too.

I don't know what your implement dealer is talking aboout. If you want, I can send you my manual for the 71s. You'll have to at least promise to send it back because it has a lot more information on set up, and options than the 70 manual. Last time I bought plates from Lincoln Ag., they were about $10 each with shipping, handling, and ordering less than 50.

I have not had a line wet in years. Good for you. Have them start a flat or two of lettuce per week for you. From a week or two before last frost, you could probably get away with just a cold frame. Transplants do need to be looked at twice a day. I do my own transplants because there is not much else to do during March and April.

I don't know anything about vacuum seeders. A one row planter would seem kind of annoying when there is a lot to do. Another local grower bought a four row vacuum seeder. He thought that he would pay for it is seed cost savings! He is much bigger than we are. I have not talked to him to see how it has worked out.

I'm basically cheap, and I like equipment that I can see is working. The 70s are simple, cheap, and reliable. I have had consistently good results with them. One thing about the 70s/71s is that they take at least an ounce of seed to make them work well.

Even if the 33s do take $100 seed plates, for the price difference, you could afford a few. Planet Jrs are basically a small seed drill. I don't miss mine. And they seem a little over priced. David sure likes his Stanhay.

Greg

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mikeinWA

01-30-2005 19:22:49




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 Re: Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions) in reply to riverbend, 01-29-2005 19:10:00  
Thanks again. Im going to head into my friendly neighborhood JD dealership tomorrow and try to make heads or tails of my options on the 71s. Can gardly remember, didyou say you seed sweet corn and beans also? I am still alittle nervous about versatility, we seed so many different crops crops on such a relatively small scale. I am beginning to take to heart all the suggestions on transplanting though. When I sat down to really look at where the thinning labor was going it is mostly lettuce, endive,corn and bulb fennel. If I cant find what I want at tthe dealer I might at lest beg you to scan some pages of your manual. In the mean time thanks everyone, this board is a real gem.
Mike

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riverbend

01-31-2005 07:39:16




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 Re: Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions) in reply to mikeinWA, 01-30-2005 19:22:49  
Planting corn and beans will take different seed hoppers or different hopper bottoms. I'm going to set up a couple of the 70's on a tool bar for corn and beans.

We transplant fennel too. Lincoln make 16 and 24 cell plates for corn. I use the 16s and it puts the plants about a foot apart. The cultivator thins them from there.

You might not have much luck with the JD dealer. 70s and 71s went out of fashion in the late 60s - early 70s. If it wasn't for a partsman named Charlie, our local JD dealer wouldn't be much help. The kids that work there havent ever even seen a 70/71 and probably wouldn't know which book to look in.

My planters came from a guy who sells used equipment and parts. It's not quite a junk yard, but close. The price was sure reasonable and everything still worked.

Let me know on the manual.

Greg

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mikeinWA

01-31-2005 11:52:47




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 Re: Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions) in reply to riverbend, 01-31-2005 07:39:16  
Arugula? Fennel? Next thing you'll tell me your planting radicchio. We must be marketing to a similar clientele. We do three farmers markets in Olympia and Seattle and have been growing a CSA membership for the past ten years. Always interested in what others are doing. To expand a little on what I mentioned before, Thurston Co. is a hot bed for small farms 9-11 in Thurston county alone, and I have to confess the competition is not cutthroat but a bit fierce. I tend to play my hand pretty close to my chest anymore, lessons learned, so its great to be able to trade ideas with growers outside the area. My local JD dealership sounds alot like yours, this time of year I can usually coax someone into an hour of research on schematics etc. Will keep you posted.
Mike

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riverbend

01-31-2005 17:20:57




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 Re: Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions) in reply to mikeinWA, 01-31-2005 11:52:47  
Radicchio will be new this year. I'm going to try two varieties from Johnny's, Fiero and Tauro. No CSA and no Farmer market.

I did CSA, but didn't like it. Even though we told them that they were sharing the risk of farming, it was too hard to tell them ' sorry, these cucumbers are going to the co-op.' David took over the CSA when he bought his own land. He likes it and does well.

We also did a farm stand. It was hard to pick things and either donate them or toss them when they did not sell.

I sell everything directly to the local food co-ops or to locally owned restaurants. Mpls /St Paul area has about a dozen food co-ops and several private natural food stores. There are also quite a few locally owned restaurants that buy as much locally as they can.

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Irv

01-30-2005 10:40:38




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 Re: Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions) in reply to riverbend, 01-29-2005 19:10:00  
Hi guys - very interested in this thread. I just bought a 470 planter. I am thinking of cutting it down to a 2 row. But I have a question - what is a depth band? Only used a ford 309 before. Irv



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riverbend

01-30-2005 19:23:58




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 Re: Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions) in reply to Irv, 01-30-2005 10:40:38  
A depth band is a like a round cake pan with a hole in the center. The band bolts on to the side of the opener disk and the diameter of the 'pan' sets how deep the disk can cut.



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Irv

01-30-2005 20:18:07




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 Re: Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions) in reply to riverbend, 01-30-2005 19:23:58  
Thanks - went back and read my manual. Speaking of manuals, you would reccommend getting a 71 operators manual or a 71 parts manual? And what do you think of going to a 2 row ? I have a 70 that I bought that is in beautiful shape. Even the fertilizer cans look mint. Its a 4 row, and all the big boys have 12 - 16 or even 24 row planters. These guys plant some fields several square miles. Irv



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riverbend

01-31-2005 07:45:24




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 Re: Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions) in reply to Irv, 01-30-2005 20:18:07  
I just have the 71 operators manual (and the 70 operators manual). When I bought my set up the guy that sold it said that it was a 71. When I got the manual, I saw that it was not. The 71 manual has a lot more information and shows more of the options that must have come out later. The 70 manual has 33 pages, the 71 has about 110.



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Irv

01-31-2005 08:59:32




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 Re: Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions) in reply to riverbend, 01-31-2005 07:45:24  
Thanks! Irv.



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BillKY

01-29-2005 14:24:55




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 Re: Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions) in reply to mikeinWA, 01-29-2005 11:42:50  
On the #70 and #71 Deere planters, there is no need to unhook any drive chains or sprokets to remove hoppers or change plates. The hoppers are removed with a couple thumb screws, and the plates are held in with flat spring clips. It"s about a 5 minute job to change plates. Hoppers can be taken off and emptied in a matter on minutes.

I"ve checked into the "small seed attachment" for the #71. John Deere has a total of 6 units in their entire "system". It"s part # AB17334. Requires one for each row unit. They list for $510 each. (OUCH!) Stainless steel plates are around $100 each, as has already been noted.

The National Farm Machinery Show is coming up in a couple weeks, here in Louisville. I SHOULD be able to attend. I"ll be investigating "other brands" of small seed planters there. I"ll pass on whatever I should find.

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paul

01-29-2005 14:14:35




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 Re: Hey Riverbend(more seeder questions) in reply to mikeinWA, 01-29-2005 11:42:50  
I don't know anything to help you, but really enjoy the thread. Enjoyable to see how other farming is done, look forward to more replies.

--->Paul



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