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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

john deere bailers

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dew

12-20-2004 16:01:11




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I need to know when 14t and 24t john deere bailers were made and what is the difference in them? I also need to know when 114t and 214t bailers were made and what is the difference in them as well? Also any ideas what I might pay for a "nice bailer"? I am located just across the border into south dakota from iowa.




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KMSD

12-22-2004 16:04:56




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 Re: john deere bailers in reply to dew, 12-20-2004 16:01:11  
Hey dew im located in the same area as you and i know where there are quite a few of those baler for sale if you are still looking for one



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BushogPapa

12-21-2004 09:35:51




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 Re: john deere bailers in reply to dew, 12-20-2004 16:01:11  
If you could find one of the old "side-winder" balers..you would be surprised about the capacity they had... They store in a small space, too... In good conditions, we could figure a bale every 5 to 6 plunger strokes at 70 pounds +...at 52 plunger strokes per minute....a lot of tonnage passes thru in an hour..!! I hope someone somewhere IS restoreing one...!!!



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George G

12-21-2004 12:29:14




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 Looks like someone did. in reply to BushogPapa, 12-21-2004 09:35:51  
third party image

We had two of them, one run off the PTO. The other run off a Wisconson engine. Then we got a 14T. Used the 14T for hay and the two Sidewinders for baling straw.



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BushogPapa

12-21-2004 15:08:46




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 Re: Looks like someone did. in reply to George G, 12-21-2004 12:29:14  
Sure...!!

If it can be crowded up the pick-up, it will feed it...!! Thanks..!! I havent seen any others in a Long time, and they were revolutionary..!! My folks showed JD how to splice the wire--instead of letting it un-thread every time it ran out of wire...!!! Between Mom, Dad and myself we estimated ours had baled 7.5 million bales--when we sold it to a fellow. I greased it and it was ready to bale, when I backed it on their trailer.... They didn't wear the transmission like the ones that had the plunger moveing forward and backward.. Sure made the JD "B" cackle..!! In later years we used a WD-45 on it..sometimes in 3rd gear...

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Leroy

12-21-2004 18:17:24




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 Re: Looks like someone did. in reply to BushogPapa, 12-21-2004 15:08:46  
I have 2 of the 116W balers and would like to know how you handled the wire. Mine are unrestored and just for show. One has the old style pickup and bale chamber and lever pickup lift, the other has new style pickup and bale chamber and fitted for hydrolic cylinder for pickup lift. I do have the after market wagon loading chutes.



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Bushogpapa

12-21-2004 19:33:47




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 Re: Looks like someone did. in reply to Leroy, 12-21-2004 18:17:24  
Have you ever had a problem breaking the chain sprocket at the second rotating feed..?? If so, check the Pins in the lower pickup...the cotter pins will eventually wear, and let the pin work part way out and cause the sprocket to break..we had a real "time" finding that problem.! They would always look ok, when we checked them..!! When I finally pulled them, I saw what the problem was...it was at the end nearest the PTO...

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BushogPapa

12-21-2004 19:28:21




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 Re: Looks like someone did. in reply to Leroy, 12-21-2004 18:17:24  
Does yours have 2 coils of wire, or 4..??

Ours had 4....I am not sure about the ones with 2 coils.... With 4 coils, you had to let the baler stop as it tied a bale..with the needles part way up... You pull about 3 feet or so of wire out from the coil and cut it off--then tie it to the cross-bar at the bottom of the needles...Put the NEW coil at this time, but you don't hook it up yet... Roll the baler over with the PTO or with the flywheel, until the needles are down... Cut and remove the wire that is threaded in that needle, and thread the wire from the new coil thru the rollers in the needle, and tie the 2 ends together--each with the tail wrapped BACK on Itself, and the end bent back toward the know...this knot will lot come untied... This knot is tied up near the bale chamber..so the knot does not have to go thru any rollers.. As for the top coils, you pull extra wire up from between the knotter and the tensions chute... Cut it off, replace the coil and thread the wire thru the guide and knotter, and tie the knot... Remember, each wire is wrapped Back on Itself, with the ends turned back toward the center of the knot, so it will "cinch" when pulled tight.. You should only loose about 5 ft of wire, if you catch it just at the end of each coil...less, from the top coils...

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Leroy

12-23-2004 06:55:00




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 Re: Looks like someone did. in reply to BushogPapa, 12-21-2004 19:28:21  
The older one is the better baler and when I got it I baled possibly a dozen bales and the old wires broke and I never tried rethreading it, the newer one I have just run without anything in the bale chamber. Both setting outside now since I lost the other farm and have no place to put most of my machinery



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James2

12-21-2004 08:03:32




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 Re: john deere bailers in reply to dew, 12-20-2004 16:01:11  
The 24T has a couple more slip clutches than the 14T, keeps from shearing more pins. I think one is on the pickup and the other is on the cross feed auger. These are desirable. I have a very good 24T which I bought for $500. We had a NH and later a MassyF (Dad had that is) and I believe this 24T has significantly less capacity. I have resharpened the knifes and reshimmed the plunger on the 24T with only small improvements. I only bale straw (and not very much of that either) so it really isn't that big of an issue. However if I did much baling I would have a something else; ie, a model number with three digits and probably a NH. I thought the next newer JD model was a 224T rather than a 214T. My personal opinion is that despite it's reputation of structurally too light, I would not buy anything JD older than the 224 or 214, which ever is the correct designation. Nobody seems to like the older IH models. I have a friend with an old, well cared for 45, whom gets along fine.

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M Nut

12-21-2004 06:02:35




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 Re: john deere bailers in reply to dew, 12-20-2004 16:01:11  
JD 14T is an ok baler. If it's for a couple hundred bales a year, then fine. Price around $500 for a working baler. 24T better. I baled 1500 bales a year with one for about 10 years. Price around $800 for working one. If more than this, bump to the next series which was a 336. I have one of these with a #40 thrower, and it works wonderful. Price around $3000 for a nice one.



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buickanddeere

12-21-2004 03:59:34




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 Re: john deere bailers in reply to dew, 12-20-2004 16:01:11  
The best way to find the specs and purchase what suits your needs. Is to 1st purchase the operator's manuals direct from Mother Deere cheap at 1-800-522-7448. And then after making your purchase you will be able to set those knotters so they rarely miss a bale. A Deere baler properly setup makes a neat square bale



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ChrisL

12-20-2004 19:30:40




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 Re: john deere bailers in reply to dew, 12-20-2004 16:01:11  
So where are u at in South Dakota - I live just north of Beresford - drive to Sioux City to work a few days a week -

I might know where I could get a IH 37 baler - always shedded, medium well cared for, small capacity baler, but never tied worth a crap



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KMSD

12-22-2004 16:08:31




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 Re: john deere bailers in reply to ChrisL, 12-20-2004 19:30:40  
Hey i live just east of beresford and would be interested in the IH baler ive been looking for small square to replace my case...



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Tim(nj)

12-20-2004 16:55:54




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 Re: john deere balers in reply to dew, 12-20-2004 16:01:11  
There"s no such animal as a 114T. There was the 114W wire baler where the bale chamber was transverse instead of longitudinal on the machine, but one of those would be a collector"s item, not a working baler.



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RickL

12-20-2004 16:38:37




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 Re: john deere bailers in reply to dew, 12-20-2004 16:01:11  
dew; prices will vary widely. 14t was earlier than the 24t. just later series. I dont have my old spec book now. So exact details can't give till it comes back. But here is some starting prices in my area 14t for $550 unit always shedded,internationl 45 new needles good unit $1100.00 and can go up from their. rough ones in my area now is couple hundred dollars. Used to be 50 to 75 dollars.



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RickL

12-20-2004 16:38:12




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 Re: john deere bailers in reply to dew, 12-20-2004 16:01:11  
dew; prices will vary widely. 14t was earlier than the 24t. just later series. I dont have my old spec book now. So exact details can't give till it comes back. But here is some starting prices in my area 14t for $550 unit always shedded,internationl 45 new needles good unit $1100.00 and can go up from their. rough ones in my area now is couple hundred dollars. Used to be 50 to 75 dollars.



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txblu

12-22-2004 11:44:20




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 Re: john deere bailers in reply to RickL, 12-20-2004 16:38:12  
My 24T was $700 a couple of years ago. Was shedded, little if any rust and the owner knew what it was and how to use a grease gun. Had to repair nothing for the first year. Second year a tire and brake shoes (needle stops) and that was it.

Mark



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T213R

12-20-2004 19:46:40




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 Any price for an IHC 45t is too much in reply to RickL, 12-20-2004 16:38:12  
even if it is scrap price! Those balers are the worst balers ever made, by anyone!



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RickB

12-20-2004 16:49:39




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 Re: john deere bailers in reply to RickL, 12-20-2004 16:38:12  
I figure you are reading from some local ad, but "International 45 baler" and "good unit" are mutually exclusive terms. Just couldn't let that slip by..... ....



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RickL

12-20-2004 16:54:40




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 Re: john deere bailers in reply to RickB, 12-20-2004 16:49:39  
RickB; Actually that was mistake typing good unit was suppose to follow JD unit. the IH unit is just available at that price.



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