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Yes, that's what a retired welder in Smiths Falls, Slim Parsons, told me today. I stopped to see him with the plough aboard. He thought he had some points that would do. He looked at the 3pt hitch carry-all frame on the trailer and warned me that I would need a stabilizer bar on the 3pt hitch if I use it. The sway back and forth of a load will break something, otherwise. Then I got looking at the articulating wood and gravel-hauler he has built using an old Wisconson engine, the rear end out of a Ford Cobra with tractor tires about 34" high, and a 1 yard box built of steel on its own axle. I think he is using power steering pumps off an old backhoe for the steering, and has two long cylinders along the box for the dump. The thing will go 15 miles per hour and has a spreader tailgate like a dump truck. He's currently putting a cage on it to protect his grandson from brush. Anyway, Slim thinks that the plough should work just fine in local soils with a MF35. He says I won't need a tip-up plough if I take my time. The tractor will stop and spin if it hits an obstruction without much damage unless I am going too fast. He further told me that trailer-type ploughs are becoming scarce because the ploughing match guys keep buying them up because it is so much easier to do a good job on a plot with a trailer plough than with a 3pt hitch model. I didn't know about that, but recall seeing quite a few trailers in competition at the International Match, 2003 in Carleton Place, Ontario. Anyway, thanks for the advice on the plough. I guess I'll polish up the molboards (sp?) and paint it.
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