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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Fertilizer question

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Kelly C

10-04-2004 19:07:03




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Trying to figure out what to do next year.
2nd cutting was a joke. 25 acres and maybe 200 bales off it.
I am sure the lack of heat was a issue but still had plenty of rain.
Tried to buy some Nitration fertilizer after 1st cutting but they were all out.
I am thinking about putting some on in the spring and buying enough bags for the 2nd cutting at the same time.
Will that stuff stay ok in the shed for a month?
I guess I need to make friends with a farmer with some extra poop.

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Hay Dr

10-06-2004 07:04:21




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 Re: Fertilizer question in reply to Kelly C, 10-04-2004 19:07:03  
Soil Test first it will save you money. Likely you will need 3 tones of lime per acre just to get the PH back in the Neutral direction.



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paul

10-06-2004 08:46:58




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 Re: Fertilizer question in reply to Hay Dr, 10-06-2004 07:04:21  
I keep forgetting about lime, as my location is a limestone base, no one uses the stuff around 'here'. If Kelly is in the acid woodlands soils up north, it's certainly something to consider! If he is in the prairie soils yet, worth testing but he likely won't need any.

--->Paul



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JMS/MN

10-06-2004 10:18:16




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 Re: Fertilizer question in reply to paul, 10-06-2004 08:46:58  
He's about a half hour north of TC. East Central lighter soils. I'm an hour west, nw, on clay ground, and like you, don't normally need lime. A ten dollar soil test will indicate what is needed for the particular crop. I certainly wouldn't put X tons of anything on without a test first. I figure specific internet advice on fertilizer, herbicides, or electrical issues are of no value- too many variables across the country and world.

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Jerry/MT

10-05-2004 20:08:15




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 Re: Fertilizer question in reply to Kelly C, 10-04-2004 19:07:03  
Take a good soil sample and get it tested. Pay attention to the soil pH too.(If the pH is too high or too low, soil nutrients won't be avilable to the plants.)The soil test will usually come with fertilizer recommendations based on your yield targets. Then follow 'em.



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punchie

10-05-2004 15:26:58




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 Re: Fertilizer question in reply to Kelly C, 10-04-2004 19:07:03  
HI Kelly C

I use 34-00-00 (storeage I store it for years sometimes must be in bags and out of the weather.) No rain needed no need to plow in , should be none before a good rain would be better.
Rate : 50-60 lbs. /acre For second cut grass Takes two week to green up the field hield is about 15 -
20 bales more to the acre (600-800 lbs. ).

Alalfa is different, must be taking care of right would need to soil test and go from there.

Watch using too much N . You can get in the crop and posion the animals that you would be feeding. Better to go thought and do it for each cutting

P and K should be done once a year, like a 8-32-16; 6-
24-24; 10-20-20 high numbers if your putting on do it once , use less to handling 250/400 acre

One thing to remember is the thicker the hay harder to make. 140-150 bale to acre 1st cut is hard to dry and bale.
I aim for 100 1st. , 20 -50 2nd, same for cutting after etc.

Have A Good One !!

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punchie

10-06-2004 15:26:49




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 Re: Fertilizer question in reply to punchie, 10-05-2004 15:26:58  
HI Again Kelly

They are right on about soil test and PH

Here are a few way to see what your PH is.

1st. soil test , Good but not perfect. Go go around and test about 10 -20 places and mix it up, screen it, and what do you have, a mixed up mixture at best, a guess, in the ball park , but still not correct. Now if you have a level field and same soil through out, that test is Very Good. WE have a sand stone loam with a clay sup- base. But there are places it is very stoney and allot of clay in others, can change in 100' one to the other etc. not at all the same soil throught out.

SO saying all that. 2ND I use a PH tester and flags, yellow if it tests below 6.2 and pink if it test below 6.0 . The flags are used as a guide for the truck driver or the person spreading. Now following the directions no short cuts. The one I have you must use water and mix up a mortar like mud and test . But I was thinking and talking asking around if I can just do it after a good wet rain. Ground is muddy and should work, WRONG LOL I got it all wrong the ph . The 3 acres all tested 6.2- 6.8 good enough get by and line this fall . Not so the nice rain must have been sweet or something for I planted 3 acres of alfalfa and 6 weeks later retest to see why it was turning yellow and well the ph after following the directions tested 5.3 - 5.8 too low for alfalfa.

3 rd way I know of is to spot plant red clover, see if it grows your around what it should be for grass, if your to plant alfalfa better put a ton or two to acre of lime.

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Leland

10-05-2004 14:51:56




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 Re: Fertilizer question in reply to Kelly C, 10-04-2004 19:07:03  
Are you near a city that knifes treated sludge into area farmland ,if so this would be cheap and a simple way to do this. have done a few pastures for farmers this way turned out great. when we shot poop into soil the grass shot up.



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Fighting suburbia in NC

10-06-2004 10:30:39




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 Re: Fertilizer question in reply to Leland, 10-05-2004 14:51:56  
There is a concern with the use of municipal sludge as fertilizer or amendment - you had better be checking to see if there are high levels of certain heavy metals before deciding to use it. This is especially pertinent if there is a heavy industry base feeding into the local waste water treatment plant. The treatment plant should have sample reports on hand, or you can get a sample and send to your state ag department for analysis.

NC is touting its agronomic testing capabilities for everything from soil testing to tissue sampling to mulch analysis (mulch mainly for horticulture applications) and highly recommends getting a base profile of a field/area before application, an analysis of what is going to be applied, and follow-up testing to see what happens in the long run.

The state lab just happens to be conveniently accessible for me and JerryD due to our location but each state has a fairly convenient send-in-a-sample program available that everybody should take advantage of.

Tissue sampling is fairly new but there was an article int he newspapaer here this past Sunday about one tobacco farmer that started using tissue sampling during harvest and ended up with the best crop he had ever had in the barn. He was also able to save significant dollars on fertilizing because he started soil samples early and only fed as needed versus his traditional scheduled program.

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Leland

10-06-2004 15:42:38




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 Re: Fertilizer question in reply to Fighting suburbia in NC, 10-06-2004 10:30:39  
That is why I put treated sludge,still some metals but could not use it on food crops like popcorn. but you could use it on regular corn that goes straight to ADM to be processed into what?Food but we would knife over a million gals a day for 3 months every fall and no complaints yet.



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kyhayman

10-05-2004 06:34:26




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 Re: Fertilizer question in reply to Kelly C, 10-04-2004 19:07:03  
What JMS/MN, Roy, and Paul said :-). Look at prices, I normally lock in right after first of the year but this year I locked in muriate yesterday. Price is up $40 per ton and climbing daily. They wont let me lock in N prices yet but I'm expecting to be lucky to get ammonium nitrate at $250 a ton in January.



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Roy in UK

10-05-2004 01:44:55




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 Re: Fertilizer question in reply to Kelly C, 10-04-2004 19:07:03  
Do you mean Ammonium Nitrate or Urea? Whatever,if it is in sealed bags it will keep for ages.



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JMS/MN

10-04-2004 23:32:08




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 Re: Fertilizer question in reply to Kelly C, 10-04-2004 19:07:03  
I know that you are north of the Metro area, but it shouldn't be too far to a fertilizer plant. Fall is a great time to do soil sampling, gives you and them plenty of time to decide on a program for next year. Another option is with your county Extension Agent, and the U of M testing lab. Local private soil service should be able to test, advise, apply this fall. Either one or two applications per year works fine- one is ok, two spreads out the billing. With your work schedule, I'd go with a bulk spreader- they can handle 30-50 acres per hour with your tractor.

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paul

10-04-2004 20:15:14




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 Re: Fertilizer question in reply to Kelly C, 10-04-2004 19:07:03  
I'll assume grass hay, no alfalfa or clover?

What kind of soils are you on? If clay, you can maybe put it all on & be done with it. If sand, then splitting is much better. N likes to gas off if it doesn't get incorporated in some forms (like with a rain within 24 hours) so what are you putting on & when?

Are you getting any P & K on there as well? Need to maintain those as well. Could probably put those on now yet. N you are in a bad time, too cold for the grass to use it, too warm for it to sit over winter in the soil...

Around here, for 25 acres you call the coop, & eith pick up a spinner & apply yourself, or let them do it. Costs a couple bucks an acre for the spinner, but much cheaper in bulk that buying bagged fertilizer.

A fellow called 'Hay Wilson' over at>Link

Those salts really like water, I'd not want to store real long - depends on where & how you store it....

--->Paul

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