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I had one of the first bigger ones (1034) in this area. Saw them up in Canada and decided that was the system for me. They work as well (or better) than they appear to but it does take some learning. If I had it to do over I would have bought a 1033. Only tried single bale unload once, still too much hand labor and the 1033's reset faster going to the field plus dont have that huge cylinder to maintain. What I have learned, bales must be TIGHT. I had to go to a 36" bale b/c my density is so much higher now than it was when I was hand stacking 40" bales. Gates need to be 16' at least (you can theoretically use a 14' gate but you better hit it right). Overhead is important, I think the book says 12.5 but, unless it is absolutely level with no old hay and such go 13.5. Been using them for 5 years now. Bale consistency is critical. Never used the balers you refer to. As long as you can keep a straight, uniform length bale of high denisty should be ok. My 1034 was built in the mid 70's?? seemed to be ok, not many moving parts, mostly hydraulic valves and flowing oil. My first year learning curve was pretty steep. On that subject, they are terrain sensitive. Most of our hay land here is B-D slopes. I try to stay off the C and for sure the D slopes with it, hard to keep the stacks in the load rack going down hill. A and B slopes, you can make good time. I typically load in under 20 minutes, ever how long to shuttle to the barn, and then back. Unload time is 5 mins tops. By myself, raking, baling, and stacking I normally get 800 bales a day. For each person I can add I can increase production significantly. My record is 1500 bales in a day (11 am- 9 pm). Unlike hired help, it shows up on time, doesn't have to quit early for a date, doesn't get injured on the job (at least not to affect your insurance). With $300 in spare parts short of a pump, I keep one of them too, thats about $500) and a torch/welder you can practically rebuild one in a couple of hours.
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