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Moldboard or disc?

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Tyler(WA)

09-15-1999 09:14:20




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I plan to plant up to 2 acres next year. I'll be doing the produce thing in new ground.

I have a MF-135.
What "tools" should I get first? A moldboard plow or disc plow? What are the advantages/disadvantages? Is there any secret to cultivators? Things to look for?

What should I expect to pay for each?




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Dave in Mo

09-20-1999 10:17:28




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 Re: Moldboard or disc? in reply to Tyler(WA), 09-15-1999 09:14:20  
With our little 8N we drag an old JD 14" two bottom moldboard plow to bust up the soil in the Spring. We leave the corn stalks up all winter 'cause when the cold wind blows in January, I've seen the deer eat the stalks off the ground. We only put in 2-3 acres but I've found our plow and 6' double row 3pt disc work real well. You can crunch the ground up as fine as you want with the disc depending on how many passes you make. In 3rd gear we're moving pretty good so it doesn't take long. I'm sure you could pick up a used plow for about $200. Heck, you probably don't even need coulter wheels on it if the ground has been busted up the last couple of years. Plowing near tree roots is always scarey so be careful on the the field edges. I've cut roots with the plow as big as my arm and did not enjoy it. One day I hope to buy a subsoiler to do this right. I bought a new 12" dia disc (2 rows of 12) for $400 because I didn't see any decent 3pt one's around. It will weigh plenty so make sure your lift is okay. Your MF 135 should have plenty of grunt to handle these chores.

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B.C.

09-17-1999 06:40:09




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 Re: Moldboard or disc? in reply to Tyler(WA), 09-15-1999 09:14:20  
Depending on how much trash, tall grass and so on you have on your ground,and how deep you need to tear things up for whatever you're gonna plant, you could get a 3 pt hitch cultivator and use that for a field cultivator.

You would want fresh shovels on it. Many times we did that up in central Wisconsin in sandy loam soil instead of plowing and it worked fine. Had to go over it a few times from different directions, and progressively deeper. Depending on how you're gonna plant, you may then want to drag it.

If that's adequate, then you're pretty much set for cultivating. You set the teeth back on the cultivator to row spacing, and add shields if necessary, and away you go.

If the soil is really compacted then I'd say go for a moldboard plow, although I know out west they did like disc plows.

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paul

09-17-1999 01:30:16




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 Re: Moldboard or disc? in reply to Tyler(WA), 09-15-1999 09:14:20  
If you meand a real 'disk plow', they work well in certain soils, but the molboard plow is, in most cases, the better choice.

If you mean a regular 'disc', you would probably be happiest with both the plow & the disk.

I'd want at least a plow, disk (or field cultivator), and a harrow (aka drag) to prep soil.

If you can only have one, the disk can possibly do the job, while the plow will leave the soil too rough to plant in.

--->Paul

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Gerald J.

09-15-1999 14:31:09




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 Re: Moldboard or disc? in reply to Tyler(WA), 09-15-1999 09:14:20  
It often takes both a moldboard plow and a disk to work up a seed bed. Then a field cultivator to finish. But by making multiple passes you can make a row cultivator do the field cultivator task, just push it a little deeper.

Classically (according to JD's book on using farm equipment) you chop up a couple inches on top with the disk, then turn that under and crumble the plowed ground with the disk. If you did enough before plowing you get the two regions to mix. I've found a disking of corn stalks has been important to not plugging the 2 bottom plow behind my MF-135. The three point disks I've seen and owned were too light to be of any benefit at all. I made one that works super. Don't use it or the plow anymore since I've gone to a bigger tractor with bigger disk and plow. I could be talked out of them. I'm in central Iowa.

Gerald J.

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