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Ray in Pa.
07-02-2004 21:19:59
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Re: Re: Re: IH 37 Baler in reply to steve, 07-02-2004 04:28:53
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Bob G. and Steve, The way the knots on my bales showed that the knots were tied incomplete was by that the front facing part of bale's twine would pull straight down out of knot when lifting the bale of the ground, OR more often than not, the bale would come apart even before exiting the baler. The twine running along top length of bale always had the single loop knot left when it pulled apart from front of bale twine. Tightening the knotter hook will not correct the problem due to the fact that it is not tying right due to being alittle late, or to be more precise, it does not complete its full rotation enough in time to grab the twine. I was amazed when I discovered that this is mainly due to the slightest bit of wear on the gear on end of knotter hook shaft, mine actually looks new, but yet it was enough to cause knotter hook to lag about 1/32" in rotation. What you should do first is to very, very slowly (and just alittle bit at a time) hand rotate your baler by its flywheel thru its tying phase to watch the tying action. You will notice the knotter hook will lag in closing (kind of hang open too long of time) and not grab the twine right before it is cut. The way I fixed mine was that I first loosen the knotter hook spring tension alittle and then remove the bolt that holds knotter frame assembly. Then I slow rotated by hand the whole knotter frame assembly up around onto top, and into area of no gear teeth section of the big gear. I carefully watched the knotter hook rotate itself thru the gear tooth section of the big gear and as I did this, I kept track of when the knotters hook cam rotates fully one revolution and stops in the low spot of the knotter frame. NOTE; If you carefully keep tension by hand on knotter hook to imitate tying pressure on knotter hook, as you do this, you should notice that the knotter hook cam will not drop in to position properly to allow the closing of knotter hook. What the problem is that needs corrected, is that the casting flat will need to be ground back by grinding tool to allow knotter hook cam to drop into the frame low spot sooner. To do this, you must remove the tension spring, cam tension plate and its bolt off knotter hooks frame. You will have to hold knotter hook frame in such away so as to be able to grind just enough metal to allow cam to clear and drop in properly. I used a dremel grinder with a long, skinny carbide rasp type of bit and ground back the casting flat around 1/32" for sooner knotter hook cam closing point. Fortunatly the knotter hooks starting postion will not be effected by this modification since it it controlled by the flat on the big gear. Basicly you want to grind just enough to allow the free closing of knotter hook when its under heavy tying pressure. When grinding, Just make sure to grind the flat as smooth as possible without hitting the knotter hook or its cam and to flush knotter hook assembly off with cleaner to remove abrassive grinding debris and relube. Thanks, Ray in Pa.
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