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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Changing riveted teeth on sickle knife

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Dave H (MI)

06-23-2004 17:58:07




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I have a bad tooth on the knife in my JD sickle mower. I know these are riveted on and I am pretty sure I remember my old neighbor out in the field with a hammer and a section of train rail (anvil) fixing his but I have never done it. Was wondering if someone could walk me thru removing the broken tooth and attaching the new one.




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Don-Wi

06-25-2004 23:04:14




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 Re: Changing riveted teeth on sickle knife in reply to Dave H (MI), 06-23-2004 17:58:07  
Im surprised nobody suggested using bolts instead! Personally we use rivets and everyone has that right. Best to take the sickle out. Some models are simpler than others when it comes to this. Donovan from Wisconsin



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Hugh MacKay

06-25-2004 23:47:47




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 Re: Re: Changing riveted teeth on sickle knife in reply to Don-Wi, 06-25-2004 23:04:14  
Don: I really wonder how many people are actually using bolts. The rivit stays tight because you swell it to fill the hole. There is an art to good riviting. Those $50. tools are just a waste of money. Do the riviting with a hammer on the anvil or other hard surface.

As Jim King is describing removing knife sections on the vise. I know I could change rivited sections just as fast as bolts. I always had a vise and a rail mounted right on haybine.

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Chuck, WA

06-28-2004 07:55:10




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 Re: Re: Re: Changing riveted teeth on sickle knife in reply to Hugh MacKay, 06-25-2004 23:47:47  
I'm new at this, so don't claim to be an expert. However, after grinding the heads off the rivets the first time or two, Mom (82 years old and recalling how Dad did it) told me about putting the bar edge on a hunk of railroad rail and hitting the back edge with a hammer to shear off the rivets, and it worked so slick, I'll never grind another.

However, taking advice from this forum some time ago, I bought a box of bolts (with matching lock nuts) to replace the rivets.

Regarding your comment about the rivets filling the hole tightly, the bolts have what looks like a straight knurl just under the pan head for about 1/4 inch along the shank, matching the thickness of the bar, and making the bolt a light drive fit in the hole, or just draw them in when you tighten the lock nut that comes with the bolts. Slick!

I respect those of you who have the experience at using rivets, but I see no reason to develop the skill (or buy the tool) after seeing how easy and effective the bolts are. Of course, this applies to the bolts made for the job, not just any bolt out of the misc. bolts bin, just as it would apply to using the right rivet for the job. :)

Chuck, WA

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JMS/MN

06-24-2004 22:05:27




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 Re: Changing riveted teeth on sickle knife in reply to Dave H (MI), 06-23-2004 17:58:07  
If you don't want to pull the sickle out of the mower, there is another way to replace the section, using a hydraulic jack and a homemade tool. Works on a mower, moco, etc. Homemade tool is a piece of pipe that fits over a hydraulic jack, with a smaller pipe welded inside, just smaller than the rivet diameter. That 'pipe' could also be a shaft with a large hole drilled through it, to let the old rivet drop through. Set that under the cutterbar, centered on the rivet. Grind off the top of the rivet. Use a punch to drive the rivet down. To hammer the new rivet in, set the jack underneath (like a railroad iron base), and with a ball pein hammer, clinch the new rivet in place. By moving the sicklebar, you can do both rivets. If you want to do the repair in the field- sans a grinder- buy the tool the others describe, because the tool punches out the old rivet and puts in the new one. (Other field option is to carry a good chisel to cut the old rivet). The tool is a lifetime purchase, as long as you get one with the replaceable punches, because you will occasionally break one. (If you don't tighten the tool enough). Bought mine in the late 70s, still get the punches at JD or farm stores for under $4. Either system works.

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Dave H (MI)

06-24-2004 14:03:04




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 Re: Changing riveted teeth on sickle knife in reply to Dave H (MI), 06-23-2004 17:58:07  
Thanks guys!



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Gary in Mozarks

06-24-2004 01:16:14




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 Re: Changing riveted teeth on sickle knife in reply to Dave H (MI), 06-23-2004 17:58:07  
Ive never been able to bring myself to spend the 50 dollars for one of those tools. If you can pull your knife bar out, place it on your anvil and just grind or chisel off the heads and drive out the rivit. Replace with new rivits. It sometimes helps to use two punches, one pointed to start it, and one flat slightly smaller than the rivits.



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Jimmy King

06-24-2004 11:33:59




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 Re: Re: Changing riveted teeth on sickle knife in reply to Gary in Mozarks, 06-24-2004 01:16:14  
With the sickle out of the mowerlay the section strip with the section pointing down on some thing solid, hit the back side of section with a hammer and it will shear the rivits off then take a punch and knock the rivit out of the strip. Always point the section down and keep you foot out from under it. This is much quicker and easier than using a chisel or grinder.



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Wil

06-23-2004 20:31:11




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 Re: Changing riveted teeth on sickle knife in reply to Dave H (MI), 06-23-2004 17:58:07  
Dave,

They make a special combination rivet tool for removing and re-installing rivets. They are about $50 around here at the farm stores. They are very nice and easy to use. You use the one end to drive the old rivets down with and than turn it around and use the other end to install the new ones. You use a wrench to turn each end down. Here is a link that shows what they look like. It is on the 2nd page.

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Wil

06-23-2004 20:32:19




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 Re: Re: Changing riveted teeth on sickle knife in reply to Wil, 06-23-2004 20:31:11  
Let's try that link again it is:

http://www.burnsindustrial.com/fordsec-7.pdf



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john *.?-!.* cub owner

06-23-2004 19:26:42




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 Re: Changing riveted teeth on sickle knife in reply to Dave H (MI), 06-23-2004 17:58:07  
Set the sickle with the rail of the sickle resting on the edge of something solid (anvil, train rail, heavy piece of steel, etc.) with the ends of the sections pointing down. Use a large hammer (2 or 3 pounds) to drive the section straight down shearing the rivets. Use a punch to drive the sheared rivets out of the sickle rail. When reinstalling rivets hit them hard so they swell in the holes.

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