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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Howard Rotavator Bolts

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Carl (MI)

06-11-2004 08:29:42




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I've heard the bolts for Howard Rotavator blades are very expensive and one friend says I should use them while another says that hard bolts (8 hardness) are better and cheaper. Any other opinions? Also, are the C blades better in rocky soil than the L blades?




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PWOG

06-13-2004 18:48:28




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 Re: Howard Rotavator Bolts in reply to Carl (MI), 06-11-2004 08:29:42  
I'll get some flak on this but I have a Howard tiller in 5ft size and have learned to re-use the Howard bolts. Normally, I buy everything new and first quality. Did that with the Howard bolts because owners manual says so. Saved the old bolts for the heck of it. Started to re-use them with new gr 8 lock washers, squeeze nuts and Loc-Tite and have never had a problem. Had heavy rocky soil, clay, sand and in-between and never-never-a problem. Just my personal experience.

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Robert in W. Mi

06-12-2004 14:50:03




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 Re: Howard Rotavator Bolts in reply to Carl (MI), 06-11-2004 08:29:42  
Carl,

The Howard bolts may be expensive, but they ARE of good quality too. I buy grade 8 bolts from a place that sells "quality" bolts, that means NO TSC or other farm store!!! Been there regretted that, later on!!!!

Anyway, experence has taught me to buy good bolts and "crimpted" lock nuts!!! Then use red lock tite along with the crimpted nuts!!! I do NOT use any washers of any kind! NEVER reuse any old bolts!! Always put new ones on no matter how good the old bolts/nuts look!

As for the blades, the curved last longer because the L blades wear in the bend more, and then break easier in that spot. I only buy C blades these days.

Hope this helps,

Robert

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Carl (MI)

06-13-2004 05:41:43




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 Re: Re: Howard Rotavator Bolts in reply to Robert in W. Mi, 06-12-2004 14:50:03  
Robert,

Why not lock washers? I ask because the local New Holland dealer claimed they were superior to lock nuts. My father convinced me to test grade 5 bolts. The reason is that I actually want them to break before anything else. I don't have a shaft clutch on the PTO because this is an old small Rotavator on a small tractor. If I add a universal clutch on the PTO the shaft will either bind or come apart. Thanks for the info on the C-blades.

Carl

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Robert in W. Mi

06-14-2004 11:03:58




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 Re: Re: Re: Howard Rotavator Bolts in reply to Carl (MI), 06-13-2004 05:41:43  
Hey guys,

Do them anyway you want, i'm just telling what i've learned from doing custom rotavateing for the last 20 years. Wish someone would have told me the same info 20 years ago!!!

No slip clutch???? Better have an "in the drive line" shear bolt then, as those grade 5 bolts are just going to cost you BIG money before your all done!!!

Robert



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Carl (MI)

06-17-2004 08:33:25




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Howard Rotavator Bolts in reply to Robert in W. Mi, 06-14-2004 11:03:58  
Nope, no slip clutch and no shear bolt. Maybe I should just use cheap hardware store bolts to protect the PTO drive line. I sure don't want to shorten the PTO shaft.

Carl



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paul

06-13-2004 12:57:15




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 Re: Re: Re: Howard Rotavator Bolts in reply to Carl (MI), 06-13-2004 05:41:43  
Lock washers are the weakest link. They are a split piece of metal, and can ooze out of the connection, leaving the bolt loose. They only have 1 little edge of metal to bite into the metal of the nut, and if the nut is hard don't bite well.

They work just fine on 100's of gr2 bolt situations (I use them allt he time), but not if you need really superior high-grade bolting.

--->Paul



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