Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Wisconsin engine NH 66 baler questions

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
brent

06-10-2004 19:44:54




Report to Moderator

Sorry for the long post - lots of questions!

We have an old NH 66 baler with a Wisconsin engine on it. We were going to remove the engine, and get the clutch and parts to run it off the PTO. But, some folks wanted to borrow it and use it as a stationary baler. So, here we go trying to get it going.

The engine is a 2 cyl air cooled unit. We already had the magneto rebuilt, so it's in good shape. It was really hard to time the magneto when we put it back together - the timing mark on the drive gear (meshing with the magneto gear) was not obviously apparent at all. Should we be looking for a punched hole, a score mark, two punched holes on adjacent teeth, or what?

One of the intake valves is stuck. Anyone have any luck getting valves un-stuck without removing the head? I was thinking of soaking the area with penetrating oil, and gently tapping the valve closed, and letting the cam open it back up. Any other ideas?

The fuel line keeps loosing its prime - is the most likely culprit a leaky fuel line fitting? Is the fuel pump supposed to be able to prime the pump by that little hand lever? (it's a real pain!)

What's the best way to start these things - just keep turning the hand wheel?

Lastly, is it possible to mount the PTO clutch stuff on the flywheel, and be able to use the baler as either PTO-driven or engine-driven? Has anyone ever done that?

Thanks in advance...

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Jim in michigan

06-12-2004 05:38:03




Report to Moderator
 Re: Wisconsin engine NH 66 baler questions in reply to brent, 06-10-2004 19:44:54  
I started mine by putting a belt on the motor and running the belt to the belt pulley on my tractor,,worked great,,,Jim



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Dick

06-12-2004 04:15:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: Wisconsin engine NH 66 baler questions in reply to brent, 06-10-2004 19:44:54  
Email [email protected] and Tim maybe able to help you with Wisconsin parts.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
chief 83

06-11-2004 20:27:33




Report to Moderator
 Re: Wisconsin engine NH 66 baler questions in reply to brent, 06-10-2004 19:44:54  
We used to have a baler with a Wisconsin. Worked great--after we got it started the first time at the beginning of the season. Geez I hated spinning that wheel. We used to remove the belts and wrap a rope around the pulley area. We used about 3' of rope and pull started the engine like an old lawnmower. That way we were able to spin the engine over 2 or 3 times instead of one click at a time. Just be careful and make sure the rope is going to come off easily when it does start.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bill Harris

06-11-2004 19:01:08




Report to Moderator
 Re: Wisconsin engine NH 66 baler questions in reply to brent, 06-10-2004 19:44:54  
Hi, glad to see someone still has one of these. We used one when I was a kid, and I miss it somewhat. I don't remember how to prime the thing, but I do remember turning that wheel forever during the first startup of the season. Best advice I can give is to never let it stop if you do get it going. I know, not much help, but I could not resist commenting on this old relic.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
brent

06-11-2004 16:25:51




Report to Moderator
 Re: Wisconsin engine NH 66 baler questions in reply to brent, 06-10-2004 19:44:54  
We played with the engine for a while, after the rain stopped - we received an inch and a half today!

There are two timing marks on the magneto teeth. The marks are on teeth that are probably 135 degrees apart, so it would appear that perhaps the gear was used on multiple magnetos and engines.

When are the plugs supposed to fire - when the pistons are at top dead center? If I time the magneto to the mark that I think is correct, the plugs fire at approximately 30 degrees after TDC, which I assume is incorrect (the mark on the other magneto tooth results in firing at around 150 degrees after TDC). I moved it a couple of teeth to get it to fire at TDC, but the engine still didn't have any life. It's not even firing with ether. Any ideas?

The valves are unstuck now - thanks for the advice.

The plugs are Champion D-16, and appear to have good spark. I can replace them tomorrow, but I doubt it'll make much difference.

One last thing - where can we get a carburetor rebuild kit? We have no idea what shape the carb is in, but it probably needs some attention. The local Ford New Holland dealer came up empty, except for a possible lead in Minnesota.

Thanks in advance, as always...

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Steve from New Holland

06-12-2004 04:30:01




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Wisconsin engine NH 66 baler questions in reply to brent, 06-11-2004 16:25:51  
Brent, anything you need, let me know. I stock most of those engine parts. Please run D21 Champion plugs. The x on the gear that you want is the one that is on the tooth that is aligned with the slot cut in the back side of the gear. Steve



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
brent

06-12-2004 07:46:32




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: Wisconsin engine NH 66 baler questions in reply to Steve from New Holland, 06-12-2004 04:30:01  
Thanks for all the responses! They are quite helpful.

What's kind of scary is that these problems are all dealing with teh engine - we haven't even run a bale through the baler itself. We wanted to be able to run the thing off the engine so the Amish folks in our area could use it as a stationary baler. We would want to use it with the PTO, hence my questions re: being able to run it from either the engine or the PTO.

I'll change the spark plugs later today or tomorrow.

I took the carburetor off last night and cleaned it out real good. I imagine it's been rebuilt somewhat recently, as it didn't look too bad in there. The gasket even came off without any damage at all.

With the magneto timed to the mark correspoding to the keyway, the plugs fire at around 20-30 degrees after TDC. I don't know if that's where they should fire, but that's where things end up. I suppose it's possible that someone mis-timed the cam to the crankshaft, but the valves seem to be opening and closing at the proper time, at least by looking at the keyway for the belt pulley.

Is there an inspection plate that can be removed to check the cam/crank timing? If not, how difficult is it to remove the timing cover?

I'll need valve cover gaskets when I get this thing running - should I just make some out of gasket material?

Thanks much again.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Dave Sherburne, NY

06-11-2004 10:08:46




Report to Moderator
 Re: Wisconsin engine NH 66 baler questions in reply to brent, 06-10-2004 19:44:54  
I would start with new A C Spark plugs. We had one that would start with new champion plugs, but after the first shutdown, it was time for new plugs. My uncle had one , once he started it , he would leave it running all day. AC plugs were good for a season.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Steve from New Holland

06-11-2004 04:38:47




Report to Moderator
 Re: Wisconsin engine NH 66 baler questions in reply to brent, 06-10-2004 19:44:54  
Brent, there are no other timing marks to use except the x on one of the mag teeth. Remove the 3/8" pipe plug right there where the magneto mounts to the motor. Turn the enging so the crankshaft keyway slot is straight on top. You can look at the belt pulley keyway for this. Install the mag so the x on the one tooth is centered in the pipe plug you removed. Now the motor is timed. By the way, it does not matter which revalution the engine is on. I have unstuck valves whithout removing the head. Put lots of pentetrating oil in there and get an allen wrench or something that has a 90 degree bend in it. Tap it down and keep truning the engine thru the cycle untill it loosens up. Steve

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy