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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

To sway or not to sway?

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Mac

04-23-2004 13:22:48




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I have a Case 380B that accepts CAT1 & 2 implements. There are 2 top link attatch points and 4 holes each for lift stabilizers (CAT1 sway/no sway and Cat2 sway/no sway). I set up Cat2 with CAT1 bushings with no sway. I'm not sure of the sway/no sway for the disc. Reason I ask is my 6' disc spun the lock tab and nut off on left front gang in 1st 20hrs use, bending axle, and continuously wears axle on same left front gang. I've had to build (weld) up axle twice in 2 years with no problem from others. Bearings for afflicted axle spin by hand. What's up with this? Is it a common problem?

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paul

04-23-2004 14:24:57




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 Re: To sway or not to sway? in reply to Mac, 04-23-2004 13:22:48  
I would run a plow without sway bars; most other stuff like a disk with the 3pt ridgid.

With or without should not affect the disk.

A disk axle relies upon a _very_ tight nut. That hardened axle needs to be under tension. It is actually a spring, you are tightening it so much you stretch it. If you used less than a 5' cheater bar, you didn't get near tight enough. The disks need to be tightly clamped by the collars (spacers), or they will flex & move up & down & sway a few thousandths on the collars & axle. This tiny movement loosens the nut.

Since you heated the shaft, it probably is now soft steel (tho if it bent somehow, must not have been too hard to begin with?), and it will stretch & flex when you hit a rock or such. This allows the blades that tiny movement. Also when it was loose, if you used it for a while, everything on that gang wore a tiny little bit sloppy. And it doesn't take much for those blades to not lock up tight.

Did you make a few rounds, and retighten the shaft each round as the blades 'fit' in as tight as they can?

Where is the axle wearing anyhow? There should be absoulutely no movement of anything directly touching the axle in the first place. Blades & collars totally tight, and the bearings would have a bearing collar over the shaft also?

Once a side loosens up & runs that way, it is a real bear to clean all the dirt out & get it all real solid & totally tight again. Sometimes about impossible.

There is a thread not far below this one on disk axles as well....

--->Paul

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Greywolf

04-24-2004 02:57:27




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 Re: Re: To sway or not to sway? in reply to paul, 04-23-2004 14:24:57  
If you have another helper, it works to have one person with a sledge on the "head" end of the shaft rap it while the second person works the nut with the cheater bar. Its surprising how much more "tight" you can get with about 10 good raps on the shaft.

We always dropped the entire gang out of the frame, two man tightening, then slid the gang back into place.

Make sure you have ear protection, it does ring.

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Mac

04-23-2004 20:58:27




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 Re: Re: To sway or not to sway? in reply to paul, 04-23-2004 14:24:57  
Yep, after I replaced the first unrepairable axle at $42, I used 3/4 impact and then 3/4 breaker with cheater on a 7/8 nylock instead of the lock tab. Damn if it didn't come loose again, but didn't fall out. I didn't retighten after a few rounds though. I notice the axle is softer than the 7018 weld though when grinding buildup down. I figured it was made that way to protect the hardened pans and never had nerve to quench welds for hardness. I'll build axle back up and pressure wash gang then do the tighten/plow/tighten method. Thanks for input and hopefully saving me $42 (in rods or new axle).

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JMS/MN

04-23-2004 22:29:15




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 Re: Re: Re: To sway or not to sway? in reply to Mac, 04-23-2004 20:58:27  
It wouldn't hurt to doublenut the shaft.



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