Baler help

However, it's worked for me. The knotter system is a little different than what is typically found on New Holland or John Deere balers. Not everyone here is familiar with it and it made for some interesting Q&A here when I had knotter problems. But I had a good manual and was able to figure it out. Parts for MF balers are hard to find used and very expensive new. I'll continue to use it since it works and it's what I have. But knowing what I know now, if I were buying a first time baler again, I'd look for a well maintained JD or NH.

It uses square bale twine (thicker than round bailer poly) and seldom if ever misses a knot. The flywheel has a 1/4" grade 8 bolt for a shear pin and mine likes to shear them if I don't play by the rules. Gotta get the windrow, moisture, ground and PTO speeds just right. The green dealer has the bolts and lock nuts.

On smaller tractors, when I get it humpin' it rocks my blue 3000 back and forth to the point of falling asleep and out of the seat. Larger tractors are not as noticeable. The 3000 is about the hp of yours and handles the workload just fine.

The problem with twine is varmits eat it and bust your bale in the barn. It's easier to handle than wire and you can see it better and there is less chance of a safety problem than you have with pieces of bailing wire lying out in the pasture (mowing, animal hazard).

txbl

Get a good one.

Check with your tractor manufacturer - many compacts are too light or have weaker pto systems & are not reccommended or covered under warrenty for baling. That flywheel on a baler stores a good 50 hp, and a weaker power train can be damaged. But you have a pretty large compact, so should work if you don't get too much weight behind you.

-->Paul