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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Belt-driven saw problem

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Jason - Senoia,

02-06-2004 19:37:58




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I recently bought a belt-driven cut-off saw and have run into a few questions. The 30 inch blade has a very slight wobble in it. How can you true it? My Farmall Super M has the steel belt pulley. I attempted to run the saw with an old round baler belt, but when under load, it would slip on the pulley and spin off. Will a real implement belt have better traction? Where can you find a real implement belt?

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IaGuy

02-12-2004 18:48:23




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 Re: Belt-driven saw problem in reply to Jason - Senoia, GA, 02-06-2004 19:37:58  
Good coments, all. If pulleys on tractor or saw do not have the centers slightly larger diameter (check with a steel ruler or square), it will be next to impossible to keep the belt on. Crowned (high center) pulleys will almost make the belt stay on, even without much tension. Belt dressings are often considered a temporary fix and the gunk builds up on the pulleys.



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Don

02-07-2004 15:24:34




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 Re: Belt-driven saw problem in reply to Jason - Senoia, GA, 02-06-2004 19:37:58  
You might better be safe and get yourself a different blade. I have used a buzz saw for hours cutting firewood and sharpening fence posts. They are a very dangerous piece of equipment. Everything needs to be in good repair and the blade needs to be sharp. I wouldn't even consider using a blade that wobbled. Stay Safe!



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MacSC

02-07-2004 13:13:33




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 Re: Belt-driven saw problem in reply to Jason - Senoia, GA, 02-06-2004 19:37:58  
Jason, I can't lay my hands on the info for you right now but look in your Atlanta Yellow Pages for Atlanta Belting (I think that's the name) on Edgewood Ave. (Yes, just across I-75/I-85 from downtown Atlanta. They can make you any kind of belt you want. Great folks. 30-45 minutes from you.



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Bill Smith

02-07-2004 10:06:08




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 Re: Belt-driven saw problem in reply to Jason - Senoia, GA, 02-06-2004 19:37:58  
Pulley's must be in good alignment and as level as possible. A baler belt can be made to work, but I would say an implement belt as wide as the pulleys would give you less trouble. It seems like my belt for my saw is like 15 to 20 foot from pulley to pulley. I believe you will find that if you are using a belt shorter than that, you will have more problems with it slipping and throwing off. Be sure to anchor the saw down to the ground really good. If brakes on tractor are a little weak, you might want anchor tractor to something. Belt doesn't need to be really tight, just pull the slack out of it. You can never be to careful around these saws. Always stay out of the line of the blade. If it shatters, you might get a big old chunk of saw blade right in the head. I wouldn't advise using a blade that wobbles or doesn't cut right. It should buzz up wood without much struggle for the M. These things are dangerous enough with a blade that is cutting right. Just my 2 cents.

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Ron

02-07-2004 09:33:03




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 Re: Belt-driven saw problem in reply to Jason - Senoia, GA, 02-06-2004 19:37:58  
I see at the Steam Show, here in Plain City Ohio...they get the belt running, and set an inner-tube on fire....letting the melted rubber drip on the belt... Really does stop slippage...!! Check at some small sawmills.. many are still using round blades... At Plain City, they still use them, and I am sure they would know where to get that blade straightened... Association address is: PO Box 364 Plain City, Ohio 43064 President Gary Gallimore (740)857-1824

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Roger

02-07-2004 08:06:03




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 Re: Belt-driven saw problem in reply to Jason - Senoia, GA, 02-06-2004 19:37:58  
Jason, after replying to Ferns message below, I started remembering other things you need to check (wait until you are my age, you can't remember anything). Apparently this is your first "Buzz Saw". You need to check the "set" of the teeth. Half lean to the right, the other half lean to the left, alternating all the way around the blade. If you are cutting soft wood, the width of the cut may not allow the sawdust to be pulled from the cut. This will cause the saw blade to drag. As Paul pointed out this will cause the belt to whip. There is a way to sharpen the saw teeth. I am not sure how to explain it in words. Guess this is why a picture is worth a thousand words. Look at the saw teeth from the side. Most people sharpen the teeth from the front. The teeth will start to lean backwards or look straight. The tip cannot hook into the wood to cut it. This causes excess friction and will throw the belt. The teeth should lean forwards. Remaking the teeth (cutting them back into the blade) is called "gumming". The teeth should always be sharpened from the back side. This will keep them leaning forwards and do a better job of cutting. I know this sounds wrong, but it is the best way to keep a blade in good condition. Since your blade wobbles, it may be best to look for a different blade. You can pick them up at farm sales, or if you are Donald Trump, you can afford a new one. I am not sure I can get a good picture of my buzz saw blade, but if you would like a picture let me know. It might help you to understand this a little better. You are getting some good advice from these guys. Hang in there you can make it work.

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Dave H (MI)

02-08-2004 13:19:03




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 Re: Re: Belt-driven saw problem in reply to Roger, 02-07-2004 08:06:03  
It's not your age Roger, it's the size of the memory you have to access.



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marlowe

02-07-2004 07:28:38




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 Re: Belt-driven saw problem in reply to Jason - Senoia, GA, 02-06-2004 19:37:58  
fist the pullies have to be in perfect alignment and round bailer balt will work just fine



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Paul Janke

02-07-2004 06:48:56




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 Re: Belt-driven saw problem in reply to Jason - Senoia, GA, 02-06-2004 19:37:58  
I have had very good luck with a belt designed for a round baler. Spray on belt dressing will work fine, but expect to use half of the can the first time you dress the belt, especially if it is an old one. It can be VERY frustrating to get going if the belt is wet, frosty, icy, or snowy. If you are using an old belt, it is not uncommon to need to keep tightening the belt for hours, because they stretch while being used. A come along between the tractor and an anchor is a good way to keep the belt tight, because you can then tighten things without having to stop, release brakes, tighten, set brakes, and hopefully have things right. A whipping belt is usually because it is too tight. The belt is good as a shear pin as well, because if you jam the saw, the belt will slip and fall off. Practice makes perfect. I have used the belt driven saw for somewhere between 500 and 1000 cords of wood.

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Dennis

02-07-2004 06:15:42




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 Re: Belt-driven saw problem in reply to Jason - Senoia, GA, 02-06-2004 19:37:58  
I have not seen a bailer belt for the actual makeup and the differences from a belt to run a saw, hammer mill, grinder, ect. One very cheap belt dressing is in your kitchen. If you have an old jar of grape or strawberry jam, a little portion of that on the belt will work wonders for the slipage. Also as stated earlier, check the alingment. Good Luck.



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Roger

02-06-2004 21:38:32




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 Re: Belt-driven saw problem in reply to Jason - Senoia, GA, 02-06-2004 19:37:58  
You will need to use some kind of belt dressing. If the flat pulleys and belt are dry, the belt will slide off very easy. If the saw table is not in line, it will throw the belt off. You may need to re-align. Saw blade wobbling, more than likly some one has gotten it hot. The blade expands and when it contracts it looses its cup. A saw blade has a slight cup to it either left or right. A perfectly straight blade will wobble. A slight cup is put in the blade so it will run true. You may need to get a different blade or have some one work on the one you have. The procces is called "Hammering" a blade.

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Fern(Mi0

02-07-2004 03:52:00




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 Re: Re: Belt-driven saw problem in reply to Roger, 02-06-2004 21:38:32  
Hammering a blade may be coming a lost art. I don't know of anyone around here any more. Then what with bandsaw mills the circular mills are losing favor and the craftsmaen who went with them.



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Roger

02-07-2004 07:12:15




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 Re: Re: Re: Belt-driven saw problem in reply to Fern(Mi0, 02-07-2004 03:52:00  
Unfortunately you are correct. However, I always get lots of advice when running the sawmill at the local show. Most people think you toss a log on the carriage and start making sawdust. The most common advice is - run the saw blade faster, it will keep the belt from coming off. Or - bolt a motor up direct to the drive shaft, that way you won't have any belt or slippage problems.



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old

02-06-2004 19:40:59




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 Re: Belt-driven saw problem in reply to Jason - Senoia, GA, 02-06-2004 19:37:58  
A farm supply place should have belts, and yes they work better they are wider and there is just something about them that work better



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