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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Is it worth converting to stub guards?

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Josh

01-25-2004 18:45:26




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I have been looking for a haybine and recently found a decent 469 NH. The guards and knife need replaced and i was wondering if stub guards are better than the standard 2 prong guard? What is the price diference? I am planning on using top-serrated bolted sections on the knife. Is there any thing else to improve cutting? Anything to look out for on a 469? It looks very similar to my old 488. Thanks for the advice!
Josh

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wolfy

01-26-2004 12:47:33




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 Re: Is it worth converting to stub guards? in reply to Josh, 01-25-2004 18:45:26  
I'm not saying stub guards aren't worth it, but regular guards & knife work quite well in varying conditions when everything is set right-INCLUDING the reel.



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Rob

01-26-2004 06:20:39




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 Re: Is it worth converting to stub guards? in reply to Josh, 01-25-2004 18:45:26  
Here's the way I see it, doesn't mean it's right: Stub guards-heavy, damp grass or legumes or lots of dead material underneath. Regular guards-alfalfa after 1st cutting, second cutting grasses, anything with real dry conditions.



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Joel Harman

01-26-2004 06:45:51




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 Re: Re: Is it worth converting to stub guards? in reply to Rob, 01-26-2004 06:20:39  
Stub guards will also help get more lodged crops cut.

I prefer underserrated sections. I run mine against replacable ledger plates.



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Flurette Farm

01-25-2004 20:01:19




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 Re: Is it worth converting to stub guards? in reply to Josh, 01-25-2004 18:45:26  
Josh, I have machines with each kind and I think that the stub guards work better for me. If you check the purpose for using stub guards you can determine if they are right for you. It all comes down to the conditions and type of material your cutting. You must make sure under any circumstances you have the cutter bar adjusted correctly and you have shimed the hold down clips correctly. Use your manual. If you don't have one get one..... .Good luck

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kyhayman

01-25-2004 19:34:18




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 Re: Is it worth converting to stub guards? in reply to Josh, 01-25-2004 18:45:26  
I know nothing about stub guards, never used them BUT I know about top serrated sections on a NH Haybine. Probably not my biggest mistake to change over but definitely in the top 10 was to change my 474 over. Absolutely will not cut right. My NH book says underserrated and I believe it. Shame most lessons have to cost money (but then there is that story about blasting caps and a cell phone but I dont talk about that :-))

Regards,
David

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Josh

01-26-2004 05:05:50




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 Re: Re: Is it worth converting to stub guards? in reply to kyhayman, 01-25-2004 19:34:18  
What kind of hay do you cut? I cut mostly grass, lots of fine stuff that is kind of tough to cut, but also some timothy and alfalfa. My old haybine always had topserated and they worked pretty good. I never tried anything else. Do you think that for mostly cutting grass the underserrated sections would do better? Thanks for the advice.



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kyhayman

01-26-2004 05:21:12




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 Re: Re: Re: Is it worth converting to stub guards? in reply to Josh, 01-26-2004 05:05:50  
On really coarse grass the top serrated might be ok. They do an acceptable job on soybeans and timothy (first cutting). When cutting alfalafa and grasses with a lot of blade grass I've had to drop cutting speed 2 full gears or else it looks like I tried to mow it with a weed eater.

Reading the owners manual for mine it stresses that for almost all cases the design of the mower with double heat treated guards to use an underserrated only (years ago I ordered a sickle and got smooth, that was worse, never did find anything I could cut with it).

Once again, other brands of mowers even recomend top serrated. It's a combination of mower design an d use that determines what section to select.

I used to cut everything with mine. My dad and I bought it together in 1984 (new) as a trade in on our other one. We did a lot of custom work back then (10-12,000 acres a year. kept a man full time to just run the mower). Literally, we would cut in the rain on the last day of a weather pattern to keep up. Never had a problem cutting anything with the underserrated except something that was tall, down, and twisted. That's when I saw my first disc mower. Decided right then that was how we needed to go. Took until 1987 before we had enough extra cash built up to buy one. I just keep it around as a back up/ double up (if I need to run an extra mower)/ and to windrow round bale sileage. I only use it on a 100 acres a year at the most any more, I cant see changing the sickle back.

Regards,
David

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