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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

tiller advice neded

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justJeff

01-21-2004 19:07:09

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we've started paying someone to till lots that we're getting ready to develop. Breaking up the topsoil/sod layer saves us a few hours of excavator time for either burying the material or trucking it off.

We've been paying a fellow with a small JD (20hp or so) to till it. We have a MF35 and would like to get a tiller and do it ourselves. What brands would anyone reccomend? For new I've looked at the Landpride 20 series 58" wide, it's about $2,000. Somone told me an older Howard would be better, but I can't find used tillers of any make, and I've called a LOT of implement and tractor places.

Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

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Hay Dr

01-23-2004 19:59:23

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Re: tiller advice neded in reply to justJeff, 01-21-2004 19:07:09

You might want to look at the CCM Gear Drive Tillers. A MR-190- 700 LBS, tills 72" and is $1250

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Tom in Texas

01-23-2004 12:34:07

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Re: tiller advice neded in reply to justJeff, 01-21-2004 19:07:09

Let me know if you get one I'd like a field report. King Kutter has a web site with all the info and the price was quoted by the Wichita Falls Texas Tractor supply for a four footer I think it was.

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Tom in Texas

01-23-2004 11:23:18

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Re: tiller advice neded in reply to justJeff, 01-21-2004 19:07:09

I was looking at Tractor Supply at a King Kutter brand roto tiller, 5 foot three point mount for about $1,000.00. It seemed sturdy enough for daily use and had a gear driven system not chain dirven.

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justJeff

01-23-2004 11:30:43

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Re: Re: tiller advice neded in reply to Tom in Texas, 01-23-2004 11:23:18

Wow Tom that seems pretty inexpensive. I'll have to see if there is a dealr in our area. Thanks everyone.

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SCJim

01-22-2004 09:19:04

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Re: tiller advice neded in reply to justJeff, 01-21-2004 19:07:09

Hey Jeff!
Just wanted to throw in my 2 cents...You mentioned looking for a used tiller. Be very careful. You can spend a heap on gearboxes/bearings/etc. and still have a worn out tiller! I do think your 35 would be ok in your soil type with a 5'. Have a great day!

Jim

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mark

01-22-2004 08:36:51

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Re: tiller advice neded in reply to justJeff, 01-21-2004 19:07:09

I was to buy one once and a maintenance man at the dealer, not salesman, got me off in the corner and said "don't buy these, they don't have gauge wheels". Makes a good point. Seems like that way you can let it float and it is more independent of the tractor's attitude and will probably do a more even job.

Mark

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Jerry D in NC

01-22-2004 02:39:42

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Re: tiller advice neded in reply to justJeff, 01-21-2004 19:07:09

I have a John Deere 660 that was made by Howard that was used by a landscaper until he busted it up beyond repair. LOL I got it and had to weld the tine shaft back together. I use it on a Ford 2000 that is around the 34 hp range. I heavy clay it really pulls it down but it will bury itself in sandy loam. I have also used the Land Pride tiller and it works great also. Both are heavy built the Howard might be a bit heavier but with properly adjusted slip clutches and an operator that cares either should work fine for you. My question is the MF35. Does it have a gear slow enough? It has been my experience that one pass tilling on sod requires slow travel to chew it up good enough.

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justJeff

01-22-2004 05:46:08

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Re: Re: tiller advice neded in reply to Jerry D in NC, 01-22-2004 02:39:42

Thanks for the thoughts gentlemen. I believe the MF35 is geared low enough, it has the two range trans and in low/low she is a real slow creeper. According to the manual, in low/low at the 1,700rpm needed for 540pto the tractor is plugging along at about 1mph. Is that plenty slow enough?

For our sandy conditions would you go with the 15 or 20 series Landpride?

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Fighting suburbia in NC

01-21-2004 20:03:46

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Re: tiller advice neded in reply to justJeff, 01-21-2004 19:07:09

For heavy soils and deep tilling you will need around 10 hp per foot of tiller. 5' would be OK with a 50 hp tractor. Beware light duty equipment - the gear boxes and drive components may not withstand the shock loads encountered when tilling fresh ground with the typical construction debris that are left lying around and then buried (I know from experience what gets covered up before the landscaping gets started).

The Howards have a sterling reputation because they are built to handle the rough stuff. They ain't cheap to buy or to fix but they don't break unless you really try hard to destroy them - and then they are rebuildable back to bulletproof.

Depending on the Howard model you can get all kinds of adjustable flaps, adjustable gauge wheels, and even adjustable tine speed on Select-A-Tilth models (but you pay for that convenience).

For light duty shallow ground prep a less robust unit will probably do - just don't be surprised if you tear it up quicker than you think you should.

Robert in W. Mi knows more about Howards than just about anybody that posts here. Maybe he will chime in.

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justJeff

01-21-2004 20:29:38

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Re: Re: tiller advice neded in reply to Fighting suburbia in NC, 01-21-2004 20:03:46

Thanks for the info. We're at the beach and the soil is all sand, no rocks, just some roots and very small brush. There isn't any construction debris on the lots as the tilling is the first thing we're doing to the lots. Do you think a 5' tiller would work on a 35hp tractor in those conditions? The guy that we're paying to do it now is using about a 50" tiller on his 20hp JD and it seems to be working well.

What do you think of the Landpride units?

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RWK in WI

01-22-2004 06:03:50

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Re: Re: Re: tiller advice neded in reply to justJeff, 01-21-2004 20:29:38

You can try this:
Link
I have bought from them and they will give you straight ininformation. Also are willing to deal.

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Indydirtfarmer

01-22-2004 03:40:41

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Re: Re: Re: tiller advice neded in reply to justJeff, 01-21-2004 20:29:38

Check all the impliment dealers in your area. Many around here rent "tillers". You could "try one on for size", without buying it. I have an 80" Howard Rotovator. It gets used behind a 60 hp John Deere 2440. I have always had plenty of power. The biggest challenge with a tiller, is having low enough gearing. Not all tractors will crawl along slow enough. I do "custom tilling" for several golf course contractors. Some of the work I do for them involves tilling old "fairways" that are hard as concrete, from years of mowing, rolling, and driving golf carts over it. If the ground is too hard, I'll make 2 pass's, with the first at 4-1/2" to 5". The second can be much deeper. Before anyone suggest's chizeling the compacted fairways, there is usually irrigation piping under them. They are usually buried deeper than 2', but just in case, most golf course superintendants want me to till no deper than 8". My suggestion is to get a tiller, and go for it. They are great for what you're wanting to do.John

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