JD 336 Baler Long Haul

--->Paul

My Dad was along for the ride on the second baler, the parts one, and it looked really rough! He got out of the truck and took one look at the baler and said, "It will be a miracle if we get this thing home!" As we pulled into into the driveway, the right side tire started going flat!

Sunday morning was definately the least busy as far as traffic. I also thought, in retrospect, that if one could have a car in front - ahead a bit with flashing lights, it might be of help with oncoming traffic. Around here, the back roads are made up of narrow roads, hills and very sharp turns.

Good luck,
Bill

I have done 3 baler road trips. 2 NH68's took them 90 mi each and a 268 took a whoping 190 trip.

#1 Take spare tires
#2 Take more spare tires ( prefer old car tires)
#3 Take Jack
#4 Tale lots of tools
#5 take come along ( never know)
#6 Take a small supply of bolts
#7 Take SMV sign they arnt giving you thiers.
#8 Take grease
#9 Take some chain. I had to chain one into road possition once as the hitch was welded and wouldnt lock.
#10 get county maps of the counties you will be driving through. Stay off the main high ways unles you have no choice.
#11 Take some wire.
#12 throw any thing else that looks like it may be useful into the truck also.

If you go on Sunday traffic on back roads will be far between cars. 50 mph is ok if you plan 1000 feet ahead. Slow down to 30 mph at cross roads.
25 to 30 mph if you can see any cars any where or people/ kids, horses. Never get closer than 10 car lenths of vehicle in front. ( not likely any way they seem to zoom on by)
Plan to get to pick up early like 7 am. Takes all day to get home.
Here a photo of the 268 I drug home 190 mi.

You should not go over 30 mph. You might end up going 45, but I would not go faster than that. You want the wheel bearings greased, check them for heat after 5-10 miles. You would want a jack, wrench, and spare wheel/tire along, check the dishing on a standard 6 bolt implement rim should probably be right. They have no suspension, so the faster you go the more punishment the rubber takes, and often aren't in new condition to begin with.....

The hitch should swing over to transport position, and the tighter the hitch is (back & forth) in all the linkages & even the pin size onto your hitch, the less 'wobbles' you will have & smoother it will tow - better you can make that, the easier it will tow. Longer wheelbased implements work better also, but not much you can do about that.

For a trailer, you generally need to ramp or lift it on sideways, and remove the hitch. In farm states like yours & mine most any farm implement can be towed if you stay slow & proceed with reason, but once on a trailer you have to follow DOT a lot more, proper tie-downs, no wider than 10 or even 8 feet, etc....

With good rubber & good wheel bearings on rural roads, towing will be the simplest. Oh, with a 1/2 ton or bigger pickup.

--->Paul