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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

howard rotovator questions

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mudstuck

12-22-2003 06:00:05




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what price for a nice 8 foot model? what kind of horsepower is needed to operate one this size? lord knows it needs to fit my 90 hp tractor or can't buy it!! i got a chance to buy from the original owner. it has been used just a little bit. good tines and strong drive train. could use some help with this subject. never used one before but have watched our state hiway dept use them on seedbeds for years. they seem to do a terrific job. i was thinking of reworking all our hay land with it. your opinions will be helpful.
thanks y'all.

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Runner,Al.

12-28-2003 16:32:30




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 Re: howard rotovator questions in reply to mudstuck, 12-22-2003 06:00:05  
Used to have a Howard-Rotovator 10ft. Pulled it behind a 5020 Deere. It was a load. But did a great job. Wish I still had it. Heavy build good machine.



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John

12-26-2003 09:51:43




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 Re: howard rotovator questions in reply to mudstuck, 12-22-2003 06:00:05  
I'm always amazed with the some of the answers and comments i see here concerning rotavator questions.

I've owned and used a Howard for a lot of years now, and to me to it seems to be one of the best tillage tools on the market. It's as close to a one pass tillage tool as it gets.

Those of you that have had pto problems useing a rotavator just need to move up to a tractor that has a decent pto in the first place. OR, do you have the drive line clutch set too tight???

Those that say they are too slow, just don't know how to set them, or have them on too small of a tractor.

I do think a lot of the problems are people buying cheap tillers and "think" they have a rotavator! Those cheap tillers are for gardens, NOT for field use!

John

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Indydirtfarmer

12-23-2003 05:26:38




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 Re: howard rotovator questions in reply to mudstuck, 12-22-2003 06:00:05  
I'm not going to get into an arguement with anyone, but here's the point I'm trying to make. My father bought our FIRST Rotovator in 1970. We used it (96") behind a John Deere 4020 for years. I still own the tractor. It hasn't suffered ANY PTO failures. We usually did around 30 acres a year, of greenbean, and cabbage ground. We fall plowed the ground, and then tilled it in the spring, at an average depth of 9". A few years ago, my father passed away. We sold SOME of his equipment, and replaced it with newer stuff, or things that fit our needs better. One of the things I replaced was the Howard Rotovator. I sold his old one, and bought one that is only 80". It's easier for me to transport on a trailer. I do quite a bit of "tilling" for a couple golf course contractors. I needed one to run behind a 2440 Deere. It's 60 HP. The 80" Rotovator is slightly bigger than Howard recomends, but it works fine. The work I do on the golf courses, requires me to operate it at a depth of about 7". It's never been a problem. I still do the vegitable plots. We grow greenbeans, cabbage, garlic, and tomato's.I still fall plow, then till in the spring. That isn't done for any reason pertaining to the tiller. It's just about covering all the "residue" from the previous years crops. With around 300 hours of use behind the 60 HP tractor, I haven't had any "premature PTO failures" or any other problems. The "secret" to running a Rotovator isn't so much horsepower, but soil moisture and groundspeed. Plus stay away from rocky soil. Maybe some others have had bad luck, or they've heard "rumors" about Rotovators, but those of us that USE them, swear by them. They aren't the hot setup for huge fields. There are faster tillage methods for that situation. They are however, the best "single pass" tillage method going. This statement is from experience, and not from rumors, and guesses. JOHN

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AirtimeWC

12-22-2003 13:09:08




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 Re: howard rotovator questions in reply to mudstuck, 12-22-2003 06:00:05  
When new, Howard recommended 1 HP to the inch in width. As stated, you must go slow and give the rotovator time to till the soil. Because of the slow operating speed, they are not as fast as plowing and discing with multiple passes. Most importantly, a rotavator is a tractor killer!! They will destroy the PTO driveline in ANY tractor especially if used in rocky ground. 3 PTO's later, got rid of mine. Traded even for a set of 3 bottom Oliver plows-I got the good end of the trade.

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JMS/MN

12-22-2003 11:46:48




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 Re: howard rotovator questions in reply to mudstuck, 12-22-2003 06:00:05  
Eight foot behind 90 hp? Might work if you just want to go a few inches deep. About 1970 I saw a farm magazine article about a Howard behind a JD 4020-primary tillage, pulling a two row planter behind. Guy was going to his banker to get a second unit for spring planting. Obviously did not catch on. For shallow tillage, maybe ok, but after plowing? Just a field cultivator, or disc, prepares a decent seedbed. Why buy a second primary tillage tool? They are a great primary/secondary(finish) tool for gardens, small plots, etc., but what do farmers use?

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Indydirtfarmer

12-22-2003 07:34:22




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 Re: howard rotovator questions in reply to mudstuck, 12-22-2003 06:00:05  
You should be just fine with your 90 HP tractor. I use an 80" version, behind a 60 HP tractor. It works quite well. You have the "advantage" of gear selection on the Howard Roto-Vator. You can tailor the gearing to groundspeed, and power requirements. There will always be some "new and improved" method of working soil. Sometimes the "old reliable" methods are still hard to beat. The Rotovator has been around for a long long time. They wouldn't still be here if they weren't good. I use the Rotovator AFTER plowing, in place of discing. That saves some wear and tear on the Rotovator. I get a very good seedbed that way. JMHO. JOHN

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Dan

12-22-2003 06:59:11




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 Re: howard rotovator questions in reply to mudstuck, 12-22-2003 06:00:05  
I used to operate a small, 4 foot rotiller behind a 35 hp massy 135. It worked grat for gardens and lawn prep and all. I think they work really good to break up sod chunks, not on the first pass but after discing. They take a lot of ppwer to operate and are slow. If you have many rocks, forget it.



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smirkey

12-22-2003 06:17:34




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 Re: howard rotovator questions in reply to mudstuck, 12-22-2003 06:00:05  
i've always wanted one too. but after working with soils for many years, i believe they may not work as well as in the pictures. here they also can add to plow pans and compaction. the organic farmers are moving towards a spade plow instead of rototiller.



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JMS/MN

12-22-2003 11:38:06




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 Re: Re: howard rotovator questions in reply to smirkey, 12-22-2003 06:17:34  
Compaction is caused by using the SAME tillage tool for many years- doesn't matter if it is a plow, disc, tiller, whatever. Occasionally you have to use something that goes deeper or rips the soil more. If you run the same point at the same level for many years, the bottom of that point is compacting the soil at that level. Everything above that point is stirred up!



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gardener

01-12-2004 18:41:58




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 Re: Re: Re: howard rotovator questions in reply to JMS/MN, 12-22-2003 11:38:06  
Howdy JMS:
I respect your opinion, but question how you prove
that or if there is documented data on the postulation that there is compaction if the same machine point is at the same depth many years.I agree that this is so for the implements you mentioned,.....But,....
I suggest that a spader's action/points are different from all the rest in that they fracture the soil below their "slice-shunt" action to leave airways, and dont smear the way that bottom-slicing-action blades do, but rather break roughly along the bottom. Neither do they "stir up" the soil as a beating tiller or churning discs do, and yet are able to achieve a finish bed in the top plane if desired( by hurling the smaller clods up against the shield)
...generally in one pass....which reduces ambient weight compaction even more. If there is compaction with spading, then it is surely many degrees less than other methods.
Also, if one is careful never to till when soil is too moist, then even the tractor/machine's weight will not contribute greatly to that kind of compaction.
The effect of the spader is also to promote the best kind of advantage for the microlife/tilth promotion as far as machinery goes.
No, i'm not connected to any spader company. I have simply found over the years a significant difference using one after the conventional methods....and would like to spread the practise for the sake of our diminishing soil quality....for those looking for the optimum machinewise.

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