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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Hay Rack Questions

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Matthew (Mich)

12-19-2003 12:55:59




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Been through the archive's section about making a hay rack deck. I'm pretty clear on most but no one mention if you space the top layer of boards. Or are they mated together? If spaced what's the normal spacing between boards? Is a 4 ton running gear O.K to use with 16 or 18'rack? Is there a rule of thumb on running gear tonage to size of hay rack? What size should the sill's be width and height?

Matthew

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Cliff Neubauer

12-21-2003 08:57:56




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 Re: Hay Rack Questions in reply to Matthew (Mich), 12-19-2003 12:55:59  
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Here is a picture of the last hayrack we built which we patterned after one we built a few years ago that worked really well. The rack is 8.5' wide by 16' long which works good for our bale size and getting 150 bales on it is no problem, 180 even isn't too bad. The bigger the running gear the better, same with tires, we have smaller racks on smaller gears with used car or light truck tires but these heavy gears with implement tires ride much better which makes it easier to stack a tight load. For the rack we had a local sawmill cut us a pair of 6x8" runners that we topped with 2x6" lumber also from the sawmill that we cut out of our pasture and we treated it all with linseed oil. We used 5/16x3" lag screws to attach the cross pieces to the runners, nails will work loose over time due to the vibration but the screws will hold tight.

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Loren - Flemming

12-22-2003 19:24:14




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 Re: Re: Hay Rack Questions in reply to Cliff Neubauer, 12-21-2003 08:57:56  
Very good bale rake. However, we have cut gone with smaller stringing, and laid 4 x4 across and ran the 2 X ? lenthwise, bit I wish I had that rack on my JD running grear. Try loading the bales this way: We load our wagons with one row of bales lengthwise through the middle and the rest crosswise on the outside. On an 8 x 16 bed, gives you 20 bales per layer. Helps keep the outsides from tipping out when you get up 5 or 6 layers.

Loren

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Dale

12-19-2003 15:57:34




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 Re: Hay Rack Questions in reply to Matthew (Mich), 12-19-2003 12:55:59  
We use 8-10 ton wagons, cut old school bus frames to whatever length we need to make the bottom frame, then bold 3x5 hardwood crosswise every 2 feet and run 1" rough cut hemlock down the length of the wagon at about a half inch spacing.



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Matthew (Mich)

12-19-2003 15:56:21




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 Re: Hay Rack Questions in reply to Matthew (Mich), 12-19-2003 12:55:59  

I've got a bunch of rough cut oak boards 1.5"x8"x10' not sure if it's red or white oak. Would cut them to length at 8'.Could I just use them for the floor with out putting the stringer boards every 24", and just nail them to the sill's? Basically the boards would hang over 2' on each side of the sill or are they not strong enough to be self supported?

Matthew



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kyhayman

12-19-2003 16:46:00




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 Re: Re: Hay Rack Questions in reply to Matthew (Mich), 12-19-2003 15:56:21  
Matthew,

Email me (not sure about here but on my reply below my address is 'unhidden'). I'll send you a set of plans as a Word file.

Generally speaking you would need to do something to protect red oak if it is going to stay outside for any length of time. White oak will last a lot longer. The lumber you are describing is almost exactly what I use, except for the length. Terminology varies a lot in different parts of the country.

Here's mine in a nutshell. (20' wagon). 3"x8"x20' runners, 6/4" (1-1/2")x variable width) x8'. Nailed directly to runners with fence plank nails (oil quinched twist nails). Your 6/4"x8"x10' cut to 8' would work. Then 2"x6"x20' for side boards. Bolted to flooring with 3/8" carriage bolts. My runners nearly always come almost 21' so I still have room to put the tailgate on and trim to square. I only use mill run, rough sawed, white oak.

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kyhayman

12-19-2003 14:35:26




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 Re: Hay Rack Questions in reply to Matthew (Mich), 12-19-2003 12:55:59  
Matthew,

I make several wagon flats (that's what we call a hay rack) to sell every year. Generally, I use a 3/4' dia bolt to space the flooring (one on each side of the runner). My flooring comes in green sawed (6/4" x variable x 8', white oak @ $.50/bdft + delivery) so it will shrink, nets a 1" gap. Two guys nailing and 1 packing boards to them. Most of my competition uses nail guns but I like fence plank nails better, floor stays tight. Sell mine for $100 more than the other guys but use heavier hardware. Sold 42 last year, used to do over a hundred a year but the drop in tobacco quota has put a lot of good used wagons on the market, cheap.

Regards,
David

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Henrichs

12-19-2003 13:44:51




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 Re: Hay Rack Questions in reply to Matthew (Mich), 12-19-2003 12:55:59  
On the bed of the flat rack, you want to leave at least a 3/4" to 1" space between the boards, using 1" foot boards. Make a minimum of a 16 ft. rack but an 18 ft would be a lot better to give you a little extra room, otherwise four rows is all your going to get on a 16 ft. rack. What do you think the bales will weigh? A small bale will be a minimum of 50 lbs. while I've baled some that weigh 80 lbs. How high do you want to stack the bales, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8? I generally do 6 high, I've seem good rack riders go to 9 but you better have level ground, no pocket-gopher holes and an experienced operator on the tractor. Running gear size is going to be determined by a number of factors. If you want to put a minimum of 100 bales on the rack that weigh 50 lbs. each, that's 5,000 lbs. plus the running gear (800 lbs. approximately) and the rack (another 500 lbs. minimum) so now we are up to about 6,500 lbs. and a 4-ton gear will work. But, 100, 80 lb. bales will give you 8,000 lbs. with the running gear and rack your going to be pushing 10,000 lbs. Don't waste your money on a 4-ton running gear, the wheel spindles and bearings are to small, and the tounge will not be heavy enough for turning. A cheap 8-ton running gear will cost you a little less than $1,500 and a good wooden rack if you build it will be about a grand. Use 4x8 stringers.

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Don-Wi

12-19-2003 22:25:34




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 Re: Re: Hay Rack Questions in reply to Henrichs, 12-19-2003 13:44:51  
My brother is one such guy who can do the 9-high no problem. Some of the wagons really squat down alot with those loads, and every now and then we blow an old tire, which is always fun to change with a full load as I damn near got caught under one when the jack tipped out, but I was quick when I saw the slightest movement. It never even lost a bale. Picked it back up and put the tire on, cleaned out my pants later.

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Michael Soldan

12-19-2003 13:31:53




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 Re: Hay Rack Questions in reply to Matthew (Mich), 12-19-2003 12:55:59  
Matthew, I'm no expert but Have built a couple of hay racks in the last two years. Your 4 ton wagon will be fine for the rack you want to build. 120 bales of hay @ 50 lbs is 6000 lbs so a 4 ton wagon is sufficient. I started both my racks by taking care of the wagon gear first. I did all the wheel bearings, packing them with grease and loading them. Then I got some good heavy tires(used but not abused) that came off of a light truck. My sills were expensive but I feel worth the money. I had a local sawmill cut me 3"x10" x 16' hardwood sills $80. I then purchased 2"x6"x8' spruce and spiked them to the sills(centered and squared to the sills). At the sides and ends I bolted 1"x4" pine top and bottom to tie the rack together,sandwiching the 2"x6" spruce. I place the planks as tight together as I can, eventually you end up with a space of 1/4" to a 1/2" as the lumber dries out. Then I buy a gallon of Thompson's Water Seal, put it in my weed sprayer and spray the newly created rack liberally. I also store wooden racks inside and they will last for a long time. I still use a rack my Dad made in the early 50's and its as strong as the day it was built. Some folk think that smooth lumber makes too slippery a deck but I've never had the problem even when doing straw, not that you couldn't slip on it,if you are worried about it spread a handfull of sand lightly over the wood and then spray water seal on it , it will stay on for a long time. Don't build the rack too light, I did one using 5/4" decking lumber, pressure treated, its a nice rack and carries 120 bales but the 2"x6" deck is much stronger. If you put good sills under the rack you can carry a lot of weight...good luck from Mike in Exeter Ontario

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