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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Sickle Bar Questions

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Bill

10-07-2003 14:23:13




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Aside from saving time with a 9' sickle bar mower, what drives the length of a sickle bar mower? Is it the rake width? I have seen and read of 6', 7' and 9' mowers?

Also, some of these are pitman driven and others are belt driven. Some are 3 pt mounted, some are pull behind. I suppose that some sickle bar mowers are designed to mount on older tractors that did not have 3 point hitches.

I assume a 9' sickle mows faster than a 6', but is there an advantage to the shorter bar?

How difficult are some of things to mount to a 3 pt hitch? I read that, for example, that the NH 451 has it's own stand that eases mounting. Is a Ford any easier to mount than a JD, etc?

What is the deal with Massey Ferguson's "Dana Balance" sickle bar mowers? Are they different than Ford or New Holland? Are they reliable and are parts still available?

Thanks in advance,
Bill

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T.J.-N.J.

10-09-2003 17:04:31




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 Re: Sickle Bar Questions in reply to Bill, 10-07-2003 14:23:13  
I use an old #32 McCormick tow behind that I really like, it has a pitman, I broke the first one because it was all dry rotted . I got a new one at Quality farm and family before they closed and still have it on 4 years later. I replaced all the guards and hold downs and rebuilt the knives with new sections and converted them to bolt ons at the same time. This winter it is going to come back into the shop for a new home built rear pto drive to power my Cunningham crimper since the factory drive point is to low. It is 6 1/2 foot wide so it should work fine with my six foot crimper. Keep it sharp, lube it when you put it away, get a copy of the owners manual it really cuts down the learning curve on all the adjustments, and keep it out of the weather if possible. Around here there arent to many belt drive mowers as most people replaced there pitman sickles with first generation hay bines. Good luck and buy what works for you and your wallet. Hope this helped T.J.

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John in IN

10-08-2003 17:38:38




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 Re: Sickle Bar Questions in reply to Bill, 10-07-2003 14:23:13  
I bought a 7ft. cut New Holland 455 pull type mower last summer. It is belt driven. It also has the p.t.o. at the rear to hook up a crimper. Haven't had any luck finding a 404 crimper to go with it. I like the pull type because quicker hook up, can use it behind my old tractors without a three point and can pull it behind the pickup truck. Pitman arm mowers you want to watch your fingers I'm told while raising and lowering the bar. Have been real happy with the dealer and the parts availibility. Most parts on the shelf. Good luck.

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Bob Semrau

10-08-2003 10:05:14




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 Re: Sickle Bar Questions in reply to Bill, 10-07-2003 14:23:13  
I have a Massey 32, a 7 foot pitman mower, and it is much easier to hook up than the Ford 501 that my neighbor has - just one datapoint. I have never broken a pitman with it, and it has cut a lot of hay for me ... I haven't had any trouble getting parts for it, but I also haven't needed any in a couple of years (other than sickles and guards, which are available at TSC).



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Jerry D in NC

10-08-2003 03:26:15




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 Re: Sickle Bar Questions in reply to Bill, 10-07-2003 14:23:13  
First of all let me thank you for doing a bunch of homework in the archives. Now to the questions. The bar length discussion is a balance between volume and manuverability. A 9 ft bar would cut alot of hay in a day in wide open fields but would not be as easy to trim around small fields with. Unless you are looking for doing large amounts of hay or where you are mowing is fairly open then I have found a 7 ft to be a good balance.

As for the pittman vs belt drive, you are usually talking dollar differences. Biggest advantage of the belt drive is that it can mow with the cutterbar at much greater angles than a pittman. The pittman wants the bar fairly level or it will break the pittman. The pittman serves 2 purposes, it converts rotary to linear motion and acts as a "fuse" to prevent the damage that can happen if the bar gets bound up some way. The belt drive has various other ways of protecting the drive line. and the "wobble box" converts the rotary to linear motion. The NH is King of this market but have your pocketbook full when you go look at a belt drive NH. MF Dyna is, from many comments on this board, getting hard to get or afford parts for. The Ford 515 seems to be a less expensive but still well supported mower, possibly making it a good balance. The JD belt drives I am not familar with at all. As for pittman styles, you have many to chose from but my preference is the Ford 501 or a JD 9 (other JD 3 pt hitch are fine) as these are still very plentiful and mow great if set up properly.

You do not want an older machine that was made specifically for say a Farmall M and bolts to the frame, if you have an old Ford with 3pt hitch. The fabrication to rework the hitch will be tremendous. 3 pt Mowers are easier to get into tight places and mow with than say the trailer type machines

Start looking around and see what is available and what the prices look like. And determine what you want it to do.

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Jim

10-07-2003 22:49:24




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 Re: Sickle Bar Questions in reply to Bill, 10-07-2003 14:23:13  
With any mower, the way to save time is to have the machine mounted correctly and most importantly, adjusted properly. Any mower that is adjusted, lubricated, and operated in the way it was designed will do you a good job. The important thing is to keep downtime to a minimum.

I recommend that you get an operators manual and study it well. My plan is to have 6 sharp sickles for each mower. That gets me through one cutting with ease. Make sure your sickles are sharp and your guards (or ledger plates) are sharp.

I have a 5,6,7 and 9 foot mower. The 5 and 6 are old horse drawn machines that seldom get used. I have a seven foot Massey Harris No. 6 that will give an honest days service. It is a pitman type. It does not break pitman sticks if the machine is set up right, and I don't push it to hard. Not bad for a 50 year old machine.
I also have a balanced head belt driven 9 footer, it works great. When putting up hay, we use the 9 and the 7, glue our butts to the tractor seat and knock down alot of hay!

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paul

10-07-2003 20:43:59




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 Re: Sickle Bar Questions in reply to Bill, 10-07-2003 14:23:13  
Don't see many 9' around here - too wide to get through a gate, too tall to get in a shed.

Pull behind work fine, easier to mount. 3-point are much more manuverable.

Belt & wobble are better than pitman. But pitman work fine too.

Any of the 3point mount about the same, you learn the tricks to make your model work out, & it'll be more or less like any other.

My crystal ball says you are lookiing for a sickle mower? : ) :) :) What tractor do you have?

--->Paul

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Nebraska Cowman

10-07-2003 19:10:37




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 Re: Sickle Bar Questions in reply to Bill, 10-07-2003 14:23:13  
Oh Bill, you ask a lot of questions. Do you need a mower for your tractor? What are you planning to use it for? i think maybe 7 foot was a good length in the old days as it is about the width of the tractor. The horse mowers were narrower so the horsie could pull them. Then we got in a hurry and went to nine foot. For just trimming around the place you will find that the 7 foot is handier. The belt driven machines get rid of that pesky pitman stick but they have to vibrate a little or the hay won't fall off the bar. I think it is hard to beat the old #5 john deere on a two cylinder B, you get it timed right and the bar goes back and forth with the pistons and it is a cutting fool. Now myself, I like my Allis 80R but it takes about 15 minutes to mount. I'm sure we will get some other imput here.

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