Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Priming a baler engine

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Tom A

08-17-2003 09:57:24




Report to Moderator

I've got a NH 66 with a Wisconsin TFD 2 cyl engine. Starts easy and runs great most of the time. Only exception is when the baler has sat unused for a few weeks. The gas all runs out of the line from the tank to the engine, and I guess the gas in the carb float bowl must evaporate, too. The engine just won't start until get fuel up into the carb float bowl and at least some in the line...from there, the engine runs enough to pull the gas on its own.

But I haven't yet figured out a good way to prime it. The little brass lever that runs the fuel pump manually just doesn't have enough 'ooompf' to pull the gas when the thing is dry. Anybody have a good, easy way to get the engine primed?

thanks,
tom

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
ErnieD

08-18-2003 16:08:59




Report to Moderator
 Re: Priming a baler engine in reply to Tom A, 08-17-2003 09:57:24  
Try turning the engine over one turn and then try the little priming lever. They often stop in the same place each time and if you are on the high spot of the cam the pump don't.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bob G

08-18-2003 06:59:12




Report to Moderator
 Re: Priming a baler engine in reply to Tom A, 08-17-2003 09:57:24  
Have you thought about putting one of those bulb type primers on that were used on snowmobiles.

Bob G



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
TimV

08-18-2003 06:18:31




Report to Moderator
 Re: Priming a baler engine in reply to Tom A, 08-17-2003 09:57:24  
Tom A: I've got a 2-cylinder Wisconsin that acts the same way. The previous owner had installed a primer bulb in the gas line, which helps immensely. It's a cheap fix, and can't hurt.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bruce

08-17-2003 20:44:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: Priming a baler engine in reply to Tom A, 08-17-2003 09:57:24  
Mine was the same way. I cleaned and tightened all of the fittings and changed the bowl gasket. Also turn the fuel valve off when done so the gas does not siphon down to the tank. Now i can just use the hand pump a couple of strokes and it will start. At the beginning of the season i take the air hose off spray a little starting fluid in the carb and it will prime itself.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
NHBalerman

08-17-2003 19:39:08




Report to Moderator
 Re: Priming a baler engine in reply to Tom A, 08-17-2003 09:57:24  
I hate to admit it but I had to put a electric fuel pump on my 66. I know it is not factory original but I got it hid. My cam shaft was worn enough that after you get it primed the pump would not suck enough gas to keep it running,put a electric fuel pump on it and run the wires up to the tractor with a switch to turn it off if the engine caught fire to keep from feeding the fire. Something about pouring gas on a fire it just makes the fire bigger for some reason.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bernie

08-17-2003 16:52:59




Report to Moderator
 Re: Priming a baler engine in reply to Tom A, 08-17-2003 09:57:24  
I loosen the gasline fitting at the carb, take the cap off the tank and blow as hard as I can into it. When I see gas I tighten the fitting. It helps if someone can watch and tighten it for you. Ater that it will start with the choke.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Sid

08-17-2003 15:59:24




Report to Moderator
 Re: Priming a baler engine in reply to Tom A, 08-17-2003 09:57:24  
If you haven't done so you might loosen the cap to the fuel tank or remove it. If things seem to work better I suspect you need a vented cap.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Joel Harman

08-17-2003 15:30:16




Report to Moderator
 Re: Priming a baler engine in reply to Tom A, 08-17-2003 09:57:24  
pressurize the gas tank.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Scott

08-17-2003 13:26:26




Report to Moderator
 Re: Priming a baler engine in reply to Tom A, 08-17-2003 09:57:24  
It may need a kit in the fuel pump or the pipe going down inside the tank may have pin holes in.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Dick Davis

08-18-2003 05:32:42




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Priming a baler engine in reply to Scott, 08-17-2003 13:26:26  
NH 80 Wisconsin VP4D engine. My solution was to install a valve stem and cap(no core)into the air pipe between the filter and carb. A little starting fluid and off she goes. I know starting fluid is not good for long term use but exactly what does it do to harm the engine? P.S. I can't even imagine hand cranking this engine on even a cold day! Dick Davis



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
starting isn't bad

08-18-2003 09:34:09




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: Priming a baler engine in reply to Dick Davis, 08-18-2003 05:32:42  
Normally my engine kicks over on the first or second turn...even after sitting a few days or a week. It's just when the fuel is not in the lines, and it takes a few weeks for that to happen. Before I got it all tuned up and running well, I think I cranked it a million turns by hand--that was a pain!

tom a



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Don-Wi

08-18-2003 07:24:03




Report to Moderator
 Re: Re: Re: Priming a baler engine in reply to Dick Davis, 08-18-2003 05:32:42  
As for what does starting fluid do to harm an engine? the cylinder wall have a very light coating of oil that helps lubricate the rings and pistons. Once you inject starting fluid, this washes off the oil so it is bare metal to metal contact, causing exessive wear on the pistons, rings, and cylinders. Once this starts to happen, the engine looses compresion, is harder to start, so you use more starting fluid, enhancing the problem. Usually, once you start using starting fluid, it doesn't take long for an engine to get hooked on it, especially if it's already old and tired. If used with some common sense and not over done, it isn't all to bad on an engine. Just be smart with it.
Donovan from Wisconsin

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy