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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

JD 14T baler tension

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green acres

08-13-2003 06:53:58




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My 14T is tying great but the ropes are too loose and one is alot looser than the other. I have a book coming but I also have hay down and need to use it before it gets here. How do I tighten the tension on the line for tighter bales?




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Thomas D. Smith

08-20-2003 19:01:22




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 Re: JD 14T baler tension in reply to green acres, 08-13-2003 06:53:58  
I checked into the "hay resistors" and in N.E.Ga. there is still 56 of these items around about $50.00 to $65.00 ea. I think but worth it yours might worn very flat. its a project I hope to complete in the near future on my 14T.

Tom N.E.Ga.



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green acres

08-13-2003 09:41:04




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 Re: JD 14T baler tension in reply to green acres, 08-13-2003 06:53:58  
Thank you all. Will look at and adjust those bolts to start. Been running a 14T for 5 years and after shearing my second set of needles, I found another whole machine for $100 more than two new needles. Of course I bought it for the used needles but found out my newest machine worked great. Baled almost 300 and only lost first three or four until good twine got through it. Needless to say it is my primary machine. Only thing is it does not have a thrower and I need to move it over from my original machine. I will wait for the manual before doing that this fall. Does not look like too difficult of a job though. Thanks for all your help.

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Warren

08-13-2003 08:39:17




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 Re: JD 14T baler tension in reply to green acres, 08-13-2003 06:53:58  
Colorado Curt refers to the two cranks. My 14T does not have cranks, only long bolts that go through the springs. This may be due to the fact that it used to have a blae thrower on it. I use a 7/8" socket (I think that is the size) to adjust the tightness. BTW, my baler does not care if it is eating a light or a heavy windrow. It makes bales just fine either way.
Good luck.



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Colorado Curt

08-13-2003 07:10:11




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 Re: JD 14T baler tension in reply to green acres, 08-13-2003 06:53:58  
The bale tension is controlled by the two cranks at the rear of the bale chamber. The lopsided tension is usually caused by light windrows causing the chamber to only patially fill. I have found that the 14T works best with a heavy windrow.

You are on the right track in getting the manual. These balers are not as complicated as they may seem. A good manual and some common sense go a long way. A little help from the discussion board helps also. Good luck.

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Rob

08-13-2003 07:50:43




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 Re: Re: JD 14T baler tension in reply to Colorado Curt, 08-13-2003 07:10:11  
Still too wet here to turn a wheel. Good to hear from other 14T users. Further to previous post, a starting point I use is about 1"- 1 1/2" of thread showing above the spring. This can vary due to the springs' strength. I agree, the heavier the windrow the better. The hay compressors at the front of the pickup are there for a reason. Put thru as much material as you can without overloading the machine or breaking shear bolts. The plunger knife needs to be very sharp when doing this. I'd also check for bale retarder plates installed on the sides of the bale chamber past the plunger head. These help to make a denser bale. Also check for proper hay dog operation (spring(s) may be broken). The hay dogs (2) are on the underside of the top of the bale chute, underneath the knotters. As mentioned, the manual is essential to understanding and setting up these machines. Hope this helps.

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