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Whats the best setup

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David(KY)

04-19-2003 05:00:45




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I have a ford 9n that i want to start using for my garden...80'X 100'. What type of equipment would i need..plow,disk,etc
I've always used a walk behind tiller,but i'm getting older and i need a easier way for the garden.
Thanks in advance for any info
David(KY)




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Bret

04-23-2003 05:22:22




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 Re: whats the best setup in reply to David(KY), 04-19-2003 05:00:45  
If you really want easy, go to a permanant deep mulch system as advocated by Ruth Stout and the Rodale Organic folks. Looks like bloody'ell, but it works. Basicaly 18" of straw mulch over the whole garden. Pull it aside to plant, never tilled. It does work.



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Hugh MacKay

04-19-2003 21:46:00




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 Re: whats the best setup in reply to David(KY), 04-19-2003 05:00:45  
David: I have a plow for my tractor and I only use that plow about every second year. What I use that plow for is to plow down buckwheat just before it goes to seed. I have two gardens and rotate every year between garden and buckwheat. A good thick crop of buckwheat will crowd weeds out. great green manure for plow down. Builds organic matter.

The tool I use most I had fabricated. I went to a farm equipment dealer and purchased S-type cultivator tines, with clamps, points, etc. Each one will cost about $10. Cdn. I had a welder build me a frame for my rear hitch, with two cross tool bars 5/8" x 2" for mounting tines on. I have 12 of these tines. I can line them up on the two tool bars on 6" spacing for field cultivation, and can rearrange them for row work. I have points and 6" sweeps for all tines. I also have 3 - V type hiller hoes that I can use if I want to make rows. These S-tines are very rugged, they will also go deep enough if you let them for 12 of them to stop your 9N dead in its tracks. The clamps for these tines are designed for clamping to a tool bar that is 1/2" x 2". I personally like 5/8" x 2", tines stay tight better and make your frame just a bit more rugged.

If you have any questions on details of this e mail me. I did have some problms in beginning with frame not being rugged enough. I leave my cultivator on tractor all summer, have a box that clamps on top if I need to haul something. I even have a hitch on back so I can hitch to trailer without removing cultivator.

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Hal

04-19-2003 14:02:38




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 Re: whats the best setup in reply to David(KY), 04-19-2003 05:00:45  
Since you've already been rototilling and planting the ground it should be in pretty good shape. I would get a 2-bottom 12" or 14" plow and plow it one-way. You will only have to make 40-50 passes depending on the direction you plow in. Just make a pass with the plow and then back up with the wheel in the furrow and go again, you'll be done in no time; this way you will only end up with one open furrow on the side and no "dead" furrow in the middle. Next time you plow (next season or whenever), start from the opposite side. A 3-pt disk a little wider than the wheels should smooth things out and keep the weeds under control until you plant.
From that point, it depends on what you are growing and how fancy you want to get. Either a cultivator, some kind of harrow or a bed-shaper to smooth the ground and fill in the disk marks, or just drag something behind the disk.

Depending on what you are growing, you might be able to use your walk-behind tiller to cultivate between tomato rows, etc. if you dont get a tractor cultivator. You will only have to skim the surface with the rototiller. I would say forget about a rototiller on a 9N, they won't run slow enough.

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Hugh MacKay

04-19-2003 21:04:10




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 Re: Re: whats the best setup in reply to Hal, 04-19-2003 14:02:38  
Hal: Who ever convinced you that a rototiller would have the ground in good shape. They are without question probably the worst tool man ever stuck in the soil. Pulverizing soil to fine particles is precicely how concrete is manufactured. I have often been asked the question," why won't my garden grow." 9 times out of 10 this is what is wrong, turned into cement by a rototiller.



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Hal

04-20-2003 17:50:24




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 Re: Re: Re: whats the best setup in reply to Hugh MacKay, 04-19-2003 21:04:10  
Hugh- You are absolutely right. A rototiller or even a tandem disk can ruin the soil structure if overdone, and it will be worse depending on the soil type and if you go in when it is too wet etc. I would say the least amount of tillage the better.

When I said "good shape" all I meant was like Unimog said below, that he had already done a garden there and it would not be like breaking new ground in sod or overgrown weeds so he should have an easier time of it.

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Hugh MacKay

04-21-2003 16:02:20




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: whats the best setup in reply to Hal, 04-20-2003 17:50:24  
Hal: That over tillage item, I agree can happen with just about any tillage implement. I think it more prevelant in garden plots, small fields, etc. A fellow gets going with it and before he knows it he's done. I never had any problem when on farm and planting 300 acres. Now that I just have a good sized vegetable garden, I tend to make too many passes. May be one little spot I'm not satisfied with, or I want that edge a bit better to blend with grass mowing. Then there is giving the tractor enough exercise. I just plain don't have enough to do with tractor. I'm just not used to being done in an hour.

These guys with tillers are something else, I have two neighbours that go until it's just like flour, and first good rain it's cement. I had one neighbour, did in row tilling, I think every second day all summer. Come fall he couldn't get his potatoes out of ground. He was out with a pick, digging them. He stopped me asked if I would come over with my potato digger. I told him potato digger won't touch that hard soil. I told him to wait for a rain I'd come with tractor and 3 chisel plow type shanks I have on hitch. When we finally did it he didn't have a potato larger than a golf ball. He couldn't understand how I had such a great crop of potatoes just across the fence. I had fertilized his ground with tractor spreader same time and rate as my own. I told him to scrap the tiller, I could see he was doubting me. I said go over with your fork and dig a hill of my potatoes. You could get most potatoes under a plant with about 3 swipes of bare hand in my field. The next year same old same old. The part that got me about this guy was he probably had more money tied up in a Troy tiller, 3' walk behind snow blower and ride on lawn mower. than I have in my Farmall SA mower, snow blade, plow and cultivator. I'll admit I have more implements than that, but they are just left over from farming, and the 4 mentioned are the ones I use 90% of the time. I could sell the rest, however times might get tough and I may want to go farming again.

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Taylor Lambert

04-19-2003 11:14:48




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 Re: whats the best setup in reply to David(KY), 04-19-2003 05:00:45  
The way we truck farm in the summer is with a 2 bootom breaking plow break it let it sit a dyar or two then disc it in. you may have to harrow it but usually we just run the disk over it. our truck patches are roughly 80 by 100. we use a middle buster to lay off the rows and a one row cultivator the cultivate the plants.



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mj

04-19-2003 09:46:54




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 Re: whats the best setup in reply to David(KY), 04-19-2003 05:00:45  
third party image

I use the tool bar to chisel plow (I add two more shanks than are in the photo; it's shown set up for irrigation re-marking. You don't really need the gauge wheels for plowing), then I drop the toolbar and mount a disc for the second pass. Finally I'll drag a couple of sections of spike-tooth harrow over the field. After your crops start you can go back to three shanks on the toolbar with cultivating sweeps for weed control; just make sure that your rows are planted to fit the wheel spacing on your tractor (we use 2 1/2 foot spacing out here). :-)

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mj

04-19-2003 09:38:57




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 Re: whats the best setup in reply to David(KY), 04-19-2003 05:00:45  
third party image

I use the tool bar to chisel plow (I add two more shanks than are in the photo; it's shown set up for irrigation re-marking. You don't really need the gauge wheels for plowing), then I drop the toolbar and mount a disc for the second pass. Finally I'll drag a couple of sections of spike-tooth harrow over the field. After your crops start you can go back to three shanks on the toolbar with cultivating sweeps for weed control; just make sure that your rows are planted to fit the wheel spacing on your tractor (we use 2 1/2 foot spacing out here). :-)

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Unimog

04-19-2003 06:38:12




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 Re: whats the best setup in reply to David(KY), 04-19-2003 05:00:45  
Somehow I don't think your gardening will be too
much easier using a tractor in such a small area.
The tractor and attachments are heavy but if you
do I would look for a 3-pt harrow to break up the surface spring and fall since it'd an established
garden. New ground you would need a plow or
rototiller.
Your best bet I believe would be to use a rear
tine rototiller that you walk behind. Easy to
move around and you can setup the plantings to
cultivate instead of using a hoe. You can till
under leaves in the fall and they good for cover
crops as well. Something like a Troy-Bilt or BCS.
Good luck, Unimog

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greenbeanman

04-19-2003 07:03:23




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 Re: Re: whats the best setup in reply to Unimog, 04-19-2003 06:38:12  
A lot will depend on your soil type.

I would say plow in the fall, disk in the spring and then harrow.

You might also add lots of leaves or straw after plowing in the fall, then disk it in.

As to walk behind rear tine tillers, I have used both a Troybilt and a BCS. The BCS is by far the easiest on a person, and does a much better job--in my opinion.



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