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Planting corn for newbies 101

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Okla/Kans Bill

03-13-2003 18:42:53




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It occured to me after reading some of the posts in here that sombody might find it benificial to get some advice on planting corn, so, form the experienc of 34 yrs ill say this much. #1 NEVER BACK UP WITH THE PLANTER TRIPPED AND IN THE GROUND> In some instances, as with some JD, and IHC and probaby others, dont b ack up period, azs youll npot only plug your drop pipes with fresh dirt, youll break off the rear press wheels. So the bst advice is, if your planter has more than 2 wheels on the ground, and its old, dont back perod. If you do back up, and if you do get fresh dirt in the drop pipe, youll find out it actually go up some inches inside the pipe and is hades to clear out. If you dont find out you plgged up your pipes, youll go merrily down the rows planting nothing, and grinding up your seed corn under the planter box, or maybe just planting every other row. If you are a newbie, then strive for straight rows, not wavy , contoured ones unless you have to. Cultivating straight rows is bad enough on a newbie, but to have to follow snakes with broken backs up and down the row is alful. nNot to mention how much corn you will bre taking out while doing so. Try to keep your rear tractor tire track from the preceeding trip straight and easy to follow when you make ther return trip. I plant with a 1934 CC Case. If I place my rear tire in the previous tire track, then Im planting in 30in rows. If I half lap the track on the inside betwee tthe track and the planted row, that is still ok, but if I put the rtear tire altogether on the inside of my previous track then ill lose corn when Im cultivating because the schovels will rip it out. Likewisde,, if I get my tire on the outside of the previous tire track, then im losing ground, and if I go out a whole width of the tire, then my cultivators will not be able to get that stretch of weeds and grass and it will grow all season. Always remember to keep checking your sertilzer and or panter boxes to make sure youve got seed and fertilizer in them and are not just planting air in your furrows as youll nevcer know where you ran ut of seed at least till it comes up. MAKE SURE YOUVE GOT THE RIGHT PLANTER PLATES FOR THE TYPE OF SED YOUR PLANTING> Plats come in small, medium rounds, medium flats, and large. So does the seed. Match them

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thurlow

03-15-2003 05:39:43




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 Re: Planting corn for newbies 101 in reply to Okla/Kans Bill, 03-13-2003 18:42:53  
Bill, it's a "given", (isn't it), that by orienting the seed correctly in the ground, the stalks will grow with the leaves parallel to the row direction, as opposed to perpendicular to the row direction, thereby allowing more sunlight to the stalks; just wondering what kind of plates (or drop tubes)you use to accomplish this.....correct orientation of seed.



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Okla/Kans Bill

03-15-2003 07:10:41




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 Re: Re: Planting corn for newbies 101 in reply to thurlow, 03-15-2003 05:39:43  

I was just asked iffn the seed corn is planted in line with the row that the leaves will grow in the row only, rather than out inbetween the row. Ican tell that the writer thereof must never have had to be in the field at 8 00 in the morning with the frost still on the crn and be picking after having helped to milk 12 cows and seperate the milk. Round bout 6 30 9 00 the frost would melt and the corn would be sokaing wet which was why the picker (me) was soaking wet also, but that wa alrght, cause round bout 11 00 you were thourly dry and more r less enjoying, or tolorating picing corn. No, I would assume no matter how the corn is laid in the row, the leaves will grow as they will, all over the stalk

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jls

03-14-2003 18:20:46




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 Re: Planting corn for newbies 101 in reply to Okla/Kans Bill, 03-13-2003 18:42:53  
actually fenders should not touch the ground. Dad very carefully set the cultivator so just a little fine dirt would flow under the fenders at 2nd gear hi range, bro and I set the fenders down to touch the ground about 75% of the time and went to 3rd, 1 season and the fenders had a point sharpened on them-bottom 1/3 was GONE. 2nd cultivation when the corn is a foot or so high fenders get set up higher and inner shovels turn just a little to thro dirt into the row to hill the corn just a little But depend on your soil and moisture how the dirt crumbles

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Okla/Kans Bill

03-14-2003 18:25:31




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 Re: Re: Planting corn for newbies 101 in reply to jls, 03-14-2003 18:20:46  

jls, view 103



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Ray in Pa.

03-13-2003 22:05:14




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 Re: Planting corn for newbies 101 in reply to Okla/Kans Bill, 03-13-2003 18:42:53  
Okla/Kans Bill, That was an interesting post. I also learned the hard way not to back up when planting corn with my 1950 something J.D. corn planter. One day when planting sweet corn, I discovered that I had been planting several rows of nothing, because several rows earlier I had to back up to dislodge a stone and in the process plugged up the planting shoe (or what ever its call it). My main problem is how to cultivate the corn close enough (with the front mounted cultivators on my Farmall 300) so as to cultivate the dirt towards the young little corn plants so as to control the weeds while yet not having the dirt lay them over. It always seems like I always get heavy down pours that packs the dirt before I can cultivate for the first time, and that results in the dirt only breaking up in big ckunks that want to roll over onto the little corn plants.

Thanks Ray in Pa.

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Okla/Kans Bill

03-15-2003 12:19:18




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 Re: Re: Planting corn for newbies 101 in reply to Ray in Pa., 03-13-2003 22:05:14  

Let your corn get around 10in before plowing it(Thats the old time term for cultivating). If your not going to spray for weeds, you might want to plow it 3 times. 2 is normal. Youll justy have to look at it and decide weather it needs another go round or not. Wait to harrow it till the corn is around 3/4 ins. once is normal, but twice is not unheard of, just remember as you harrow down the ridges, yourcausing the harrow to come down closer to the plant itself, and you might break stalks by harrowing twice. Again youll have to look at your field and deide if the ridges is high enough to go over it again with the harrow and not break down the corn, or if it really een needs a second harrowing, or, if you want to wait for a couple of weeks and start plowing it. When its finaly laid by (thats the other old time term for the last plowing, whatever number it is, it should be touching the crossbars that hold your schovel brakets sections with the leaves, but not the stalk

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Okla/Kans Bill

03-15-2003 12:18:06




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 Re: Re: Planting corn for newbies 101 in reply to Ray in Pa., 03-13-2003 22:05:14  

Let your corn get around 10in before plowing it(Thats the old time term for cultivating). If your not going to spray for weeds, you might want to plow it 3 times. 2 is normal. Youll justy have to look at it and decide weather it needs another go round or not. Wait to harrow it till the corn is around 3/4 ins. once is normal, but twice is not unheard of, just remember as you harrow down the ridges, yourcausing the harrow to come down closer to the plant itself, and you might break stalks by harrowing twice. Again youll have to look at your field and deide if the ridges is high enough to go over it again with the harrow and not break down the corn, or if it really een needs a second harrowing, or, if you want to wait for a couple of weeks and start plowing it. When its finaly laid by (thats the other old time term for the last plowing, whatever number it is, it should be touching the crossbars that hold your schovel brakets sections with the leaves, but not the stalk

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Jack

03-14-2003 17:24:12




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 Re: Re: Planting corn for newbies 101 in reply to Ray in Pa., 03-13-2003 22:05:14  
Thanks for the planting 101 tips. How tall should the corn be before you cultivate the first time, and how often should it be done? Thanks, I am a newbie and want to do this right.



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Okla/Kans Bill

03-14-2003 14:06:42




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 Re: Re: Planting corn for newbies 101 in reply to Ray in Pa., 03-13-2003 22:05:14  

Corn planting 102-----Always check your planter tubes to make sure before you start out to plant anything that there is no obstructions in the tubes. A cobweb lefdt unnatended all year, and built upon all that time is pretty tough and wll hold seed up from dropping/ Now, if cultivatin g close to plants, get/find, or make a set of fenders for your cultivator. I haver never used them, but I intend to make me a sety this year as I work at a fab shop. They are just 2 pieces of 16ga or so steel, around 8in wide and about 16in long. They have a slope on one of the ends so as to glide above the ground-kinda like a sled runner curve. This hangsx from brackets up to your cultivator frame. It must be set around 2in from the ground and the back end b able to swivel up and down so have a chain going from the braket, a foot above where it fastens to the fewnder and angler out to around 14in from the front end, or 2in or so from the rear. This will keep clods off the young corn plants. But harrow, or rotery hoe untiol the corn is bending under the freames slightlyor uil you think the harrow is not doing the job on the weeds. By that time the corn plants should be strong enough to be able to take pretty musch what gets leaned against them

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JMS/MN

03-14-2003 05:41:45




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 Re: Re: Planting corn for newbies 101 in reply to Ray in Pa., 03-13-2003 22:05:14  
Do you have shields for your cultivator? They will keep the dirt from falling onto the small plants. Old cultivators had metal shields that mounted over each row, some shield were flat side, others were full hoods over the row. Now if we need to cultivate young plants, we use rolling shields, allowing higher field speeds. Regarding row spacing and following tire tracks, the planter should have marker arms that leave a mark to follow with the centerline of the tractor. If set to the proper distance, rows are evenly spaced, and cultivation will not tear out the adjacent row. Nor will there be wide gaps, as long as you follow the mark.

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Tim(nj)

03-14-2003 11:50:26




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 Re: Re: Re: Planting corn for newbies 101 in reply to JMS/MN, 03-14-2003 05:41:45  
You can also pick up an old drag-type rotary hoe cheap to bust the crust when the plants are really small, then go with the cultivator when they're bigger.



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Ray in Pa.

03-14-2003 21:45:22




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Planting corn for newbies 101 in reply to Tim(nj), 03-14-2003 11:50:26  
Thanks Tim(nj), I've never seen a drag type rotary hoe and this might be what I need. I'm not exactly sure what they look like, But I will have to check around for one.

Thanks, Ray in Pa.



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Ray in Pa.

03-14-2003 21:44:47




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Planting corn for newbies 101 in reply to Tim(nj), 03-14-2003 11:50:26  
Thanks Tim(nj), I've never seen a drag type rotary hoe and this might be what I need. I'm not exactly sure what they look like, But I will have to check around for one.

Thanks, Ray in Pa.



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Ray in Pa.

03-13-2003 22:03:29




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 Re: Planting corn for newbies 101 in reply to Okla/Kans Bill, 03-13-2003 18:42:53  
Okla/Kans Bill, That was an interesting post. I also learned the hard way not to back up when planting corn with my 1950 something J.D. corn planter. One day when planting sweet corn, I discovered that I had been planting several rows of nothing, because several rows earlier I had to back up to dislodge a stone and in the process plugged up the planting shoe (or what ever its call it). My main problem is how to cultivate the corn close enough (with the front mounted cultivators on my Farmall 300) so as to cultivate the dirt towards the young little corn plants so as to control the weeds while yet not having the dirt lay them over. It always seems like I always get heavy down pours that packs the dirt before I can cultivate for the first time, and that results in the dirt only breaking up in big ckunks that want to roll over onto the little corn plants.

Thanks Ray in Pa.

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