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Tooth replacement on sickle mower blade

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Michael

11-14-2002 07:44:14




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I need to replace a few broken teeth on my sickle mower blade. One fellow said to use a punch and knock out the old rivets then fasten the new teeth with new rivets and peen them over. Sounds easy enough. Is there anything else I should know to do a good job? Thanks,




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David B

11-14-2002 16:00:29




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 Re: tooth replacement on sickle mower blade in reply to Michael, 11-14-2002 07:44:14  
Yes, if you let the sections hang down through jaws on the vice with the bar resting on the jaw, just a couple good wacks will shear the rivets off, usually have to take a punch and knock the rivets out of the bar, now go down to a farm supply store and buy bolts that are made to replace those rivets. Next time you can replace those sections with a little wrench without removing the sickle.



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David B

11-14-2002 15:56:57




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 Re: tooth replacement on sickle mower blade in reply to Michael, 11-14-2002 07:44:14  
Yes if you let the sections hang down through jaws on the vice with the bar resting on the jaw, just a couple good wacks will shear the rivets off, usually have to take a punch and knock the rivets out of the bar, now go down to a farm supply store and buy bolts that are made to replace those rivets. Next time you can replace those sections with a little wrench without removing the sickle.



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Michael

11-14-2002 10:15:48




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 Re: tooth replacement on sickle mower blade in reply to Michael, 11-14-2002 07:44:14  
Thank you very much. Now I know how to replace the teeth. You guys are great!



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Michael

11-14-2002 09:26:09




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 Re: tooth replacement on sickle mower blade in reply to Michael, 11-14-2002 07:44:14  
Thanks, gentlemen. I'm having a little trouble visualizing what you both are describing. Do I secure the bar in the vise or does it rest on top of the vise with just enough room to fall down and away from the tooth that is resting on the vise? Would you please explain it one more time? Maybe it would help me if I had the sickle bar in front of me. I'll pick it up tonight.



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I put a sketch in the implement photo site

11-14-2002 09:56:26




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 Re: Re: tooth replacement on sickle mower blade in reply to Michael, 11-14-2002 09:26:09  
Maybe it'll help, maybe it won't.

Tom A



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Tom A

11-14-2002 09:37:02




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 Re: Re: tooth replacement on sickle mower blade in reply to Michael, 11-14-2002 09:26:09  
GENTLEMEN!!! Nobody *ever* got away with calling me that before! You musta been talkin' to F14.

I knew this was going to be hard to describe. The sickle tooth falls thru the partly-closed vice, but the bar rests on the vice jaw. That way, the bar can't go anywhere, it is held up by the vice jaw but the tooth is just hanging thru with nothing but air beneath. When you rap on the back of the tooth, the bar remains stationary because of the vice jaw and the tooth wants to move down in reaction to the hammer blow...something has to 'give' and it is the rivets that are going thru the tooth and the bar; they shear right off.

Don't know if that's any clearer. If not, I'll try to do a sketch...can't do a picture 'cuz I don't want to take my sicklebar apart today!

Tom A

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Tom A

11-14-2002 08:09:55




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 Re: tooth replacement on sickle mower blade in reply to Michael, 11-14-2002 07:44:14  
That'll work. I'll tell you what I do, hopefully I can explain it cuz it works easier/quicker.

If you open the jaws of a vise a little wider than the teeth are thick, you can put the whole bar assembly in the vice horizontally so that a broken tooth slides through but the holding bar doesn't cuz it catches on the vice. While it is supported like that, you can rap the tooth with a hammer and it will sheer the old rivet right off. You can take off a bunch of broken teeth in a hurry that way, one at a time.

Second thing--I've been replacing my rivets with bolts as the teeth break. Some mowers *might* need new blade hold-downs for a little extra clearance, but not all. The newer mowers are using the bolts, and you can get them at parts places...they have self-locking aluminum nuts and knurled insides so you can tighten them down even though they don't protrude very far. Slightly more expensive than rivets but lots easier.

take care,
Tom

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F14 - Depends

11-14-2002 08:08:06




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 Re: tooth replacement on sickle mower blade in reply to Michael, 11-14-2002 07:44:14  
Are you doing the job with the sickle in the machine, or taking it out first?

With it in the machine, you'll want a good solid backing to set the section you're working with on. You'll also likely want to grind the heads off the rivets before punching them out. Less likelyhood of boogering something up with a mis-directed hit that way.

If you have the sickle out of the bar, the fast way to remove the individual sections is to open a vise just wide enough to allow the section to slip through, leaving the bar they mount to resting on one jaw. A sharp smack to the back (flat part) of the section will shear the rivets off, and you're done.

I spent $50 on a tool to do all this, used it for about 15 minutes, got fed up with it and went backt to doing it with a punch and a ballpein hammer.

When setting the new rivets, the idea is to peen them over with several relatively light strokes to work the metal gradually, not to squash them with one mighty whack. You'll get a better set, and the section will be tighter that way.

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jal-SD

11-14-2002 09:09:42




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 Re: Re: tooth replacement on sickle mower blade in reply to F14 - Depends, 11-14-2002 08:08:06  
If/when you use the vice method, be sure to hit the BACK edge of the section & look out, its gonna FLY!

I have a couple of tools that I've picked up @ auctions that will allow you to put individual sections into the sickle while its still in the bar. Only those folks who live in hay country know what they are & how to use 'em, so you can usually get 'em for a song. (I think I paid $1.00 for one & $0.50 for the other one.) They work good, if ya know how to use them.

F14 is right about the other kind of "machines" that are supposed to be faster, better, etc. for replacing sections. Ballpein hammer is best. BTW, I grew up on a farm w/180A of alfalfa hay ground, & I cut it ALL at least 3 times a year (sometimes we'd even get a 4th, depending on moisture) starting when I was in the 6th grade. I've replaced a LOT of sections. Completely wore out one mower & was workin on the second one when I went away to college. Lots of summers all I did was cut hay, eli corn &/or milo, cut hay, cut grain & then cut more hay. Worked @it every day from the time school was out until it started again. (My $0.02 worth. jal-SD)

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jal-SD

11-14-2002 09:08:30




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 Re: Re: tooth replacement on sickle mower blade in reply to F14 - Depends, 11-14-2002 08:08:06  
If/when you use the vice method, be sure to hit the BACK edge of the section & look out, its gonna FLY!

I have a couple of tools that I've picked up @ auctions that will allow you to put individual sections into the sickle while its still in the bar. Only those folks who live in hay country know what they are & how to use 'em, so you can usually get 'em for a song. (I think I paid $1.00 for one & $0.50 for the other one.) They work good, if ya know how to use them.

F14 is right about the other kind of "machines" that are supposed to be faster, better, etc. for replacing sections. Ballpein hammer is best. BTW, I grew up on a farm w/180A of alfalfa hay ground, & I cut it ALL at least 3 times a year (sometimes we'd even get a 4th, depending on moisture) starting when I was in the 6th grade. I've replaced a LOT of sections. Completely wore out one mower & was workin on the second one when I went away to college. Lots of summers all I did was cut hay, eli corn &/or milo, cut hay, cut grain & then cut more hay. Worked @it every day from the time school was out until it started again. (My $0.02 worth. jal-SD)

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