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Discussion Forum

MF #10 baler

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Kevin Moore

07-11-2002 21:47:44




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I just got a #10 baler that seems to be in pretty good condition, considering it has been sitting under a tree for the few years. The problem is, the plunger is stuck and stuck solid. Is there a good way to break this loose without breaking anything? Also, once I get it unstuck, what should I do with the track that it rides on?

Also, are parts still available for this machine?

Thanks.




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Nellie

07-12-2002 15:50:49




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 Re: MF #10 baler in reply to Kevin Moore, 07-11-2002 21:47:44  
I bought one yrs ago stuck, but it had been inside at least the last couple of yrs anyway. I used 4x4s or wood fence posts and beat against the plunger, hitting the wood posts with a sledge. We used a lot of oil and two of us worked all afternoon on it. After it moved enough to hook up the PTO it still was stiff for about 400 bales.

If you get it moving, be sure the drive chains have most of the back lash out of them or you will be buying the other baler and using this one for parts.
Good luck

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Barney

07-12-2002 06:49:13




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 Re: MF #10 baler in reply to Kevin Moore, 07-11-2002 21:47:44  
Kevin, I'm using a MF #10 baler now. We have two that will bale, and two for parts because the parts are so expensive. I bought a new manual from MF for about $30.00 and that included a shop manual and an owner's manual. My suggestion to you concerning the stuck plunger is this: find another model 10 that has been under the shelter, and use the stuck one for parts. Other wise you'll spend so much money, that you might as well go and buy a late model baler! I love the MF Balers, they are great, but then we got lucky and bought some that were under the barn from a man that took care of them! Otherwise, we would have had to buy a much newer model because the prices of the parts are not that much different. Just my 2 cents worth anyway. Good luck to you. Barney in South Ga.

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Tom A

07-12-2002 03:07:07




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 Re: MF #10 baler in reply to Kevin Moore, 07-11-2002 21:47:44  
Kevin:

I just sold 2 MF #10s, one I used for parts the other for baling. I have a couple of suggestions, but defer to others with more baler experience than I on the others.

First: many parts are still available from MF dealer, although some tend to be very expensive (needles, for example, run something like $200 each). That was why I got the second parts baler.

Second: Unless you're really baler knowledgable, I'd suggest ordering and reading the operator's manual from MF before you try it out! I didn't and broke both needles very quickly (see price above! ouch.) Then carefully go through the timing procedure and measurements to make sure all is well before you take it out in the field.

Third: I would think lots of 'liquid wrench' or equal dripped along the rails that the plunger rides on, and letting it soak in for a couple of days should loosen the plunger up. There should be some 'play' in it--I forget just how much--so once the rust is softened up a little you can probably vibrate it loose by rocking the flywheel back and forth **by hand**. I wouldn't hook the tractor to it until you check timing.

Good luck,
Tom A

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