shortening auger drive chain?

The chain does, in fact, have a tension adjustment, but it is adjusted as far as it will go. The chain is clearly too long - presumably stretched since the spreader is like me...old and tired.

The chain is made of links that are formed from flat steel, probably a little less than 1/8" thick. The links are around 1-1/2 to 2" long and the only thing I can see stamped on them is a nunmber 55 on each link.

I don't know what a new chain would cost -it has 30 links - but I'm half Russian and half Hungarian, plus about 95% scotch, so my first inclination is to remove a link. My wife and her mother - both farm gals - definitely remember dad/hubby removing links from such chains. It looks to me like I could spread the connection with a cold chisel enough to remove a link, and probably bend it back with a carefully applied hammer or press, but they are convinced there's an easier way, and I feel sure that if I can open and close them, they aren't hard enough to last long after that.

Can such a chain be shortened? Or am I really looking for trouble trying to do that?

Your advice would be appreciated.

But, in the meantime, tell me more about this apron thing. On this manure spreader, the auger only has one chain. When it's off, it spins freely. I assume there's no need to worry about any other chains if I remove a link from the one in question...right?

Thanks for your reply.

Iron...What you describe sounds like roller chain - like a bike chain. There is no "thin steel" along the side, nor cotter pins. Links are all identical - flat steel with the "roller" formed by rolling the end of one link around a bar formed by rolling the end of the next link. I figured that the "55" was the chain size. I was at the Massey dealer yesterday and a couple of guys were in looking for a chain and needing it shorter than what the dealer had, and they were talking about shortening it with the connecting link and a tool, but it was roller chain.

Gene...what you say about separating it sounds about right. I hadn't thought about turning at 90-deg, but that sounds right on from what I see.

Thanks both.

Some almost fall apart for you when you turn them, others don't want to come apart for the world! :) I've used a file on them & file the corner just a bit so the one edge slides past with a hammer - you don't want to do much with the file tho!

Some chains (like on an elevator) you don't have much looseness in the chains so you can't get them turned 90 degrees - they frequently have a connector link & pin like a roller chain 'halflink' has.

As others said, _don't_ chisel it wider - busted, hardened, steel is what you'll get.

What kind of spreader with an auger??? Not manure? Fertilizer?

--->Paul

This must be what folks are calling flat chain since there are no cotters or anything like that in sight. Each link is made from a single flat piece of steel.

Thanks for the reply.

If it's not roller chain, you'll be having flat chain for your application. 55 is a common size for it.

--->Paul

The 55 on the links is your chain size.

I myself would not take out the links as you suggest. You won't like the end results. :-)

1 - Look on your chain for a connector link. You can find it by looking for what looks like a thin piece of steel from one end of a link to the other or it will have 2 small cotter pins holding it together. You can pry off the thin steel with a screw driver but make sure it doesn't fly off to parts unknown. If you can't find the connecting link please go to step 2.

2 - Go to your local farm and barn and ask for a chain link tool that will fit #55 roller chain and a connecting link. If you were not able to find the connecting link earlier remove 2 links with the tool and put the chain back together with the connecting link.

3 - Adjust your chain slack and you should be good to go!

My 2 bits worth,

Old Iron