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Post hole digger

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TOM

05-31-2001 09:02:25




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I just purchased a used post hole digger (leinbach) with 9" auger. I still can't figure out how to make it work right. Can anyone explain how to use a generic post hole digger?




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F14

05-31-2001 12:06:46




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 Re: Post hole digger in reply to TOM, 05-31-2001 09:02:25  
You didn't say what didn't work about it, but I'll assume it isn't digging. This is typically caused by one of the following:

You are sitting over a rock, and the screwpoint can't get a grip. Solution is to check with a pry bar and see what's under the tip, and move it.

You are trying to dig through heavy sod, and the flite cutters are clogged. Solution is to remove the sod manually. Good sharp flite cutters help too. I've had mine hard-faced with weld, and ground to a chisel edge.

I usually drop the three-point all the way down to make sure all the weight of the digger is on the tip to help get it started. AS SOON as it starts to dig, I pick up up until it's just digging. If you don't, it will screw itself into the ground and stall the tractor, and you wind up getting it back out with a pipe wrench on the PTO shaft. Then lower the 3 point at the appropriate rate to keep it digging. The "appropriate rate" will depend on the type of soil and the amount of moisture in it. Also, keep engine RPM down to a medium idle. If it's turning too fast, you'll break something if it fetches up on a root or a rock. If you're lucky, it'll just be the shear pin. If not, it could be the PTO gears in the trans.

Sometimes, you are just out of luck. If you don't have down-pressure on your three-point, and the ground is hard dry clay, it just won't dig no matter what you do.

Be careful around that thing. The auger flites will nab a loose pantleg in a heartbeat and it won't even slow down as it munches on your leg. Keep all the PTO shields in place, and be darn careful around the joints. Keep kids out of the area. If you have a helper, make darn sure he/she knows the danger points and stays away from them. Don't climb down off the tractor without taking it out of gear. ABOVE ALL, resist the urge to stand of the digger or 3-point arms to "add a little weight and make it dig better".

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TOM

05-31-2001 13:11:36




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 Re: Re: Post hole digger in reply to F14, 05-31-2001 12:06:46  
You just about covered most of the problems I have had. Is it normal for it to wobble around and shake the tractor while digging. Once I get the auger out, the hole is about 12 inches and fills back in with loose dirt. I have to dig it out with hand post hole diggers. Also, what is the long pipe bolted to the gear box pointing towards the tractor used for? What tractors have down pressure on the 3pt?

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F14

05-31-2001 15:31:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Post hole digger in reply to TOM, 05-31-2001 13:11:36  
Paul's comment about sway blocks is well taken. I don't use them, and mine flops around quite a lot and wallows out the hole. I have a 9" auger but I set pretty big posts so that's not a problem for me. It'll rattle the tractor pretty good if there's a rock or something on the edge of the hole too.

His tip about shutting it off (or pushing in the clutch if you don't have live PTO) and hauling it up works pretty good, but you'll still wind up cleaning out the hole with hand diggers in my experience.

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Paul

05-31-2001 14:00:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Post hole digger in reply to TOM, 05-31-2001 13:11:36  
Tom, you may have a bent auger tube. That will make it wobble bad. Also, I use sway blocks on my three point hitch to keep the arms from swinging. Helps stabilize the situation. The pipe you mentioned is probably a handle that's used to position the point of the digger before you begin digging. I always dig out one shovelful of dirt with a round point shovel at each post location. With my loose old digger, I've found that it saves time for me in the long run by giving the point a spot to "run" to. I dig the one shovelful at each hole and then come back and dig all the holes with the digger. On cleaning the hole of loose dirt: when you reach the depth you want, shut the digger off and lift it out of the hole. The loose dirt will ride the auger out of the hole. After it's out of the hole, kick the PTO on and it will sling the dirt around the hole and reduce the hand cleanout. With my setup, I always have to ease the tractor forward slightly as it goes down in order to keep the hole plumb. Don't try to do it all at once or you'll be an expert on that bent auger that I mentioned above. Some of the old Internationals had down pressure on the three point hitch, but it shouldn't be necessary if your auger is sharp. I think that most augers had removable cutting edges that could be sharpened on a grinder. Please observe all the cautions mentioned in the other posts. You can get hurt REAL bad if it grabs any clothes or body parts.

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