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Sam, I'm really confused now (easy for me to get that way). The needle should come up,twine disc grabs twine tucker fingers kick the twine over, bill hook grabs twine and ties knot, needles retract, wiper arm wipes knot and cuts twine with knife. It should all be one smooth fluid motion. If the needle is jumping or bouncing that sounds like a loose needle brake or a broken tooth on one of the gears. Just wear I wouldn't think would cause it. I caould never think of a case where the needle would ever come back before time to tie another bale. Nearly always hanging knots are either fouling on the billhook or the wiper plate needs to be adjusted closer. Here are some settings: Twine disc 70# pull, needle to knotter clearence 1/32" to 3/32", wiper plate to bill hook no more than 3/32 and should touch bill hook with 5-10# drag, bill hook jaw pressure 5-15# and open 1/8". My email is [email protected] but I won't be back to it until Monday. Try completel removing all hay from the baler, get someone to help you by turning the flywheel while you watch the tying cycle in slow motion to see if something isn't doing what it should. One of the neighbor kids loves when I have baler probelms because I usually pay him $20.00 to turn the flywheel for me (cheap in the long run). One last thing twine problems cause more knotter problems than any other single factor. If the twine is or has been wet or damp (ever) pitch it and get fresh. My baler does best on either plastic or PREMIUM 10,000' sisal(I use Southern States Premium sisal or Bridon Cordage plastic, plastic for most because its stronger and ships better, sisal if the buyer insists or if I plan to graze the field). The 9000' sisal is larger diameter and just doesn't do as well. Some of the cheap twine actually has sisal husk in it and really gums up the works. Best of luck!! Without the book and the pictures in it I would have had to get out of the square bale business. Email me and I'll get back to you Monday
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