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Replacing wood bearings in cultipacker

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Bob Lewis

02-28-2001 14:31:56

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I've recently bought a badly worn set of two row cultipackers, not sure of manufacturer. The bearings are gone and I was wondering if any one sells these or knows the best way to make new ones? Any particular kind of wood (oak or beech), better than others? Do you taper the outside diameters a bit for pressing in or do anything to insure that the bearing stays in? Let me know your experience and what works best in repairing these. Thanks, BOB

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Robert in W. Mi.

03-04-2001 14:30:28

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Re: replacing wood bearings in cultipacker in reply to Bob Lewis, 02-28-2001 14:31:56

I had a wheel disc one time that the wood berrings were worn out. I took the disc apart and found one wood berring good enough to measure, and copy. The origionals were made of oak, and as i have a lot of black oak on my farm that's very hard that's what i used. I measured the total width of the berring. Then i took two pieces of B. oak, and made them equil width, so together they matched the total width i needed. I then used yellow glue and glued the blocks together, "BUT" i put a piece of brown paper (from a grocery sack)between them. I then cut the blocks to length, and turned the block on my lathe. Next i bored the proper size hole through the center of the blocks (paper)that i needed, and driller the hole to match where the grease fitting was alined. Once all this is done, the paper will allow you to split the blocks apart with out splintering into the needed halves. Add grease, and assemble! Robert

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rem

03-01-2001 18:16:25

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Re: replacing wood bearings in cultipacker in reply to Bob Lewis, 02-28-2001 14:31:56

Hi,
Use hard maple.
Can't help with the rest of your question.

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bbott

03-01-2001 12:31:48

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Re: replacing wood bearings in cultipacker in reply to Bob Lewis, 02-28-2001 14:31:56

Lignum Vitae (often spoken as lignavita) was a wood commonly used for machine bearings before the modern materials were developed.

It's extremely hard, heavy, has self-lubricating qualities, and is actually 'machinable' to fairly close tolerances.

When I was a young man I worked in a machine shop.. they still had some blocks of this wood on the back shelves that were leftovers from the old days.

A modern material that's replaced it is known as 'UHMW' or 'Hi-moly' (ultra-high molecular weight plastic). You can buy it from industrial supply houses. It's tough but easily worked, self-lubricating and machinable.

Comes in different grades from white (soft) up through green, brown and black (hardest).. (I hope I've got the order of color/hardness right)

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Bob Lewis

03-01-2001 14:54:25

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Re: Re: replacing wood bearings in cultipacker in reply to bbott, 03-01-2001 12:31:48

Being that there are no bearings remaining, does anyone know if these are made in one piece, or two pieces like a thread spool cut in half? Do they have a flange to keep them from pulling through? I'm not sure of what the bearings looked like when they were there. I used a set of cultipackers that belonged to someone else for a couple of years, but can't recall ever working on them or even giving them much notice. Thanks for the help so far, and in the future, you folks are a great help. BOB

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Charlie

03-01-2001 06:22:38

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Re: replacing wood bearings in cultipacker in reply to Bob Lewis, 02-28-2001 14:31:56

I made some from white oak for my horse drawn cultipacker. I decided to soak them in oil before I installed them - made the wood very soft. After I rolled a couple of acres they were gone. I think I'll try maple for the next set.

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Leroy

02-28-2001 18:47:35

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Re: replacing wood bearings in cultipacker in reply to Bob Lewis, 02-28-2001 14:31:56

Hard Maple is what the manufactor used

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F14

02-28-2001 14:43:20

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Re: replacing wood bearings in cultipacker in reply to Bob Lewis, 02-28-2001 14:31:56

I made a set out of (believe it or don't) plywood for an old disk harrow. If you use good marine grade plywood (no voids in the plys) and keep it greased up good, it'll work pretty slick. The idea of the plywood is that the plys are laid at right angles to each other, and it won't split, where hardwood may. This was done on the advice of a luxury yacht builder that has forgotten more about wood than I'm ever likely to know.

Are your bearings pressed in or held in place by a cap? If they're pressed in, I might put just a slight bevel on one end to avoid splintering, and drive 'em in with a block of wood.

If you don't like the plywood idea, white oak or ash will work too.

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John

03-01-2001 12:06:00

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Re: Re: replacing wood bearings in cultipacker in reply to F14, 02-28-2001 14:43:20

One Key to the whole mess is to use grease instead of oil. Grease will soak a bit into wood, but will probably not go all the way through.

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Dick Davis

03-03-2001 01:56:17

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Re: Re: Re: replacing wood bearings in cultipacker in reply to John, 03-01-2001 12:06:00

I recently replaced wood bearings on my three section cultipacker. When the local dealer wanted $18 each for 5 bearings I elected to make mine out of a scrap piece of laminated beam. It was about 2" thick so was a close match for size. I can't give you a wear report yet haven't used them much at all.

By way of clarification. The "bearing" is just a block of wood that the metal shaft rotates in. There is no other insert or roller or ball in these. Just wood to metal.

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