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Sickle bar bend woes part II

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John-Paul (Finl

07-26-2000 05:23:07

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Hi again everyone, and thanks very much for your help so far.

I really miss the old "new" board's way that live threads kept to the top of the page. Ahh well.

Tim W: Yes, thanks. I determined that the problem was probably in fact due to wear in the ball cups. I simply built the worn edges up with weld, and ground back the cup shape. Since then I haven't had problems with it until now. Ron is correct, there is a catch for the sickle. It's not missing, but somehow the sickle slipped over it. Perhaps I should make sure that the sickle is at its extreme outward position before raising it to the transport position. In any case I shall use Z-bar's suggestion and block the sickle with a piece of wood next time too.

Anyway, now for the question: Now that I have the bar more or less straight, will it make the reassembly any easier if I heat the rivets up before fitting them? I replaced a knife earlier this year and although I made a good repair, all that hammering isn't good for my tendonitis! Many thanks again,
J-P

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tim[in]

07-28-2000 06:22:42

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Re: Sickle bar bend woes part II in reply to John-Paul (Finland), 07-26-2000 05:23:07

i used what we call a rivet machine. it is a tool that holds the rivet and bar and section and you tighten it done with a wrench and it produces professional looking rivet repairs. i did the bolt and locknut treatment on my allis chalmers #72 pull type combine and love it!! will probably do the same to my sickle bar mower too !

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ltf in nc

07-26-2000 09:41:38

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Re: Sickle bar bend woes part II in reply to John-Paul (Finland), 07-26-2000 05:23:07

Replacement bolts and locknuts to eliminate the rivets are available from someone like Shoup, 145 S. West Ave., Kankakee, Il. 60901 USA or at 1-800-627-6137 for the price of US $6.00 for 25. It is necessary to change the hold down clips which sell for approximately US $2.25 each. This eliminates all the hammering and a broken knife can can changed readily in the field with only a couple of small wrenches. I have made the conversion and I find it most convenient.

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John-Paul (Finland Europe, not Finland Minnesota!)

07-26-2000 23:31:33

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Re: Re: Sickle bar bend woes part II in reply to ltf in nc, 07-26-2000 09:41:38

That sounds like an excellent idea ltf. There are times when I wish I lived somewhere where it was a bit easier to get stuff. It's hard even to find ordinary nuts and bolts in inch sizes here, and my local farm shop didn't have the right size rivets. One place (a specialist nut, bolt and fitting shop on an industrial estate) told me they could get steel rivets, but they would have to order them from Holland and would take two weeks! In the end I found them OK, but tracking things down takes time, diesel and patience...

Thanks anyway, at least knowing about other solutions that exist is a good starting point for developing "alternative fixes" of my own.

J-P

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ltf in nc

07-27-2000 12:32:59

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Re: Re: Re: Sickle bar bend woes part II in reply to John-Paul (Finland Europe, not Finland Minnesota!), 07-26-2000 23:31:33

I am aware where Finland is located and that is why I went to the effort to post the mailing address and why I gave the price with the US in front of the $ sign. With a little effort and a trip to your bank, I am sure that you could obtain the replacement fasteners. We need the export business with our deficit.

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John-Paul (You know where!)

07-28-2000 00:53:08

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Sickle bar bend woes part II in reply to ltf in nc, 07-27-2000 12:32:59

Thanks again ltf. For some bizarre reason it didn't occur to my dim brain that I could simply order from the address you gave. Perhaps I'm too stuck on fixing things the hard way!
Having just spent yesterday evening hammering rivets, I think it's time for me to get in touch with Shoup. Many thanks again for your excellent advice.

Regards

John-Paul

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Ron

07-26-2000 05:48:10

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Re: Sickle bar bend woes part II in reply to John-Paul (Finland), 07-26-2000 05:23:07

I'm not aware of anyone using heat on these rivets but that should work OK. Would it be any easier on your tendonitis to use a vise to compress the rivets. But I suppose if you are changing sections on an entire sickle at one time, then all that opening and closing of a vise would probably be just as bad as hammering for your tendonitis.

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John-Paul

07-26-2000 07:32:35

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Re: Re: Sickle bar bend woes part II in reply to Ron, 07-26-2000 05:48:10

Yyyeeeesss! Great idea to use a vice, thanks Ron!

J-P

PS. Hmm... why didn't I think of that?!

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Harold Hubbard

07-26-2000 20:51:48

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Re: Re: Re: Sickle bar bend woes part II in reply to John-Paul, 07-26-2000 07:32:35

I made a cup tool to go in my air chisel. My tendinitis doesn't like that either, but it sure is alot faster.

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