Need help with a NH 68 baler before I SET IT A FIRE

It sounds to me like it's out of time or the plunger stop is not working right. Also, there is a knotter disk brake up on the end of the knotter shaft. Sometimes the springs on that brake bust or get misadjusted. That brake is important. I fixed ours on our 68 about 1000 bales ago and it's not been a problem since.

I never had what you describe go on with our 68, except for the brake problem, but I had something like it go on with the NH66 that preceded it. Either knotter drive chain had broken or something and I had to retime it.

Good luck. Hope you whip it. Say hello to the New Holland dealer for me.

1. Dirty and/or binding knotters--clean and lube

2. Improper knotter brake adjustment- clean brake with brake cleaner and adjust, check to be sure pivot pins in brake linkage are'nt worn out.

3. Too much end play in knotter stack--add shims to remove excess end play.

4. Dull knives--sharpen and adjust

5. Worn knotter clutch gear-- check and replace as needed.

I don't know how much is too much wear on the knotter clutch. I have one here you can stick your index finger in the groove and it bales all day long with no problems. Also if the drive chains are loose any at all I would check my timing to be sure it did'nt jump a tooth.

Good luck and happy baling. B.C. is pretty sharp on these balers.

It could just be the bale density is set to tight and the knotters can't pull enough twine through to run a complete cycle.

The only other thing I've had to do that is the brass roller on the bill hook arm. If the brass had stuck and wears a flat spot on it when the knotters and needles get to that position it will knock out the shear bolts because the bill hooks can't open and spit out the knot.

Then maybe it will spin a little and not break them til it gets back to the worn spot again.

I would bet it's either the knotter brake or the bill hook arm brass rollers.

If it's breaking behind the knot that means the bill hook is'nt releasing the twine.

You don't want the needle to drag when it is placing the twine, but it has to touch the knotter frame really really lightly.

Then you should have about 1/8" clearance between the needles and the twine disc. The twine disc is where the end of the twine stays caught when the needles go back down.

Now bend the knife arm up til it just rubs ever so lightly on the back of the billhook as it spins around. Be sure it don't bind on the billhook just be sure it touches lightly and scrubbs the back.

Completely loosen the bale density adjustments at the rear of the bale chute. Run a few bales through the normal cycle without tension to be sure everything is adjusted right.

When you get that knotter adjusted out right you'll be a lot happier. I don't know if you can order a manual from I&T for the balers or not.

I've had both brands thru the years and I would'nt trade a wore out NH for a new JD for my own personal use. The JD is foreign made too and they still want about $4500 more than a new comparable NH is going for.

The thing that hurts JD around here is the p*** poor dealers we have in this area. They have a poor service dept and they don't stock many parts. Any part you want for the Deere has to be ordered and then you wait and wait, and then still pay $18.00 extra on each item for expedited service.