Seious Baler problems

It can do that for a dozen reasons. Like the man said I would turn it backwards by hand after I put the shearbolt back in and find what stopped the baler. You're not supposed to be able to turn the knotters by hand once they've loaded up to tie a bale.

When you're standing beside the baler looking at the knotters, the plunger safety is the funny looking gizmo that extends inwards toward the plunger. Right there in front of your knees. You bumped your knee on it's mechanism and cussed it when you checked the knotters.

When it's on there and working right it keeps the plunger from breaking the needles when the baler jumps time or you try to bale a fence post or tree limb. Unless you broke a drive chain you probly have'nt jumped time, it's probly the safety plunger. The wheel wears out or down and they have to be adjusted to clear the plunger as it comes over the needles.

New needles are $55 at New Holland, and they probly will take about 2 weeks to get you a manual.
If I can help with info or pictures from my manual just holler.

Be sure to keep the knotter greased, but don't over grease it so that grease is over run. Keep the roller you're talking about clean and I always just put a few drops of diesel on the shaft it runs on each morning so it will keep turning on the shaft. The flat spot was caused because somebody did'nt do that, and it froze up.

If you can wash the knotters out every day or 2, or blow them out with air is better they last a long, long time.

At the end of each season I mix up some 50/50 diesel and burnt motor oil and spray down my 67 after I wash and grease it. When you grease it put a little oil or just a little grease in the plunger run and keep the plunger adjusted right it will do alots better.

You don't want to take the plunger rod loose, you just roll it backward into the farthest position of the stroke.

You can lay down and go into the back end of the plunger from the bale chute at the rear of the baler. In other words crawl up into the baler through the hole the bale uses for and exit.

I think the roller lock nuts are 11/16" on the roller studs, you'll need 2 wrenches, one to hold the stud and one to break the lockdown nut loose with. Loosen these and lift the plunger with a crowbar, while it's lifted up, just let the roller wheel move down solid and tighten it back down, one roller is on each rear corner of the plunger.

That done just go up and get under the baler chamber from the front. You can reach up thought the plunger rod opening and adjust the front ones the same way. You have just adjusted the up and down motion of the plunger.

To adjust the side to side movement of the plunger, go to the left side of the baler and stand looking at the bale chamber external side of the baler, you'll see 2 of the square headed 5/16" threaded adjustment screws, one at each external end of the bale chamber one at the top and one at the bottom. There are 4 adjustment bolts altogether.

Break the locknut loose and adjust the bolt inwards til it is snug. Don't over tighten it. Now back it off 1/2 turn and lock it down with the nut again. Do all four of the bolts like that and now you have all the loose motion adjusted out of the plunger.

Turn the baler a couple of complete turns to be sure it is'nt adjusted too tight before you put the pto power to it.

If I'm not clear or have confused you just holler, and we'll try again. My email addy is on this post.

Get the manual. Timing is very important with the chains, or you will break something.

--->Paul

Thanks for straightening out my info. :)

--->Paul

Unless you can find and old print shop manual NH does'nt have a owners manual that covers any breakdown symtom, just break down repairs.