proper plowing

I'm not sure on a three point hitch but I don't think you want the top link to hold the plow in the ground , I know on a semi-mount and pull type you don't use the top link so I would venture a guess that it's not needed on a three point setup either . It's just used to lift the plow for transport and should ride loosely when plowing . I use and own only pull types and semi-mounts myself . If the front of the tractor rides high it'll push the plow deeper causing a chain reaction . On a semi-mount the top link is used only as a safety device to keep the tractor from going over backwards in those rare cases that traction overcomes gravity .

Another thing to check is the distance to furrow edge from center line of pull of the tractor and the plow . I can't see getting this right with a three bottom on that large of a tractor with a TPH setup . I really couldn't do it right with my three bottom pull type behind my Oliver 1755 without setting the wheels in so tight that I would have had to remove my fenders . The center line of pull for a 16" plow is 28 inches from the furrow wall so the inside of the right rear tire on the tractor should be set no closer to the center of the tractor than that plus I add about 1/2 an inch or so to account for sidewall flex and for a small amount of room to wander . If the 4020 tires can be moved in that close then you're good to go from that standpoint . For a 14" plow it's 24-1/2" from the furrow wall for a 18" it's 31-1/2" and for a 20" it's 35" . Double these numbers to get tire setting between tires . There's a lot to know about plowing correctly and I'm still learning a little more each time I do it . Good luck ! ...Randy

I feel kind of stupid informing you of some of my plow ideas as you have such a large tractor, with that hp about 90+ i guess you could pull the 3 MF plow set backwards if you wanted too.

The reason most turning plows are so cheap is because not many farmers use them anymore, they either no-till or use chisel plows. I like chisel plows as they leave the land level, no plow furrows.

Might check into one if it comes along, takes about 10 hp per chisel, so you could pull a 7 or 9 depending on how heavy the machine.

Good luck.

However, just as with different trucks, cars, tractors, etc: some plows will work smoother than others.
What tractor and plow comb do you have?

Another factor that is often missed is right side wheel spacing. You can not have the front tire adjusted out farther from center line of tractor than the back tire. If so and you try to keep the front tire aganist the furrow your tractor will be running at an angle to the plowed furrow all the time. I know this sounds wild, but take a long straight 2x4 and place it up aganist the inside of the right side back tire, if there is a space between the front tire and the 2x4 your front tire is spaced too far out, bring it in so it is equal to or closer to center line of tractor than back tire.
Believe me this will help you as you try to plow.

The three plows, if set right will follow the tractor almost like a trailer. Both lower arm chains will be loose and the plow will follow straight behind tractor.

May take you a while to get to that point and just plowing small plots, you may never get there. It takes a while for the plows the clean themself's if they have rust, will plow better when they have a high shine.

also if you do get it right and all is good with the world, write down the some basic numbers. Length of top arm, height off ground of left bottow arm and right bottom arm. So next time you hookup to plow you will have everything set and you can enjoy the experience.

Good luck, as you see I enjoy plowing

I have a TO-35 Ferguson with factory 3-12" plows and they do smooth level work.