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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

haybine sickle

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mgm

03-14-2008 05:36:32




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What is the best wayto change out section on a sickle on a ng 489 haybine




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Eric SEI

03-15-2008 12:07:47




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 Re: haybine sickle in reply to mgm, 03-14-2008 05:36:32  
On the replacement bolts that I have seen, you also have to replace the pieces that stick out over the rivet to hold the bar down. The new ones provide extra clearance because the bolt and nut stick up higher that the rivet.

They should be available the same place you get the bolts.



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Texasmark

03-15-2008 16:50:07




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 Re: haybine sickle in reply to Eric SEI, 03-15-2008 12:07:47  
I probably have all after market "hootus's" you are talking about as none interfere with the bolt/nuts. I don't remember which way I put them in (would have to look) but there is a little more clearance on one side vs the other and the nut side sticks up a tad more than the head of the bolt.

But is surely is something to watch for.

Mark



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Texasmark

03-15-2008 07:01:08




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 Re: haybine sickle in reply to mgm, 03-14-2008 05:36:32  
There is a new mouse trap out (new to me) that consists of a stud and a nut. Instead of having to smash the rivet in the field, which is very awkward as anyone knows who have had to do it.....and duck the fire ants in the process. You remove the rivet in the normal manner and install the stud and self locking nut.

Last couple of sickle bars I bought at the JD house could have been purchased either way, so the practice is good enough for mother deere to sell new sickles with no rivets.

Tractor supply may have them or other type farm implement parts store. Maybe JD has them....I bought mine from a local farm store....Gebo's.
Can't tell the difference in operation from a rivet.

And I have one of the tools mentioned; one end pushes out the old rivet and the other smashes the new one...costs about $100. Bolt-nut works better.

Mark

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johns48jdb

03-15-2008 03:56:11




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 Re: haybine sickle in reply to mgm, 03-14-2008 05:36:32  
i had a section out once and the guy working for me was working on it. the mo/co leaked down and i told him i was going to rasie the header up. he said let me get my feet out from under here, i gave him time to get up. turned out the hudraulics wasn"t leaking down but the weld joint on the machine was broke and slowly breaking off. the second i picked up on it the weld joint broke and the header came crashng down. we never got under one of them again without a 6 x 6 under each end of the header. take an old fan belt and make handles from it by cutting to length and nailing to the 6 x 6 with 2 1/2 inch long roofing tacks. make a place to keep them on the machine. the handles make it ease to pick up or drag around. rather than think how am i going to fix this, think how am i safely going to fix this.

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flying belgian

03-14-2008 17:25:44




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 Re: haybine sickle in reply to mgm, 03-14-2008 05:36:32  
Take a hammer and chissel and whack the rivet heads off. then take a punch and drive the rivets out. then new rivets and section and flatten them with a hammer with anvil underneth. Oh you have to take that gaurd off 1st. then bolt the gaurd back on and in 15 minutes you are back going round and round.



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johns48jdb

03-17-2008 14:29:03




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 Re: haybine sickle in reply to flying belgian, 03-14-2008 17:25:44  
hey flyer, i use to do that to until i got tired of removing the guards. i took an old axle out of a mo/co and took a torch an whittled it down to a point much like on a punch. that end was just small enough to fit up in the holes around the guards. then i drilled a small dinple in the end of the axle to hold against the under side head of the rivet. the axle end was prettu heavy and if you laid your arm across your leg it would help hold the anvil in place while you proceeded to knock the hide off of your hand on a pick up reel tooth while your trying to hit the rivet. you can buy the tool evrybody keeps talking about from jd.

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backwoodsfarm

03-14-2008 05:53:48




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 Re: haybine sickle in reply to mgm, 03-14-2008 05:36:32  
Well the best way is to buy the bolt on knife assembly so when a knife breaks you can take out the bolts, change the section and bolt back on. For rivets, I believe there is a tool available to remove and install rivets in the field. Maybe New Holland has them or Shouppe. Or, you can do it the old fashioned way and take the whole bar off, go back to the shop and do it that way. I USED to have two extra knife assemblies as spares so if a knife broke, I would just change out the whole assembly and fix the broken knife later. Now with the bolt on assembly, I haven"t had to do that for a few years. Good luck.

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