jd 1209 conditioner

Thanks,

Mark

I have replaced most of the backing plates and even though my owners manual doesn't show it I added them to all the positions, rather than leave the first 2 or 3 without. As I said, I think this is part of my problem; when the pitman comes forward the bar wants to move to the rear and this could be part of the stress causing the break. Now they will hit the backing plate and should be better in alignment to go straight. Just seems like I will be replacing the first ones often if what I suspect is true which means they will take a beating.

Thanks,

Mark

Mark

Help me understand what you said here. It may be significant. What do you mean with the positions you mentioned.

Thanks,

Mark

I replaced the pin this year too. Had a groove worn in the pitman arm that made installing the new one pretty tough.

Thinking about that, it could be my problem. The Pitman arm has a groove worn in it by the old pin which could possibly be a source for endplay. If my current brainstorm doesn't work, I may get another arm.

I can understand the hammering effect of the pitman. Have no idea how many strokes per minute that sickle gets at PTO rpm, but it's gotta be a lot and all that changing direction in an instant can easily work harden steel and cause this failure.

I saw a dump truck-pup interconnect once that just sheared (like you cut butter with a knife) right at the bolt that went thru the rear of the truck for attachment. The tongue of the pup is loose and over time with it banging on the pintle it finally work hardened it and it metallurgically disintegrated. Thank goodness for the husky safety chains.

As I said, slowing down my PTO will help too.

One of my problems nowadays is I don't get around like I used to and it is tough for me to get under this guy and do any kind of work and being a lone operator, if I don't do it it doesn't get done.

Thanks,

Mark

Mark

I discussed it with the local JD 1209 know it all and he said the same thing about pitman arm slack. I broke 2 new JD bars ($185 ea) last year and didn"t do but 100 big rolls and couple hundred squares in haygrazer that was cut before the prime (boot); stems half the diameter or less of a wood pencil.

I spent a lot of time trying to figure mine out. I have some play in the pitman but it is so small it is the difference between none and yeah I think I feel something.

One thing I did notice was my thrust plates were missing on the first few guides which would allow the thrust of the pitman to attempt to push the end of the bar toward the rear of the slot rather than down the slot. So I replaced them and after the bar was installed pushed them up to the back of the bar where they touched. This may help.

I have the user's manual on it and it shows pictures of how your supports are supposed to be. Har Har. The pic and the real world are day and night. My guides (cast iron part) aren't worn too much, but the slot where the bar goes has some room for the bar to move around. I use some JD parts and some aftermarket. Doesn't seem to matter.

Haven"t tried it yet.

Other thing is I seem to always be in a hurry to get her done and I may load up the bar too much. So this year I am going to slow down and not run full PTO speed, like 90% of it. We"ll see what happens.

HTH

Mark

Mark

What does this mean?

Nothing that drives the sickle can have any wear in it or play. It has to be tight. No loose bearings or wore out pins and bolts.

Also how tight is the sickle in the guards, they aren"t all bent up, are they?

Gary