I haven't used the Bush Hog in over a year and the PTO driveshaft is jammed tight and won't slip lengthwise (the length adjustment sleeve). I am sure its just rust but before I destroy it with brute force and penetrating oil, I was wondering if there was an easier way? I appreciate any suggestions.

Be careful that it is actually rust and not gauling. If the shaft has been run without grease for too long, the metal-on-metal friction will actually start to fuse the 2 halves of the shaft together. My dad had this happen on his mower shaft this spring. He was lucky that he caught it before it caused any damage to the tractor. I have heard stories of people ripping PTO shafts out of the back of the tractors. Good luck.

guys, guys i buy you'll books and send you to school and it doesn't help. always remove the shaft and put it in the dry. that way you save all this trouble and it saves the one u joint at least from the weather. nobody can steal it and sell it for drug money either.

Sometimes, its not rust. Sometimes when the shaft is a bit long it gets the end of the inner shaft peened from hitting the end when closed while turning corners (accompanied by a banging sound).

I use the sturdy post, a couple chains, and a tractor to pull mine apart.

Gerald J.

I usually remove the shaft and chain between 2 trees with a comealong.. soak it good thru both ends with penetrating oil or atf mixed with a solvent of choice ( kerosene, deisel, mineral spirits ).. and then get a punch, and try to tap on the leading edge of the outter sleave ( slide back the plastic covers ). Once you get it moving by tapping, retensio and keep going.. once it breaks free, slide them apart, and sand smooth the inner shaft, and then i like to wad up some metal pot scrubbies and then wet down an old rag with oil, shove it in the tube, and then the pot scrubbie, and then force it thru a few times with a rod. Then pour some oil down the ID, or shoot a few shots of grease in there, then grease up the inner shaft and slid ethem back together.. should be good to go.

On some of my shafts there is a grease zerk on the outside of the outter shaft, and a coresponding hole inthe plastic sheath.. line em up and lets you grease to the inside of the shaft periodically.

if you can.. chain them up so you aren't pulling thru the u-joint.. etc..

Soundguy

I find that pulling on it with one hand and giving the yolk a few good cracks with a hammer while you're pulling generally knocks them apart. If it's tougher than that I hook a chain on the shaft and hook it to a tractor and tension it up. Work it over with the hammer again. If that doesn't work, more tension, more hammer... and if that still doesn't work the flame wrench on the tube will help. Get it hot to break the rust and it generally gives. This depends on whether it's a metric shaft of a standard square shaft. Metric shafts are worse to stick, but heat genreally gets them loose.

Rod

Its surprising how a PTO shaft will rust in just a half a year of sitting. I have the problem with an old PTO driven sickle mower. I have a large pry bar that I slam aginst the lip of the outer casing and it usually comes, then I squirt oil all over it and its OK until the next spring. If your shaft has been slightly bent it will take more brute force to move it free.

Its surprising how a PTO shaft will rust in just a half a year of sitting. I have the problem with an old PTO driven sickle mower. I have a large pry bar that I slam aginst the lip of the outer casing and it usually comes, then I squirt oil all over it and its OK until the next spring. If your shaft has been slightly bent it will take more brute force to move it free.