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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Rebuilding a 3 point sprayer

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Illinois Farmal

08-09-2007 13:37:04




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My neighbor just gave me a 3 point sprayer that has seen alot better days. The 200 gallon fiberglas tank is cracked in several places, the pump is frozen and the booms are bent. I know the tank is an easy fix with a new one, the pump can probably be broken loose or replaced. From the best I can tell I can replace/repair the existing components cheaper than I can buy a new sprayer. The booms are made from 3/4 galvanized pipe and are bent up pretty bad. My main question is what determines the nozzle spacing on the booms? I'm not sure what type of nozzles are on it at the moment as I haven't looked at it in great detail yet. I can easily enough drill and tap new pipe for nozzles. Any thoughts? Thanks

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James22

08-11-2007 09:39:28




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 Re: Rebuilding a 3 point sprayer in reply to Illinois Farmall, 08-09-2007 13:37:04  
I've seen 100-200 gallon 3pt sprayers with a good tank and booms sell at auction for $25. If it has a roller pump attached it might cost a few more bucks. A centrifugal pump can be worth quite a bit more, and probably would be sold separate. Those whom did buy them, usually discarded the booms and hooked up a hand wand for spraying fence rows. However this is also becoming passe, because most now use an ATV with a rear rack sprayer. This one looks too much like a money pit, unless you have a source for cheap used parts. I would take the old 180 degree approach. Look for a better used sprayer, hopefully with a poly tank, and utilize this one as a donor.

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GeneMO

08-09-2007 20:11:00




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 Re: Rebuilding a 3 point sprayer in reply to Illinois Farmall, 08-09-2007 13:37:04  
The most simple way to build a sprayer boom is to go to your local farm and home. Here in Mo it is Orschlens or Tractor supply. The pipe boom is just the "hanger" for the sprayer body assembly. You can buy clamps that work on round or square tubing. You space these out at whatever spacing you need, clamp them on to the pipe or tubing, then a plastic assembly goes through the hole provided. You connect the assemblies with rubber hose or anhydrous hose. The pipe only carries the parts. No liquid goes through the pipe itself. This again is the simpliest type, dont want to get too long here and go into others.

Nozzle spacing is dependant on what you are doing. They used to have flood jet nozzles that covered 40". There are "even" flow nozzles that make a distinct, even edge for outside nozzles. For just everyday spraying of pastures etc, 20" spacing is common. Look to some university web sites, they will have charts and formulas for calibrating sprayers. I am doing this by memory, The formula I think was :

spacing in inches X GPA X MPH ----- ----- ----- ----- ----- = OZ/tip/minute 5940

It was something along that line. If you knew how may GPA (gallons per acre) you needed and your miles per hour, Then you could bring your rig up to the RPM that you ran to get the correct miles per hour, catch the spray that came out of one nozzle in a timed minute and you had it. If you had too little spray coming out in the minute,then increase the pressure. Really pretty simple once you got on to it. Of course it is all done by computers now.

To check your Miles per hour on an old tractor. Drive down through the same field conditions with the same implement in the ground. When up to speed, look at your watch. When the second hand gets to 12, or wherever you want to start, Throw off a wrench or hammer or something you can find. Drive for 1 minute. Throw off another marker. Shut her down, then step off the feet you traveled in one minute. Divide by 88 and you have miles per hour. Probably more accurate than the new digital spedo's


Gene

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IaGary

08-09-2007 16:59:47




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 Re: Rebuilding a 3 point sprayer in reply to Illinois Farmall, 08-09-2007 13:37:04  
You may be able to replace parts and be cheaper than new but----

What if you bought a used working sprayer?

That boom setup is problems forever. Using steel pipe to carry the spray always causes rust. Rust will plug the nozzles.

Newer sprayers have a boom frame and tie rubber hose to it to carry the spray.

Look around a little before you spend to much on a tank,pump and rebuild that boom.

Just my thoughts, Gary

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paul

08-09-2007 16:56:39




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 Re: Rebuilding a 3 point sprayer in reply to Illinois Farmall, 08-09-2007 13:37:04  
The pipe should just be the frame. Don't bother trying to put herbicides inside the pipe any more. With AMS & roundup & some of the others, galvanized steel is a bad choice for running spray.

Get yourself some rubber sprayer hose & plastic fittings. Clamp them onto the pipe.

Common spacing is 20 inches, but it will depend on the tips you choose, could be different.

--->Paul



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Illinois Farmall

08-09-2007 17:09:06




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 Re: Rebuilding a 3 point sprayer in reply to paul, 08-09-2007 16:56:39  
Thanks for the info....using the pipe for just a frame will save me tons of time drilling and tapping all of those holes. I was just going by what was originally there as a guide. I already have a tank and tons of 3/4" pipe laying around. My next big issue will be if the pump is salvageable and if not I've already priced out a new one. Thanks again for all the info!



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Bob

08-09-2007 14:06:44




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 Re: Rebuilding a 3 point sprayer in reply to Illinois Farmall, 08-09-2007 13:37:04  
Find the "TeeJet" website.

They have all sorts of charts as to what nozzles to use for your intended application rate, and boom height, and what the spacing needs to be for the correct "overlap"..



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