John Deere # 5 price?

The first #5 we had was really old (2-piece cast wheel) with a 7ft bar. Our current #5 is newer, with a 6ft highway bar. We also have the majority of a very different #5 which came out immediately after the original power mower for the GP and before the design of #5 that everyone is familiar with.

I was lucky enough to also pick up proper factory made mounts for the H, as well as foot lift assembly and the adjustable support which goes from the Rt axle housing to the #5 flat mount bar. The bar makes a big difference in supporting the rt side of the mower, especially when the cutter bar is in the raised position. The H handled the 7ft cutter bar with no problems, even in heavy hay. If you do pick up the #5, I would be glad to send you pictures and dimensions for these H mounting components. Email meif interested.

Looking at the #5 Ops Manual, pg 69, it looks like the H drawbar and supports are hi-lited to indicate they are special or modified. Perhaps it is just the support rods which go from axle housing down on an angle. I'm not familiar enough with the H to really know.

BUT, if it were me, I would block up the mower to specified height, back tractor up, and figure out how to make it work. If it is really that much too high (19-20") you could fabricate some heavy brackets or straps which bolt onto the top of the mower flat bar and then bolt onto top of tractor drawbar. If necessary, make the portion bolting onto the mower twice as thick, with the extra thickness below the bracket and on top of the mower flatbar. This will drop the mower by a measurement equal to the combined thicknesses of the tractor drawbar, the bracket, and the extra spacer. Make the brackets so each has two bolts going into the mower flatbar. (Or should also work with 2 going into the tractor drawbar). I used this idea to mount the flatbar to my 8N 3PH cross drawbar, only had one hole at each end of the bracket, and had real problems keeping the mower in position and sufficient lead on the cutterbar.

Regarding wheel position, I never have adjusted the tractor wheels to fit the mower. Probably couldn't even if I wanted because the JD H and A are both seized onto the splines. You just need to mount the mower so that the inner shoe on the cutterbar is outside of the RH rear wheel. Otherwise the tractor wheel will flatten hay that the mower won't be able to cut. Just my thoughts!!

Sorry I couldn't be of more help

I agree that $200 or less for a �working� mower would be a good offer.

I paid $100 for a parts mower just to get the Quik-Tatch hitch and yoke.

Parts are somewhat plentiful on eBay and other sources.

A lot of work to �spruce� one up, but it sure looks nice after it is done.

It will do you a good job behind your H.

Hope this helps and good luck.

I have a #5 sickle bar mower on my 40 H. Sweet little rig. You need to add about 200 pounds of weight on the nose of the tractor for good control. Mine is mounted with the quick-tach. I had to alter the tractor side mountings (angle irons with the 1 3/4" pins) by welding a piece of 2" angle on the inside of each mounting which could be bolted to the side of the H draw bar frame. I also built a bolt on live high pressure hydraulic system and put on the tractor for lifting the mower, splitting wood and other stuff I wanted hydraulics for. Sadly I don't get much time to use it anymore. I'm thinking about selling it and other Deeres I have.