Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Hayliner 69 Help

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
IA Tim

07-18-2007 06:50:50




Report to Moderator

I replaced the main drive chain on the NH 68 baler; put everything (needles and tines) in time according to the manual as I was running into the needle saftey device after installing the chain ( I had sheared the needle drive wheel bolt too). Anyway, the baler will bale 5 bales and then shear the main drive bolt. I can't tell where it is happening because as soon as I replace the shear bolt and rotate everything by hand it doesn't hang up. I'm at wits end with this and sure could use some suggestions!

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
Eugene SWIA

07-19-2007 03:32:45




Report to Moderator
 Re: Hayliner 69 Help in reply to IA Tim, 07-18-2007 06:50:50  
Check the manual or parts book. You need the proper amount of chain links to keep it in time. IMPORTANT!!!!! Gene



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
sid

07-18-2007 16:01:45




Report to Moderator
 Re: Hayliner 69 Help in reply to IA Tim, 07-18-2007 06:50:50  
"I think it is the plunger hitting the needle "saver."" If you are It should be out when You check it after shearing the pin. Besides the things already mentioned, check the overall condition of baler. Look for broken welds or loose bolts that is letting every thing turn by hand but gives when under working stress. My main suspect is the needles are not going all the way home. Check all the linkage for sloppiness as well as where the needles are anchored. I had an old baler one time that had a crack in the chamber that would flex enough to get things out of whack enough to throw the safety dog and stop the plunger. I really think the things the other guys mentioned is what you will find. My suggestion are for if all else fails.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Gene-WI

07-18-2007 14:19:24




Report to Moderator
 Re: Hayliner 69 Help in reply to IA Tim, 07-18-2007 06:50:50  
The only thing that would make the needle safety device engauge would be the needles being in the bale chamber when they shouldn't be, check your brake on the knotter drive to be sure the needles are being held in the home position.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
GregC

07-18-2007 11:17:52




Report to Moderator
 Re: Hayliner 69 Help in reply to IA Tim, 07-18-2007 06:50:50  
Actually, chain length will make a difference. Most likely the new chain is shorter because the old chain has stretched. Almost all chains will stretch slightly with use. You may have to play with the timing, advance or retard, a little to get it to work just right.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
GregC

07-18-2007 07:48:49




Report to Moderator
 Re: Hayliner 69 Help in reply to IA Tim, 07-18-2007 06:50:50  
Before you replace the shear bolt, is there anything that looks to be wrong? How many bales did you put through it after replacing the chain before the problems arose?
Could be that the chain has stretched enough to thhrow your timing off slightly. What kind of shape are the sprockets in? I"d retime the whole machine and go from there.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
IA Tim

07-18-2007 08:55:13




Report to Moderator
 Re: Hayliner 69 Help in reply to GregC, 07-18-2007 07:48:49  
The funny thing is the new chain is slightly shorter than the old chain, could that be the issue? I wouldn't think chain length would make a difference. The weird thing is if I hand turn the baler through 2 cycles it is still in time. Maybe it is chain length that is messing me up.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Our Farmer

07-18-2007 10:37:03




Report to Moderator
 Re: Hayliner 69 Help in reply to IA Tim, 07-18-2007 08:55:13  
Could be that the old chain was stretched out. I'd go back and start from the beginning with re timing too.
Are you packing those five bales too tight? Hearing any real loud bangs or such?



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
IA Tim

07-18-2007 11:11:37




Report to Moderator
 Re: Hayliner 69 Help in reply to Our Farmer, 07-18-2007 10:37:03  
Yes, there is a loud bang and I think it is the plunger hitting the needle "saver." I've timed that thing several times and it works great for the first 5 bales and then "bang" it shears and sounds like it is hitting something.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
IA Tim

07-18-2007 06:51:24




Report to Moderator
 Re: Hayliner 69 Help in reply to IA Tim, 07-18-2007 06:50:50  
Ooops, the title should read Hayliner 68 Help



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Rexalot

07-19-2007 04:44:56




Report to Moderator
 Re: Hayliner 69 Help in reply to IA Tim, 07-18-2007 06:51:24  
If you've replaced the chain on the left side between the plunger drive and the knotters, then it's your knotters that are out of time with the rest of the baler if the plunger is striking the plunger stop.

How much shorter is the new chain? More than a few links? I suppose it could be due to length of the chain, but with the amount of adjustment in the tensioner you could probably be 2 maybe 3 links short and be ok. I wouldn't want to be anymore than a couple myself, as long as you can apply the correct tension. The chain should deflect 1/2" when pressed at the longest span. You don't need to stretch it taught, just use common sense. If you need more links, just get the "repair" links from NH and add them in.

If you have the manual then I suggest you start at step one and "re-time" the entire baler. If not, then here's the quick version.

Set the plunger in it's position with the crank vertical between it's timing marks (left side on top of the frame surrounding the cutout). Then with the needles in the "home" position (all the way back, make sure thay aren't drifting out of "home". If they are you will need to correct this first.) check to see if the horizontal lines across the knotter clutch/drive align within 1/4". If not, remove the drive chain and turn the clutch until they do. Put the chain back on, trying not to move the clutch when you tension it.

Now that you have checked these items, might as well check to see that the feeder tines are in time to. From the back of the baler, to the right of the knotter brake open the access panel and look at the position of the tine bar. The point that it connects to the drive chain should be between to vertical notches cut in the frame. If these aren't visable, the point is about 4 inches from the leftside of the cutout for the door.

I would also make sure that the plunger stop moves freely. Disconnect it from the needles and move it. It should be faired (the flat side) with the left side of the bale chamber when needles are "home". Adjustment is obvious.

Once done, run it by hand a couple times tripping the knotters making sure that the horizontal lines on the knotter drive clutch return to within 1/4" of eachother after each tying cycle.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy